boring build

[justinhw]

pulled the calipers - were frozen - tried to get the piston out with compressed air - ended up using a wrench to turn the piston to get it free. It was very pitted, tried to find a rebuild kit with a new piston but the parts store around me doesn't have that anymore so I have to get new calipers

[justinhw]

Rebuilt a weber with rocketman's carb adapter - ready to go

Used 122/130 pri/sec jets because that's all I had - idles are 50/55, we will see how that goes

[justinhw]

Also started to rebuild the front hubs

[justinhw]

[justinhw]

getting more done - carb is on the car, running but no throttle cable yet
suspension is in - new struts, LCA

putting the interior back in






Unfortunately it rained and i found i have a leak behind the dash on the driver's side.... after i just put the dash back in... sigh..

[justinhw]

Took all the excessive vaccum lines and things out from under the intake manifold

[chrisofna]

Car is looking great, keep it up!

[justinhw]

weber idles well - runs well on main jets but there is a little stumble on the transition circuit - i got a haynes weber manual since there isn't very good info that i found online for the transitional circuit tuning for webers.

[justinhw]

turns out the haynes "technical book" manual is garbage - no info on tuning beyond basics. lookin' for another

in the mean time, got new speakers in - rockford fosgate R14x2 - they look great, don't stick out and i can keep my grill on. just cut the wires from my old speakers and soldered them on - made sure to keep the polarity the same but luckily it is labeled because i didn't pay attention when i cut the wires the first time







Now just waiting on the headunit!

[ricko1966]

weber idles well - runs well on main jets but there is a little stumble on the transition circuit - i got a haynes weber manual since there isn't very good info that i found online for the transitional circuit tuning for webers.

Too small of idle jets will make the 32/36 stumble. If you are using the throttle stop screw to adjust idle that is the problem. When you turn the throttle stop screw in it uncovers the transition ports in the carb using the transition fuel to idle.I do not remember the exact spec on the throttle stop screw but it was like touching plus 1/4 turn.

[justinhw]

Thanks - I increased the mixture on the idle circuit an 1/8 turn and seemed to help - still testing.

washed, waxed:


adjusted valves:


there's a bunch of tar and junk in the cylinder head - is it worthwhile to clean out?

[Rick the Quick]

It doesn't look too bad. I would keep the oil change intervals @ 2,000 miles and use a good grade of oil and a good filter such as Mazda or Wix. Take some long rides at high speeds. In my opinion you can do more harm then good trying to clean that gunk. When you dislodge a big chunk and it gets away from you it can do damage before it eventually ends up in the filter or pick up screen on the pump. Of course if you overhaul the engine that is a different story. I see you are in Wisconsin. Make sure you are using a good thermostat. Short trips and low engine temperatures are the biggest causes of sludge. Also I would add to the list not changing your oil and filter and neglecting the pcv system.

[justinhw]

Well I blew a HG so tore into the thing.

Head is off, it's over at the machine shop to get checked. Waiting on parts in the mail - rockauto had a gasket set and ring set from "ITM engine components." Hoping it's worthwhile.

[justinhw]

Question - what's this black box on the distributor?



Is something supposed to be connected to it? On the wires that come from the distributor there is one that is stripped and not connected to anything

[justinhw]

Compression numbers were:

Piston 1: 95psi
Piston 2: 105psi
Piston 3: 110psi
Piston 4: 105psi