It did run a high 16 once with 13's, the back and pass seats out, 2.5" exhaust, and an airbox mod.
I just couldn't get hardly any traction off the line with 12s.
J
"Superduder may or may not be a racist ..." -Pu241
It did run a high 16 once with 13's, the back and pass seats out, 2.5" exhaust, and an airbox mod.
I just couldn't get hardly any traction off the line with 12s.
J
Thats what I have done except the Pass seat. I don't have traction issues at all, so I really don't see why a 16.5 is that unbelivable.
^^I don't think they are friend.
I remember a conversation where he could not afford forged items, as they were significantly more in cost than stock replacements- and he was on a time restraint.
This was the reason why he backed off the boost from 9PSI to 6.
Sorry
only 9lbs? 6? i ran 10 on my dd with no problems whatsoever. any engine should hold at least 15psi. boost doesn't kill engines, inadequate fuel supply, heat management and timing control do.
any engine should hold at least 15psi. boost doesn't kill engines, inadequate fuel supply, heat management and timing control do.
are you serious??? there are LOTs of cars that cant gold any more then 5-7PSI, while some of them can its not the most reliable thing ever on stock internals
lots of 240/altima guys run KA-T's granted they will take boost a lot of the time, but theres also a decent # of people (including Greg/AZHitman, owner of NICO) that even after having pleanty of fuel and tuning the first time i he really got into his KA-T on the street with stock internals killed a ring land.
a lot of people turbo the honda F-series accords considering that a DSM manifold will bolt on with only reaming 1 or 2 holes and even lines up perfectly on the head, but only run around (i say around considering it depends on what size turbo you are running) 7PSI because even with the fuel the internals, namely the paper thin rods cant take more then that, some people run more but you are playing with fire at that point, a friend of mine blew his turbo F22 accord only 2 month after doing it, even had a fresh STOCK rebuild (foolish), he was running 12PSI with a 1G DSM turbo, and was fully tuned on the dyno
3G DSM owners who have the 3.0L V6 engines cant run any more then about 6PSI (again depends on what size turbo you are running) on the engines as well because the stock internals are so weak.
all these are just the tip of the iceberg
and 15PSI is a very general statement, 15PSI on what size turbo? T25? T28? T3/T4? a T04E? a little Schwitzer? 15 PSI on all of those turbos is not the same amount of power.
and yes boost even with the proper amount of fuel and heat control, CAN kill engines
not trying to be a jerk, just my 2c
88 Celica GT: RIP
93 Escort LX: RIP
02 ZX2: RIP
89 Festiva: teh sechs!!
93 240SX SE Coupe: eventually ill be done modding it......
Regarding my prior statement- I feel that in some conversation my expertise isn't as much as I would like.
While I agree on both counts, (big boost can or cannot kill an engine), I feel that engine QUALITY and / or BUILD should also be taken into consideration.
For example, it has been proven time and time again that RB (Skyline), SR (Silvia), EJ (Subaru), 1J and 2J (Supra) engines are incredibly strong, very well engineered and built as standard, and as such can handle massive power and strain increases with only minor tuning and a heckload of boost and fuel.
However the humble B3 (and B5 for that matter), in my opinion, do not fit that category and therefore require much more thought, tuning and expertise to acheive substantial results.
I mean not to rock the boat here, and completely understand this world we live in consists of many different minds, who at some times work in completely different ways.
I say this because while some may not agree- the green festy on the prior page was very well tuned (to my knowledge) yet could not cope with higher boost. If the car had (possibly) been of better condition BEFORE the turbo conversion, perhaps it may have lasted longer??
I also understand had the turbo been (for example) same as ours (GT30) the boost would not have been set as high, due to obvious size / displacement increases- so for arguments sake the turbo in question here is a Garrett T25- [240SX (S14 silvia in oz)]
I guess we could spend all day discussing the ins and outs of tuning, but either way- it looked the goods and still went like a rocket (from the owners' words) with mild boost.
there was a guy once on here that claimed to have built the ultimate B3... had a gold car, but that is all I'm saying...
89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit
we don't really speak of him anymore around here. I was tired last night and let that slip, lol.
89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit
are you serious??? there are LOTs of cars that cant gold any more then 5-7PSI, while some of them can its not the most reliable thing ever on stock internals
Well there you go! Mazda B-series engines apparently do rock harder than most other engines! :mrgreen:Lol.
of 240/altima guys run KA-T's granted they will take boost a lot of the time, but theres also a decent # of people (including Greg/AZHitman, owner of NICO) that even after having pleanty of fuel and tuning the first time i he really got into his KA-T on the street with stock internals killed a ring land.
A broken ring land, or any piston damage is the result of detonation- signs that you are A: running too lean and/or B: ignition timing too advanced.
lot of people turbo the honda F-series accords considering that a DSM manifold will bolt on with only reaming 1 or 2 holes and even lines up perfectly on the head, but only run around (i say around considering it depends on what size turbo you are running) 7PSI because even with the fuel the internals, namely the paper thin rods cant take more then that, some people run more but you are playing with fire at that point, a friend of mine blew his turbo F22 accord only 2 month after doing it, even had a fresh STOCK rebuild (foolish), he was running 12PSI with a 1G DSM turbo, and was fully tuned on the dyno
I'm sorry about your friends car. Honda should have made more adequate (not "paper thin") rods. I have seen n/a engines bend rods.
DSM owners who have the 3.0L V6 engines cant run any more then about 6PSI (again depends on what size turbo you are running) on the engines as well because the stock internals are so weak.
15PSI is a very general statement, 15PSI on what size turbo? T25? T28? T3/T4? a T04E? a little Schwitzer? 15 PSI on all of those turbos is not the same amount of power.
Valid point. I was referring to to the typical turbo upgrade with a typical non-overkill setup not trying to set the world on fire. Not a Cummins diesel turbo on a 1.3.
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