Never seen that part of Mexico before! Nice video! I take it the stang belonged to a friend? When I first built tweak I beat two different Roush supercharged mustangs getting into the freeway from a local car hangout ( just south if the border). Then I slowed on the freeway and we did pulls and I got them both again at freeway speed. It was funny because the mustang drivers weren't upset, they couldn't stop laughing.
A good friend of mine said it best, " it's like a midget winning a marathon, just thinking about it is funny"
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Depends on the type of aero mods. Anything that limits airflow underneath or promotes smooth flow underneath the car will actually provide higher negative lift numbers (down force) on a scale than OEM applications.Originally posted by Flyin4stroke View PostCan't race those aero dynamic cars above 100.
Anything that smooths flow over the top reduces the Cd (drag coefficient), but can also induce lift. The idea with the nose mods is to lower the stagnation point to prevent so much air from going under/through the engine bay in such a disorganized fashion, and the tapered tail section smooths wake flow and reduces the size of the wake, also lowering Cd at the cost of lift.
Both sets of mods will basically negate each other in terms of stability.
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Legit...it is a track proven 12 sec car, i hope i hit 13.5 in the quarter with mine. Hell i got a 3spare b6ts to go through and 2 spare G series. and 2 spare axles..wow i guess im kinda a hoarder
:scratch:
after madness a few of us FL guys might make a www.racepbir.com day
1?4 Mile track? Road Course? 55mph Gokarts?ohsnap Drifting? is going to have a dyno/track day maybe by the end of the year sometime.:thumbup:
DEC 14 is looking really good..its a mightnight madness event with drifting and quarter mile track right behind you till 1 amLast edited by M3NTAL; 09-02-2012, 09:49 PM.
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im gonna put my 4.10 internals back in the case with the OEM 5th and try again. i thtink the .717 5th is killing my top end acceleration
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Get sheets of used coroplast free, make a belly pan. Clean the front end up, and dont worry about the doors and fender seams. Block the upper radiator opening.
At the rear, make a short panel to a taper from the roof line of about 12degrees of plan taper. Match it on the sides.
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Tape your doors, hatch, and hood closed, add a front and rear splitter and a carbon/fiberglass belly pan. Your back bumper currently acts as a parachute at 120+. If you can't afford all the mods, get some expanding foam (NOT by the exhaust) and fill your bumper in. It should help a little.Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Postwent out to and undisclosed closed coarse last night to meet up with greyvw and his weekly assembly of enthusiasts to race the undefeated F body Z28 in his area. he has intake, cam, headers and sounds mean. we went from a tractionless(for me) 45 roll and i was barely able to creep a fender on him by the top of 4th. when i got into 5th he slowly crept back up and by 120-125mph we were even and by 135-140 he had and had a bumper on me. stupid aero slowin me down at the top end
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went out to and undisclosed closed coarse last night to meet up with greyvw and his weekly assembly of enthusiasts to race the undefeated F body Z28 in his area. he has intake, cam, headers and sounds mean. we went from a tractionless(for me) 45 roll and i was barely able to creep a fender on him by the top of 4th. when i got into 5th he slowly crept back up and by 120-125mph we were even and by 135-140 he had and had a bumper on me. stupid aero slowin me down at the top end
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