Full Time BP Drag Racer

[Advancedynamix]

I understand what you say about the engine going forward, but I tend to worry about the angularity of the axles/CV joint. I have read and have always tried to keep the axles parallel to the ground and coming out at a 90-degree angle from the transmission so the CV joints don't get broken up and a loss of power thru mis-alignment.

Of course if you can get more HP to the ground but have to replace axles/CV joints more often, the trade off could be worth while (?) How often do you change out axles/CV joints?

CV joints wear faster when the axle is kept in a straight position. This is because the load is consistently placed in one spot on the joint. The TQ and vibration quickly wear a divot in that one spot. However, if the CV joint is an an angle, the balls move back and forth in the housing and spread the load over a wider area of the joint.
Also, a rearward angle on the transverse drive line will put downward pressure on the suspension with TQ load. This pushes the drive wheels harder into the pavement.
To put things in perspective, the first Festiva I built has a B6t engine moved about 2.25“ further forward than the stock engine. It has gone over 100k miles (Over 60k hard track miles and across the country 6 times) and is still on the same set of used axles that I put in the car 6 years ago (I put new boots and grease in them). That car has less tendency to spin the tires than a stock B3. In fact, the new owner of that car used to choose the B6t car over his stock Festiva on rainy days because it got much better traction(he has since sold the stock engine Festiva after doing a b6 swap.) Even with 3 times the HP and TQ of the stock engine, the car hooks up better and is easier to drive in bad weather. Both cars have the same suspension and tires. Both cars have the back seat removed. The biggest difference was where the engine is placed. He sent me this photo over the last weekend.

[Advancedynamix]

How about instead of all that rubber to help with the harmonics, you use, ohhh I dunno...a torque converter?

I'd still mount it with rubber. The TQ converter will be a big help with the drive line components, but won't protect the chassis where the engine mounts.

[Doug Brown]

For Advancedynamics or anyone else - I was reading your post reply to "Non Coilover Front Strut Options" dated 12-1-16.

You mentioned for much better dampening on the front end to use the VW coilovers.

I take it this would apply well for a drag racer too. If so, what would be the ideal set up - what year VW and what parts? Anyone sell these shocks "off the shelf" for a bolt on application? And what strut/hub would be best to use?

Remember I have a G trans with xr2 hubs - but I can change any of these as needed.

Many thanks!

[bhazard]

I'd still mount it with rubber. The TQ converter will be a big help with the drive line components, but won't protect the chassis where the engine mounts.

Don't harder mounts help with wheel hop though?

Doug I would just get the mk2/3 front coilovers, you can get the kit for a mk2 caddy that just has the fronts, or ask the vendor to just sell the front of the golf/jetta kit. Then build them as described in the writeup thread. Use a 120-140 lb spring as the car is gonna be light.

[Advancedynamix]

For Advancedynamics or anyone else - I was reading your post reply to "Non Coilover Front Strut Options" dated 12-1-16.

You mentioned for much better dampening on the front end to use the VW coilovers.

I take it this would apply well for a drag racer too. If so, what would be the ideal set up - what year VW and what parts? Anyone sell these shocks "off the shelf" for a bolt on application? And what strut/hub would be best to use?

Remember I have a G trans with xr2 hubs - but I can change any of these as needed.

Many thanks!

The best ones I've found are the TuningArt coilovers for the mk3 VW golf/jetta. They aren't a direct bolt on and you have to change out the springs to a lighter spring, but the valving is spot on and they will provide you with more room for wrinkle wall slicks.
The modification process (to make them fit) is well documented in the suspension modification section of this forum. it's pretty easy, and the shocks are very inexpensive, especially considering the quality of the parts and the drastic performance advantage they offer. The difference is hard to believe, but has been reported by many here on this forum.

Don't harder mounts help with wheel hop though?

Doug I would just get the mk2/3 front coilovers, you can get the kit for a mk2 caddy that just has the fronts, or ask the vendor to just sell the front of the golf/jetta kit. Then build them as described in the writeup thread. Use a 120-140 lb spring as the car is gonna be light.

Wheel hop is caused by excessive wheelspin, poor shock valving and poor quality tires. If the engine is mounted forward, the suspension is set up correctly and the tires are round and balanced, you won't have wheel hop, especially with an NA BP.
The mounts should be firm enough to keep the engine from moving excessively, but soft enough to dampen the engines vibration and harmonics.

[william]

Are the tuning art coilovers valved better then the hottuning coilovers? Have you seen the top tuning br coil overs ? There only 210.22 shiped!!

[Advancedynamix]

Hottuning sells Tuning Art coilovers. That's what the TA stands for stamped in the side.
I haven't tried the top tuning coilovers. I'm in the process of trying another style of VW coilover that is a true twin chamber coilover with the option of remote reservoir. I'll be testing them out at the track this weekend if all goes well.

[Doug Brown]

Thanks for all the input! This will really help.

The "solid" rear shock idea was brilliant and that part is all ready under construction.

What I am still looking for is a couple of good ideas (pictures /drawings) of modifying/strengthening the radiator support frame work. I have seen one so far on the site, but I'd like to get 3 or 4 different ideas or "how I did it" articles/pictures so I could pick & choose what will work best for me.

Also, if anyone has a lathe and does custom machine work, I have a couple of tubing adapters that I need made and I would rather pay a member to do it than a machine shop. Let me know if you are interested!

Thanks!