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  • Steering Quickener ideas

    I am looking at the in line steering quickeners again. Overkill is going on another diet soon and will no longer have turn signals or a need for the stick on the column. I was just thiking about adding in the steering quickener while im in there doing other crap.

    I know the quickener on a non powered rack will make it harder to turn the wheel (doing more work with the same amount of leverage). That is a 2 sided coin tho right? If its harder for me to turn the wheel would it not be harder for the car to follow cracks in the road? I race on a very rough surface with lots of small squares of concrete that are broken up a bit. I get a good amount of torque steer when going over certain spots. Would this help the "torque steer" when going over bumps in the path? Or would it end up the same due to the wheels still turning the same amount? I think it should cut down on the feeling to the wheel from bumps like that. Make it a bit harder pull the wheel from my hands resulting in a lower amount of torque steer.

    I dont know that it works like that but it seems like it might help some. I want to try out a 2x quickener. I dont have any trouble with how much it takes to turn the car. I wont be daily driving her anymore so it should be no issue until in the paddock and then it would just be heavy.

    Aany Thoughts?
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

  • #2
    Or would it just make it worse to me behind the wheel. Everything would be the same from ground up but it would want to turn my wheel even more. It would be not as hard of a pull on the wheel but would pull the wheel more degrees.

    I think it would be easier to drive that way because i will have to work less to control it.

    I think i will find a spare steering column and have at it. Its worth trying. If it helps sweet it not at least i tried.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

    Comment


    • #3
      You already did the Rio upgrade right?
      Current cars:

      1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
      1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
      2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
      2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

      Comment


      • #4
        I think you confuse torque steer with loss of traction
        91GL BP/F3A with boost
        13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

        Comment


        • #5
          No one else has done it, so I'm not sure what you're expecting to get for an answer.

          They're cheap. Do it, let us know what you think. I can say a 2x on a Rio rack should be.... interesting. lol. 1.5x may be more manageable.
          ~Nate

          the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

          Current cars:
          91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
          1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
          2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

          FOTY 2008 winner!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View Post
            No one else has done it, so I'm not sure what you're expecting to get for an answer.

            They're cheap. Do it, let us know what you think. I can say a 2x on a Rio rack should be.... interesting. lol. 1.5x may be more manageable.
            I agree with you there. 1.5 would be the sweet spot. Most high end sports cars are right around 2.25 lock to lock. So 1.5x on top of the low 3 of the rio rack would put me in the sweet spot or just a hair over it. But the 2x would be pure autocross action (which the car is now anyway).

            the 2.0 would make it handle like the small karts that have the single hand position wheels. Would make for no hand over hand action at all.


            Brad i think the better term for what im talking about in bump steer. When i raced on actual black top the car had not a single drop of torque steer or understeer or bump steer and on the 100% same suspension setup as i ran on my last 3 events. I sure had loss of traction but it didnt cause me to change direction. My loss of traction was fixed after a few massive burnouts off the line...
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              I have yet another idea.


              Steering dampener! Our cars don't have one. I think it would be easy to fit a small one in there.
              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

              Comment


              • #8
                Fastest,cheapest, easiest way in my opinion to quick steer a festiva would be redrill ream an taper the steering knuckles relocting the outer tie rod end location. Or cut and weld the arm if you feel confident in your ability. I know everyones going to say oh thats dangereous if it is welded and gusseted properly it is stronger than stock.I do not know if you are actually getting torque steer,lack of traction,or bump steer. If it is truly bump steer I would be looking at my tierod angles. To cure bump steer on a lowered porsche you relocate the rack with spacers so the wheel that is bumped isn't pulled so hard by the tierod as it goes up.Meaning if your tie rods are level at rest when you hit a bump the wheel will be pulled by the tie rod if the tie rods angle down they will be pushed by the bump and then pulled as the tie rod passes its centerline, so it's change isn't as great a little one way then a little the other not all in one direction.
                30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by chrisofna View Post
                  You already did the Rio upgrade right?
                  Is there a writeup on this? The search yields nothing
                  1991 Beastiva L BP autoX'er

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showt...ight=rack+swap

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think but don't know, the steering will be harder to control.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                        I am looking at the in line steering quickeners again. Overkill is going on another diet soon and will no longer have turn signals or a need for the stick on the column. I was just thiking about adding in the steering quickener while im in there doing other crap.

                        I know the quickener on a non powered rack will make it harder to turn the wheel (doing more work with the same amount of leverage). That is a 2 sided coin tho right? If its harder for me to turn the wheel would it not be harder for the car to follow cracks in the road? I race on a very rough surface with lots of small squares of concrete that are broken up a bit. I get a good amount of torque steer when going over certain spots. Would this help the "torque steer" when going over bumps in the path? Or would it end up the same due to the wheels still turning the same amount? I think it should cut down on the feeling to the wheel from bumps like that. Make it a bit harder pull the wheel from my hands resulting in a lower amount of torque steer.

                        I dont know that it works like that but it seems like it might help some. I want to try out a 2x quickener. I dont have any trouble with how much it takes to turn the car. I wont be daily driving her anymore so it should be no issue until in the paddock and then it would just be heavy.

                        Aany Thoughts?
                        I think you are on the right track. An input from the tire would not move the steering wheel as far.
                        A 1:2 ratio over a stock rack would give noticeable results compared to a Rio swap. Done over a Rio swap, would approach go-cart.
                        No car too fast !

                        Comment

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