body work and rust products

[warlocke]

im looking in east woods catalog and they have body solder, which is basically metal version of bondo.

is it worth it and what the procedure to do it?

i have a few dents i will need to fill in so i may try this.


edit

changing to discuss diffrent body fillers and rust stop stuff.

[muscle_Car1]

Same thing as leading your car. Tuff to get it right.

[warlocke]

ok, reason i ask is i have a few dents, and my hood on the drivers side is pitted pretty good from surface rust, so im looking for ways to fill it in. guess it will be bondo time. lol

what about eastwoods rust encapsulator? is it worth buying?

[muscle_Car1]

Pitted how badly? Have a welder? You can tack a weld on the small hole & grind it smooth.

[warlocke]

pretty much the whole drivers side of the hood. hundreds of pits which i cant get sand paper into, lol

[warlocke]

what else would yall reccomend for stuff like this?

[FB71]

first, Festivas are my third love... First is ol' skool hot rods (think 'The Bug'), second is 50's, 60's and 70's muscle Fords (motorcycles are mixed throughout!) I've restored a few 60's Mustangs, Fairlanes, and now I also have a Falcon. I have experience with body repair products, but I am by no means a professional or expert (disclaimer ).

body solder was the original "Bondo", if you will... used by coach builders to fill seams and level low spots on the assembly line. Polyester products were developed for the collision repair industry, to speed and simplify repairs, but at the sacrifice of durability. Plastic fillers do not last as long as solder, but modern fillers (especially those with talc) can easily last 10 years+ before they start to deteriorate and crack/delaminate. Frankly, being lazy, I tried several different "rust converters", including those offered by Eastwood. I was not happy with any of them. They form an anaerobic layer over the rust, stopping oxidation, and supposedly provide a foundation for other finishes. I've found, in most cases, if you breach the surface of the converter, you can peel it off in sheets. I had big problems with it balling up if hit with a sander. Your best bet is to media blast. It sounds expensive, but add up all the converter products you'd need to buy, then get a quote from a local blaster. My bet, they'll be close in price. With that said, I'm not only lazy, but also cheap. I sand the affected area the best I can, exposing as much shiny metal as possible. I then paint it with RustOlem Red Oxide primer. After it dries, I sand it again, to remove the red oxide from the shiny metal. Any pits, gouges or rough areas retain the red oxide, sealing the rust. I then lay down a good epoxy primer over that, sealing the entire surface. I did my first Mustang like that 14 years ago, and it still looks new. I'm learining to body solder, but still use polyester fillers extensively. The best I've personnally used is Rage made by Evercoat. Adheres well, stays mildly flexible (resists cracking), sands cleanly, but a bit more expensive than Bondo. But, you get what you pay for... Evercoat also makes thin skim-coat fillers, and both long and short-strand fiberglass impregnated fillers for larger repairs.

[festivaWES]

rage is where its at....nuff said

[25Horseplay]

first, Festivas are my third love....

WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!! :shock: LOL!