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$2008 Challenge Festiva, Help!

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  • #16
    I think his 55 mpg is one measure of success.....
    1986 Comp Prep SVO Mustang(1 of 83) Four cylinder turbo! (Think first Fox body "R" model!)
    1995 F-150 Extra Cab and it was free!
    1991 Festiva L, Surf Blue with A/C
    1995 Jeep Cherokee 2wd 5 speed 4.0 and it was free!
    1993 Aqua Festiva and it was cheap!
    1994 Brake Swap and it was cheap!
    1969 Ford F100 Big Block Ranger and it was free! (coming 2/12)

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    • #17
      If you didn't know gotrootdude, at an AutoX the car will not see 60mph. Hardly worth the time, effort and $ for a challenge car. If we were talking road racing 100+mph, I would say you were right, maybe it should be looked into. Not in this application, especially not instead of adding power or suspension first.. -Kyle
      Cosmic Blue 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - Mostly Stock...

      White 1990 Ford Festiva - B6 SOHC powered 50 shot = 14.5 @ 94 mph Gone but not forgotten

      Proud member of Chicken Mechanix Racing

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      • #18
        Safety,

        I use the yarn method for testing. Stick yarn on with tape where you believe the wind will change and a short run at lower speeds to see where the yarn goes. I find the vortex generators work much better underneath the car (where it's rough and turbulent) than they do on top as mentioned in this article in the testing conclusions: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_3061/article.html So, since I figured anything that would aid the handling of the car would help, I mentioned them. I can say from my results, since I do normally drive lower than 100+mph, that it does make a difference at lower speeds.

        If I were in a race to win, I'd take any advantage I could get.

        Look guys, all I did was offer a few CHEAP suggestions that MIGHT offer some improvements. I didn't think I'd be ganged up on about it. After all, I'm not disagreeing with you that the suspension and engine come first.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by 25Horseplay View Post
          There was a car here that was built for that in 2003. It was Nightdwellers car. He recently sold the car to another members friend. It had alot of low budget tricks done to it. I know Nightdweller didn't build it but if you PM him he might be able to give some pointers as to what was done to the car.
          Alright. well. the one that purchased it is my bestfriend. so im the one that can get pctures. ive been trying to get him to just come on the board he always talk about it his lazyness just kicks in. hah.

          from what i remember it having.

          Enginewise, swapped in 1.6T stock intercoolor festiva transmission.(id suggest g25, the guy who built it said he blew like 5 tranny in it had the tranny swap down to about 30 mins) he has an oil cooler.(il have to get pics its a relocated oil filter routed through a radiator) it has the stock trubio with and old HKS boost controller. he has the cone filter with air induction tubes running from three places, one from the cowl, one from under the car, and he added a little carbon fiber scoop right above were the cone sits. he has a oem blowoff valve.(im nto sure what psi its rated cause at stock 5-7 psi i dotn hear it.but id you step on it and powershift its loud. jsut dont hear it normal driving) thats all i can remmber about the engine right now.

          Suspension wise, he has KYB GR2s all round with some brand of coil overs, all the bushings are red. maybe high durometer or maybe just replaced. front aspire brake swap. dual bolt pattern rims.(aspire and festiva) and in the engine bay he has a strut tower brace made from a F350 inner tie rod end.

          an as for other thing i can remember, he has 2 APC racing seats. 1 five point harness, one four. half cage. or roll bar.(is only behind the seats nothing in the cockpit) 20 gallon fuel cell. two fuel pumps. a 1 gallon reserve tank fire extinguisher, a punch of little pods. boost guage, volts, oil pressure, EXC. big tach. momo steeringwheel. he had a thing on the bumper, like fins for downforce i belive. spoiler. he had a removable rack on the rof for toteing race wheels. passenger mirror.

          geez i cant remember what else. il have to get pictures. hope this helps. and give you some ideas.

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          • #20
            got some images. il get more later.

            1.6TDOHC Dorsey


            1.6TDOHC Dorsey


            1.6TDOHC Dorsey

            its his car. hes currently waiting on approval for the board. i finally got him to get on here.

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            • #21
              lol....he's approved
              "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
              89L Silver EFI auto
              91GL Green Auto DD
              There ain't no rest for the wicked
              until we close our eyes for good.
              I will sleep when I die!
              I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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              • #22
                Gotrootdude wrote:

                "Look guys, all I did was offer a few CHEAP suggestions that MIGHT offer some improvements. I didn't think I'd be ganged up on about it. After all, I'm not disagreeing with you that the suspension and engine come first."

                I wasn't "ganging up!" Just wondering where you were getting your ideas, knowledge, etc.

                That article series looks really good. I've known about the tuft testing for ages, but I've never done it. Looks like I should.

                My only experience with aerodynamics comes from an air dam I made for my Chevette a long time ago. It was fairly deep in the first two piece version, then not so deep in the one piece second version (which also looked way better). All I can say is that it did indeed reduce the air pressure under my car because it did increase stability going over hills and kept the front end firmly planted! I never measured fuel economy or drag so I can't say if the increased frontal area overcame the air flow effects. I did have it on when I went on a long trip out west.

                My plans for Festivas are to make another front air dam, but this time to do coast down or mpg testing to see if it makes a difference. With the FMS lowering springs installed, the air dam should not have to be as deep, and may both increase down force AND increase mpgs. Also, to block off at least half of my engine compartment area to wind intrusion. I have also thought of a modified front grille to better integrate the hood with the front bumper, but that would be more involved.

                For winter, I'm also thinking of a solid front grille, for both aero and warm-up purposes.

                Karl
                '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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                • #23
                  Air dams are great if you don't have a smooth underbody. If you have a full underbody pan I believe they'll decrease your aerodynamics more than help it.

                  For stability in a race, I'd choose the dam over smoothing the underbody to decrease the air pressure under the car and stick it to the road. Then again, if you can put fins on the underbody to shoot air out the sides then maybe a smooth underbody would be best (maybe with a RWD)... Not sure which way to go on this...

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