Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

i need advice.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • i need advice.

    i need to get my car redy for the western canada meet, im wondering if i should:

    rebuild the stock b3?
    do a quick b6 swap?
    or just do a bp or b6t swap?

    i found a 323gt for $500 so that is what i would like to do but im worried that, it being my first motor swap ill screw it up and miss the meet. im also worried it will be a bit much to DD with gas prices.

    dose anyone know which gets better gas mileage, a b6t or a bp?

    what should i do?

    im stressing out!!!


    Mike, AKA the sasquatch
    1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

  • #2
    Honestly, for me I wound rebuild the stock b3 so you could see and learn everything basic first.

    but if you know the b3 well then i would go for thebasic bp because from whati hear its the easiest.

    Comment


    • #3
      the only thing that im worried about it is, welding up the motor/trans mounts, the wiring and cutting my frame apart, but that is the whole motor swap, all the other stuff anyone could do lol. and also maby buying a junk motor.


      Mike, AKA the sasquatch
      1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

      Comment


      • #4
        If your gonna rebuild a B3 you may as well do a B6 because there basically the same motor.

        Originally posted by collegeboi View Post
        i would go for the basic bp because from whati hear its the easiest.
        lol no... the B6 is definitely the easiest.. its hardly even a swap.. just bolts in... second and third easyiest would probably be the B6-ME and then the B8. (I think those bolt in? feel free to call me out) im not a bp expert but i think you need to make atleast one mount for it.
        89SX funtop! Fully loaded!
        RIP 90LX

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by stefan View Post
          If your gonna rebuild a B3 you may as well do a B6 because there basically the same motor.
          that is what i was thinking, but then i have to find a good one. there are are a copple of them in the jy but i dont know how good the are, and there are a copple of bp's there too so i am debating wether i should should just do the bp swap, my jy charges the same amount for any motor, and that just makes it so much harder to decide. im mostly conserned about the mileage of the bp and b6t, if they are going to take alot of gas then im just going to do the b6. how many mpg do you think i will get if i keep my foot out of it, bp VS b6t?


          Mike, AKA the sasquatch
          1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

          Comment


          • #6
            These 2 would be easiest.
            B6-E
            1.6 SOHC 8-valve
            1985-1989 Mazda 323 (exc. GT & GTX)
            1988-1989 Mercury Tracer
            1990-1994 Mazda 323 (federal) [2238 lbs.]
            82hp @ 5000rpm
            92ft-lb @ 2500rpm
            29/37mpg (5spd manual)
            26/33mpg (4spd auto)

            B6-ME
            1.6 SOHC 16-valve
            1990-1994 Mazda 323 (California)
            1992-1993 Mazda MX-3 RS [2332 lbs.]
            88hp @ 5000rpm
            98ft-lb @ 4000rpm
            29/35mpg (manual)
            25/32mpg (auto)

            Im guessing that this would be next because its a SOHC.
            B8-ME
            1.8 SOHC 16-valve
            1990 Mazda Protege SE
            1990-1991 Mazda Protege 4WD
            1991-1994 Mazda Protege DX [2359 lbs.]
            103hp @ 5500rpm
            111ft-lb @ 4000rpm
            28/36mpg (manual)
            24/31mpg (auto)
            Search Master - Honorary Member of Midwest Festiva Inc., Gulf Coast Chapter

            Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
            - Unknown
            I don't like superstitious people. They're bad luck. - Serge A. Storms

            If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style.
            - Quentin Crisp

            God, please save me from your followers!
            - Bumper Sticker

            Comment


            • #7
              You could do a swap and have it ready in no time, or it could drag on and on and you would miss the meet. There are a lot of threads in here on the subject of a swap that would not start, including one of mine. (Both the engine (head gasket) and the wiring (internally broken wires and splices in the harness) went bad.) One ice race team I know has done several B6 swaps with ease, then run into a no-start condition for their first B6T swap. I suggest you make your choice first as to what engine you really want to have. Then decide if you want to swap before the meet and pressure yourself, or wait till after, and live with telling people what will happen to the car, instead of what has happened.
              Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
              Icetiva-3-race-car-build
              http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299

              Comment


              • #8
                i've done a early style B6 SOHC swap, and a BP swap

                the B6 is a direct bolt in, motor mounts and all, the only modifying i ran into was the connectors for the injectors are different, just need to cut and splice the B6 connectors onto the B3 harness

                The BP swap does need some fabricating for the mounts, i didn't use the stock tranny so didn't have to modify the firewall, if you use the stock trans you'll need to cut the firewall, the wiring i found to be very simple and straight forward to do following Mattswabb's write-up

                the BP gives a TON more power over the B6 and if you have the extra time to do the fabricating is it well worth it

                1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

                Comment


                • #9
                  B6 will be the easiest and get you running before the meet...
                  Simon - pimptiva.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    ok i thought about it last night and im going to do a bp/g25 swap, i would like to use the cable g series trans, the only problem is that the only one i can find is in a whole car, and he wants to sell the whole car for $500, it a 323gt so it comes with a good b6t, so now im just thinking that i should do the b6t swap. how much harder is the b6t over the bp? also i did a little reserch yesterday and found that a b6t gets around 30 mpg, how many dose a bp get?


                    Mike, AKA the sasquatch
                    1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My built BP gets about 31... I'd assume a stock BP will get a little better than that.

                      With that said... If you've already got a "good" B6T, then go that route. You've got the whole car? You've got everything you need except for the custom mounts you'll need.
                      Simon - pimptiva.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        While we're on this topic, and I know I'll need to know too, which mounts do you need to make?
                        2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart
                        1991 Ford Festiva LX
                        1989 Mazda 323 GT

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          ^ i need to know the same, and i would like to know are the b6t and bp mounts the same?


                          Mike, AKA the sasquatch
                          1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you're going to be putting in the G25 tranny? You need to make all 3 mounts - the passenger side engine mount and the front and rear tranny mounts.

                            My setup is a BP with the stock Festiva tranny... The only mount that was needed was a passenger engine mount and we went with a non weld mount (something that could be fabricated without the need of a welder)
                            Simon - pimptiva.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              And no, the mounts for the BP and B6T are not the same.
                              Simon - pimptiva.com

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X