I havn't checked yet, but can you get the spindle nuts at Checkers or Autozone for the Aspire? Anyone know?
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Originally posted by lasvegascop View PostI havn't checked yet, but can you get the spindle nuts at Checkers or Autozone for the Aspire? Anyone know?
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My 93 model Festiva has a hole drilled in it. The older models don't. Wonder if a machine shop could drill the older spindles.The wife and I are attending this meet. Come convoy with us.Come to the 1st annual "Sunshine Meet" March 20th 2010. Details in the thread below.
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...292#post295292
www.festivameets.com
Festiva Convoy video link [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyFYJcFBc_g[/urlhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANbkG...eature=related
3rd Annual Festiva Madness. The largest Festiva Meet ever held of owners and their cars 2009 Festiva Madness link with pictures. 51 Festivas & 4 Aspires from eight states attended.
FM3 short 5 minute clip
Link to a short 5 minute clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFyy-zxgV5A
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=24695
link to 100s of meets pictures and short video clips.http://s1019.photobucket.com/albums/af316/festivameets/
4th Annual Festiva Madness meet will be held Oct 2, 2010 in Raleigh, NC
Cell is 919-271-5190 deanraleighnc@cs.com
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neither spindle on my 93 has a hole for a cotter pin and castle nut.
the spindles came to Kia from two different suppliers, the one making reverse thread on the right being the primary supplier.Jim DeAngelis
kittens give Morbo gas!!
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)
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Funny you say that Jim...I stripped the freakin nut on the right, thinking it was going same way as the others including both fronts. So, I went to the junk yard (in the same day I fixed the driver's side haha) and got the passenger side since for $8.13 I couldnt resist.
Good safety/mech tip! The passenger side spindle nut turns the other way(clock wise) to unscrew it!!!! hahahahahahSki
1986 Ferrari Testarossa
2002 BMW 745i
2002 BMW 325i
1989 BP'd Festi :p
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torque nut till you 'just' can't turn the drum by hand, un-torque, repeat, then un torque 1/4 turn (no more!!) and dimple the coller on the nut to secure it. never had an issue with any rear bearings using this method.
note: torqueing hubbed drums should always be done by hand in this manner.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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The shop manual has a semi-complicated procedure about measuring rear seal drag with an inch-pound torque wrench, blah blah blah. FestYboy's procedure sounds just as reasonable & is easier. So little torque on that rear axle nut really scares the hell out of me. Checking into trying to get spindles drilled for a cotter pin. Still haven't found a source for reverse threaded castle/castellated nut. Would have to get a machine shop to make a bunch, if they'd even do it.
Focustiva: Because I was told it was was impossible to fit a Focus bumper on a Festiva.
In memory of Dean Allen - V8 Festiva 1955-2010
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AutoZone stocks them... as does PepBoys
Lasvegascop: tyipcally CV spindle nuts are torqued to about 150, mine sit at about 120Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Originally posted by FestYboy View Posttorque nut till you 'just' can't turn the drum by hand, un-torque, repeat, then un torque 1/4 turn (no more!!) and dimple the coller on the nut to secure it. never had an issue with any rear bearings using this method.
note: torqueing hubbed drums should always be done by hand in this manner.
The procedure specifies that you are supposed to end up WITH drag on the drum. I've done it by the book several times, and have determined that a hub nut torque of 5-10 lb-in yields near the drag specs indicated by Ford.
After torquing, rotating the drum and detorquing (twice is prefered), tighten the nut finger-tight, no tools. Then take a pair of pliers or channel locks, grasping the nut straight on (like you would to place a ring on a finger) and give it a light twist to tighten. It shouldn't rotate more than 1/16-1/8 of an inch.
Leaving the hub nut loose by a 1/4 turn will result in premature failure of the bearings, usually first indicated by cupping of the rear tires. Gradually, the bearings will overheat, and can lock and damage/destroy the rear spindle.Jim DeAngelis
kittens give Morbo gas!!
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)
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sorry Jim, that's how i've done it for years. but, i let my hands tell me when it's right.
the 1/4 turn back, or less, (for me) comes after locking the bearing down enough that the drum won't spin anymore. so i guess i lay into my bearings a bit more than recomended but as i've not had a problem with this method, i havn't had a need to change it.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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well today i went to change my rear bearings and of course i started on the passenger side. The owners that had this car before me ruined that nut and i was able to take it off by hand didn't even have to turn it just pulled. The car has 322,000kms on it and the bearings must have been done quite awhile ago. I cant believe the damn thing didn't fall off in the 2200kms that i have put on since buying it.Last edited by postman101; 12-04-2008, 01:04 AM.BP Festiva on MS2 with gsxr itbs Woot!!!
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