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  • rear jacking point

    oh man, i am full of questions. thanks to everyone who has responded. hopefully i'll come up to speed soon and then can start helping the newbies.

    question: can i jack the rear up under the axle with a floor jack?

    thanks,
    dan

  • #2
    I have, but would use the frame rails on the sides.
    69 Shelby GT-350, 351W, 4 spd
    97 Jag xk8 vert
    06 Mini Cooper S GP
    93 Stiva
    04 Volvo S80

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    • #3
      man, i am just completely lost. the owner's manual says "find the jack notch next to the door of the tire you are changing" but i dont see any notch. they're not talking about the pinch seem are they?

      I see what looks like a frame rail (about 2" wide) extending from the front control arm (sorry if thats the wrong term) should I use that?

      sorry, i'm used to trucks and ladder frames - dont know anything about this unibody stuff.

      thanks,
      dan

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      • #4
        Yes, the pinch seam is the jacking point with the supplied jack. I use my regular jack under the sub-frame. I think a reg jack will bend the seam.
        69 Shelby GT-350, 351W, 4 spd
        97 Jag xk8 vert
        06 Mini Cooper S GP
        93 Stiva
        04 Volvo S80

        Comment


        • #5
          I usually jack up the rear 1 side at a time using the tie down brackets with a floor jack. If you need both sides up at the same time, use jack stands in front of each rear wheel.

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          • #6
            I've used the "boxed frame rails" for a long time.

            To help prevent damage to the undercoating and avoid putting unseemly dents into the underbody, I also use a piece of thin wood between the jack or jackstand and the car.

            Lately I've used a longer piece of wood (about 1/4" to 1/2" thick plywood scrap does the trick) under the jack, with most of the wood stickin out where the jackstand will go. That way I only have to fool with the wood once per side.

            I've used the rear axles to jack up the car. I didn't notice any damage but I'm wondering. Obviously, if you're working on the axles themselves (like for removal during a suspension swap) that won't do.

            What I WOULDN'T DO is to use one jack to raise the middle of the rear axle beam. I'm afraid that might bend the axle! I could be wrong but I ain't chancing it!

            Be sure to put the front jackstands up as far FRONT as you can, since these cars have so much weight up front. I'm paranoid about the rear of the car not having enough weight to "balance out" the front!

            Karl
            '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
            '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
            '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
            '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
            '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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            • #7
              well this is kind of a bummer - i guess there's no easy way to pop the whole back end up. I didn't even realize the "rear axle" wasn't a rear axle... just a piece of angle iron basically. definitely dont want to risk bending that.

              i really dont like jacking up cars in quarter sections. it's pretty dangerous.

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              • #8
                jack a side up, put a cinderblock(w/ one or more 2x4s ontop) under the seam, jack the other side up & do the same. worked just fine when I replaced the ball joints /arms. it should work just peachy for the back end.

                alt method, get a 2nd Festiva jack. although I recomend the cinderblock/2x4 combo since it's more stable
                "Nothing's gonna grieve us
                When we drive Festivas
                I could go a hundred miles an hour
                Long as I got the Almighty Power
                With my plastic Jesus
                Riding on the dashboard of my car"

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                • #9
                  thanks for the idea

                  i wonder if i could use a floor jack with a long 2x4 across the whole seam to lift the side up then let the 2x4 down onto 2 cinder blocks by each wheel. that way i could have the floor jack evenly between the two wheels

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by danwheeler
                    thanks for the idea

                    i wonder if i could use a floor jack with a long 2x4 across the whole seam to lift the side up then let the 2x4 down onto 2 cinder blocks by each wheel. that way i could have the floor jack evenly between the two wheels
                    possible, but I'ld still recomend jacking up one side at a time.
                    "Nothing's gonna grieve us
                    When we drive Festivas
                    I could go a hundred miles an hour
                    Long as I got the Almighty Power
                    With my plastic Jesus
                    Riding on the dashboard of my car"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 69shelby
                      Yes, the pinch seam is the jacking point with the supplied jack. I use my regular jack under the sub-frame. I think a reg jack will bend the seam.
                      other way around. The seam is significantly stronger than the "frame rail" (its only 14ga sheet metal). The rail will easily crush if the car is lifted by it. The seam is 3 to 4 layers of 14ga and 20 ga sheetmetal. look for a very shallow notch in the bottom of the seam.
                      Jim DeAngelis

                      kittens give Morbo gas!!



                      Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
                      Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 4cylDreadnaught
                        jack a side up, put a cinderblock(w/ one or more 2x4s ontop) under the seam, jack the other side up & do the same. worked just fine when I replaced the ball joints /arms. it should work just peachy for the back end.

                        alt method, get a 2nd Festiva jack. although I recomend the cinderblock/2x4 combo since it's more stable
                        ever heard of a jack stand?
                        Roe:

                        1990 Jeep Cherokee
                        2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP


                        Email: Nathan.Roe86@Gmail.com

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                        • #13
                          this is slightly off topic, but i've been having a heck of a time getting the lugs off the front wheels. they just won't go, i've even tried with a 5 foot pipe extending off the lug wrench, and they won't come off. any hints?
                          marc
                          white 93 GL / 5spd

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Marc's fesDiva
                            this is slightly off topic, but i've been having a heck of a time getting the lugs off the front wheels. they just won't go, i've even tried with a 5 foot pipe extending off the lug wrench, and they won't come off. any hints?
                            soak it with penetrating oil, and give a few good taps with an 8oz ballpeen. Make sure to use an anti-seize compound when you put them back on
                            "Nothing's gonna grieve us
                            When we drive Festivas
                            I could go a hundred miles an hour
                            Long as I got the Almighty Power
                            With my plastic Jesus
                            Riding on the dashboard of my car"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              merci beaucoup!
                              marc
                              white 93 GL / 5spd

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