Stock 1.3 rebuild- Name of the Game is CHEAP

[boostmaster]

I'm relatively new here and I've searched a bit about rebuilds but it seems like people would rather swap to a bigger engine.


Our current 88lx -soon to be dubbed "cheapstiva" (unless someone has that name already...) needs a rebuild. Just checked odo. 153k. rings seem to be worn as this car has really started burning the oil. I replaced the valve cover gasket and that helped with leaks and now the oil pan is leaking...

Everything works fine (new t-stat, sensors, carb works perfect, etc). Just think it's time for a rebuild.

Problem is that I am not sure what the recommendations for rebuilding are. That is why I am here asking the "experts" (ie: people with more festiva experience than me).

SO, what should I be expecting to pay machine shop-wise, rebuild kit, etc. I would like to do this right but I don't want to spend a ton of money to do it. I would like the car to last at least another 5 or 6 years commuting about 100 -150 miles a day. If people can provide pricing, internet links to places with cheap parts, etc, that would be great.

Any and all constructive input is appreciated.
TIA

[ejp2fast]

First off, i am no expert. I rebuilt my B3 early last year. New rings, and lower crank and rod bearings, all new valves, new valve springs, upper and lower seals (except distributor), and head gasket set or kit only upper.
I'd say probably close to $200 for all parts, with $125 worth of work to clean and re-seat the valves on the head. I got my gasket kit on ebay for $60ish. I really only needed exhaust valves, as my intakes where probably ok.

Before i do anything, check compression in each cylinder. Rings and lower end may not need to be done. Only exhaust valves may be all you need. Is it all worth it? For me.. I wanted the stock B3 mileage.
Now, later, i would much more consider a lower mileage B6. I really enjoyed the rebuilding, as it was my first time on the low end doing rings and bearings.

[boostmaster]

How hard was the rebuild. I am not a mechanic but I can do the basics, such as shocks, timing chains, valve springs, seals and gaskets. I have a machine shop across from my office. However, I don't have an engine puller- I need to borrow one.

Any other things I should look at while I'm at it?


This has to be a 100% reliable and safe commuter car for the next 5-6 years... Driving in KY weather. It was 70+ degrees on Sunday and today Tuesday it's snowing again!

[ejp2fast]

I left the engine in when i did this.. I am by no means a professional, and I tried to do it a little slower (b/c it was my first time) and take my time. I did NOT need to do my rings and lower end... i just was getting bad compression (was an exhaust valve i found when i pulled the head) but bought my rings and bearings prior to tearing into it.

Your compression test will tell a lot. Do that before you pull the head. My #3 cylinder was only 60 psi from the 130+ from the others. If you take the head off, for sure do your timing belt and H2O pump as thats easy. Following my haynes manual through all this got me through fine.
Plus we'll all be here to help with your questions.

[mattswabb]

Do you really need a rebuilt engine? You should be able to pick up a used one for $100 or less and not have all the hassles.

[ejp2fast]

if i were to do it again, it just drop in a B6.

[boostmaster]

My concern with a swap is buying one that needs rebuilding as well. I'm kinda anal about stuff like that. I'd rather make sure it's 100% than risk failure at an inopportune moment.

I've talked to my machine shop about disassembly, hot tank and rebuilding. Not too expensive if all I need is rings. $80 more if I do pistons as well. While I'm a performance nut, this car is 100% being built with economy and reliability in mind with performance as a secondary concern.

[boostmaster]

Did a compression test today. Not sure if done right but... Removed all the plugs, disabled the coil and kept the throttle wide open. (88 LX- carbed car)

Anyway the gauge jumped between 180-210 across the board. Not sure if this is consistent enough...

Also took a pic of the plugs. They don't seem too bad- They have a few thousand miles on them at most... The one on the far right had a little more oil on the threads than the others. I have a new valve cover gasket too... Any comments?

[95Compact]

Boost, compared to the plugs I pulled out of mine, those loose great!! You may have slightly leaky valve stem seals on 3 and 4...

My compression check a few days ago netted about 150-150-125-150... The standard (in the Haynes manual) is 150-200, so I think you're just fine... but any other opinions are welcome, I'm considering a ring/valve/head gasket job myself!

As you probably know, I am no Festy expert by any means!

Cheers,
-Scott

[jglutz]

I rebuilt my B3 @ 142K. It was easy. I was burning oil. The top ring of the No. 2 Cyl. broke and scored the cylinder. I had to have the cylinder welded. The best part was I pulled the short block by myself and was able set the re-assembled short by myself.

The oil pan gasket can be tricky.

[V8Festiva]

I bought a new 94 Aspire 1.3 short block last summer.

If you get the pulleys from a 93 Festiva it will bolt right up.

See several new short blocks on Ebay go for under 400.00


Dean
Raleigh, NC