Discuss enhancing your Festiva or Aspire interior and exterior (including custom paint, bodywork, seats, etc)
'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
i bought chris rummels set up which is cool but it was never a true HID set up. he had a projector driving light and a halogen high beam but he did not have a lens for it. today i was at the hobby expo and there was a compony who sells stuff to make platic molds. i bought 2ilbs of mold making stuff and resin and plan on making a clear lens with out the reflectors so that a projector style hid set up can be used. im debating if i should take my perfectly good lights apart or see if i can find some leaking ones and steal the glass lens.
contact Packrat....he got a set that was very nicely priced and gave you high low beams , most are single beam for sale on e-bay.
"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good. I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
^^As I understand HID's (anyone feel free to correct this statement) they are indeed a single intensity output... no bright/dim function. Unless you buy a 2nd set of HID's/ballasts of a different output intensity, you get what you get... prodigious amounts of blinding light!
Some advertised advantages of HID's:
a) "the sun on your grill" prodigious light output
b) no filaments to rattle around & break (allegedly longer life)
c) lower current draw than conventional lights once the arc is stable
Some caveats:
Frequently check & make SURE all your electrical connections to the HIDs/components are tight & fully covered... the ballast/transformer produces some serious voltage. Moisture and/or close proximity metal + HID high voltage = UnGood.
Focustiva: Because I was told it was was impossible to fit a Focus bumper on a Festiva. In memory of Dean Allen - V8 Festiva 1955-2010
^^As I understand HID's (anyone feel free to correct this statement) they are indeed a single intensity output... no bright/dim function. Unless you buy a 2nd set of HID's/ballasts of a different output intensity, you get what you get... prodigious amounts of blinding light!
Some advertised advantages of HID's:
a) "the sun on your grill" prodigious light output
b) no filaments to rattle around & break (allegedly longer life)
c) lower current draw than conventional lights once the arc is stable
Some caveats:
Frequently check & make SURE all your electrical connections to the HIDs/components are tight & fully covered... the ballast/transformer produces some serious voltage. Moisture and/or close proximity metal + HID high voltage = UnGood.
I know Doug has been running them for a while now and I do not think he has had any problems with them....Simon may still be running them too.
They are single filament but the ones Doug bought have a high/low function. The filament slides in and out producing more or less light as needed. He stated that it is only like 2.4 amp draw versus a 5+ amp draw on the regular lights.
"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good. I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
i'm wondering if having a sizeable cap inline to the voltage input wire would help with current spikes when the lights are activated... (easier on the entire system)
Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
i'm wondering if having a sizeable cap inline to the voltage input wire would help with current spikes when the lights are activated... (easier on the entire system)
Not sure if he has that issue at all. I believe in his posts he addresses that and says that there are no dimming issues or anything. Not sure how they would spike the system when they draw half the amps of the oem lights.
"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good. I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
thinking of the initial draw to feed the ballasts durring startup. just like a TV, right when it's turned on, there's a current spike, and then it levels off (this happens within 1 second).
Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
^^ Have to agree. The ballasts must pump the voltage up momentarily (a few seconds??), enough to ensure the arc can be self-sustained. Their work is then done until the next arc start event. Once the gas is ionized & a conduction channel is established, the "keep alive" current drops significantly from the "start up" magnitude.
Cool development about the mechanically controlled high/low beam function. So the arc is still a fixed intensity and the light output is modulated based solely on the position of the arc w/r/t the reflector assembly.
Focustiva: Because I was told it was was impossible to fit a Focus bumper on a Festiva. In memory of Dean Allen - V8 Festiva 1955-2010
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