Garage Needed!?

[wrongfulleaf]

OK I live in KC, MO and really really need to change my inner tie rods. The problem with that is I have never done it before and that it is 6 degrees outside! I live in a duplex without a garage so I would be working under the shade tree (not so shady right now ). I don't have alot of cash but I would be willing to pay someone to use their garage for a few hours and to use their knowledge also. My e brake doesn't like to let go in this weather also and if we could check that out EVEN BETTER! I will be in the junk yard this weekend so I doubt I could do it this weekend unless it's late Saturday (but I believe I am meeting Wes) so next weekend would probably be best. I don't think it would take that long but at the same time I don't really know. The shop said it would be over $400 and I know the inner tie rods are like $30-$40 a piece so I said :thefinger:! Thanks in advance if anyone can help!

EDIT: Somewhere in the MO or in Kansas would be ideal but I am down for anything at this point!

[wrongfulleaf]

bump?

[lanemeyer14]

I feel your pain....somewhat anyway. I always have to use and clutter up my mom's garage since I live in an apt. complex. I'd love to do an engine swap on my car, but I know that's not gonna happen in her garage...plus, I don't have an engine lift. Hope someone can help you out. Any chance you could rent a storage space that has electrical hookups?

[wrongfulleaf]

I think if I really really begged I might be able to pull into my buddy's barn but at the same time I have no experience on tie rods (i don't think its going to be hard just not my forte). And like I said it's 6 outside lol! Thanks for the free bump

[sauce]

If you want to drive to east texas, I have a fully operational shop. haha. Thats a genuine offer.

[wrongfulleaf]

lol Thanks! If I still lived in Austin I would take your up on it but I doubt the Festy could make a 12 hour drive with the steering as clunky as it is.

[wrongfulleaf]

last bump

[Zanzer]

If you could make it to NC I would hook you up. It's a small car, just mail it to me with the parts and I'll mail it back fixed

[wrongfulleaf]

If you could make it to NC I would hook you up. It's a small car, just mail it to me with the parts and I'll mail it back fixed

LOL thanks zanzer! I personally would go to TX before NC but I guess it is a little closer and I used to live there........either way not going to happen for a garage

[Zanzer]

Just mail me the rack and the new tie rods and I'll install them for you. That's gotta be cheaper than $400. I hate to see people get taken advantage of at garages

[wrongfulleaf]

Do I have to take the rack off to change them? I know for shipping purposes but if I did it myself would I have to take the rack off? Like I said I have never done a inner tie rod switch I am more of a moderate engine guy and pro electronics guy

[Zanzer]

No, you don't have to pull the rack. The tire rod end screws off the tie rod. You hold the rod with one wrench and screw the end off with another wrench. Pretty simple really.

[wrongfulleaf]

No, you don't have to pull the rack. The tire rod end screws off the tie rod. You hold the rod with one wrench and screw the end off with another wrench. Pretty simple really.

But I need to go rent the "tie rod puller" tool right? I was told it was impossible without renting it. Or what some call a crows foot? Like I said I'm a total noob about these things But I won't be afterwards

[Zanzer]

You don't have to use the puller since you are installing new ends. I used a ball joint separator that's commonly called a "pickle fork" to separate mine. You can pick one up for $10 or they'll prolly loan you one too. They can sometimes damage the dust boot, but that doesn't really matter since you're installing new ones.

I've only owned the pickle fork for a couple of years now. Before that I just used an old school method my Dad taught me many moons ago. You'll need a big hammer and a smaller one. Place the large hammer behind the steering knuckle where the ball joint passes through it. This is used as an anvil for the knuckle to rest against. Now, while holding the large hammer against the steering knuckle, strike the opposite side (with the steering knuckle section between the 2 hammers) with the smaller one. Don't go wild and swing for the fences or anything but rap on it pretty good. After a few hits the tie rod end should pop loose from the steering knuckle. I've used this method for years and still do sometimes when the pickle fork doesn't seem to be working or acts like it could use some help.

Here's a pic of the tool:

[wrongfulleaf]

Do I have to take the rack off to change them? I know for shipping purposes but if I did it myself would I have to take the rack off? Like I said I have never done a inner tie rod switch I am more of a moderate engine guy and pro electronics guy

No No......Inner tie rods, see above. I was planing on changing the ends while I was there because I have read that at numerous places but I really need to know how to change the INNER tie rods. That is what is failing my inspection.