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Flat Tappet cams & modern oil

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  • Flat Tappet cams & modern oil

    Thought I would start a thread on the issue, since a lot of us still have older vehicles with flat tappet cams, and even our beloved Festivas have basically a flat tappet design. Since we don't have actual "lifters" that rotate, I would think the full sliding motion would be even more susceptible to cam wear.

    While oil shopping at Advance Auto today, I noticed Valvoline VR-1 Racing Full Synthetic. One of the benefits it stated was a higher level of zinc/phosphorus as an anti-wear additive for flat tappet engines. I did some research tonight and the results were interesting......

    Beginning in 2007, Federal mandates reduced the amount of zinc/phosphorus additives in off-the-shelf motor oils. The additives are not as important in modern roller cam engines, but are critical in older flat tappet engines to prevent cam wear. They become more important for the more aggressive profiles of performance cams, especially during new cam break-in. There is a lot of discussion on the web about this topic, and I found a very good thread on a Chevelle enthusiast website. One of the members did multiple oil analysis on different brands to determine the actual ppm of zinc/phosphorus and compared it to the minimum recommended amounts by the aftermarket camshaft manufacturers. Below is the link.



    The Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic was around $7.49/Qt., which is right in line with Royal Purple, but the VR-1 Conventional should be more cost effective. The VR-1 is touted to also contain an excellent detergent package. The "NSL" has higher levels of zinc but contains low levels of detergents (good for break-in but not good for everyday use) Chevron Delo (diesel oil) is an alternative, but I'm not sure of the effects on O2 sensors and catalytic converters. The combustion of the additives produces ash, which could cause problems. It may be best suited for break-in use as well. The Roush oil says it's formulated for extended protection for passenger vehicles. It seems I read somewhere that proper blending of the additives will reduce the ash production, making it safer for modern sensors and cats and maintain the zinc levels in the oil for extended protection. I think I'll "fill 'er up" with VR-1 Synthetic when I next change my oil. It may be expensive, but when you only need 3-1/2 quarts you may as well go for the best.
    Brian

    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
    Not enough time or money for any of them

  • #2
    Brian, Good post and effort did it say or recommend a change interval.Our oil choice was Kendal GT1 until they lowered there Zink levels now we use Valvoline 20/50 spring--fall and 50 for summer heat.
    An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

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    • #3
      I used to run Walmarts supertech synthetic in my Tbird back in the day. I was up at the drag strip with it once when one of the lash adjusters came apart. When I took the VC off the cam was pretty much wiped out. This is when I became educated on ZDDP and oil. The car now has a roller cam and I use Rotella T synthetic, its supposed to be some of the best stuff out there or something.
      91GL BP/F3A with boost
      13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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      • #4
        Originally posted by sc72 View Post
        Brian, Good post and effort did it say or recommend a change interval.Our oil choice was Kendal GT1 until they lowered there Zink levels now we use Valvoline 20/50 spring--fall and 50 for summer heat.
        Oil manufacturers will always tell you to go with the engine manufacturer's oil change interval. A lot of it has to do with the oil filter.
        Brian

        93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
        04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
        62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

        1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
        Not enough time or money for any of them

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        • #5
          Good info. You can also buy a zinc additive for the new oil but it's pricey. I didn't know about this problem until a friends 70 Fastback ate 2 new cams in the 351C. He got educated pretty fast. He has since said to heck with it and the last cam he installed is a roller.

          Does anyone know of an off the shelf non detergent oil?? It used to be really common and I always used it for break in oil but now it seems that it's as easy to find as chicken lips. When I rebuild my 429 I had to resort to running Wolf's Head ND 30 compressor oil for break in. I wasn't crazy about it but it's all I could find and it worked great. But now even that it almost non existent.
          If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




          WWZD
          Zulu Ministries

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          • #6
            I have always used lubriplate as an assembly and cam lube , it stay put long enough for oil to get through the gallies as it can take as long as 2 minutes for oil to get dispersed. It then mixes with the oil to offer the best wear resistance of any assy. lubes . Never use moly based lubes , even if provided with a new cam. I've rebuilt many new engines that did'nt live long only find to kitty litter dirt, metal shavings , shop rags, incorrect clearances , but most of all clumps of grey moly lube plugging oil passages! To be frank , most reasons for premature cam failure is installer error! The last 13 years or so i've assembled over 500 engines and never had a problem.
            Last edited by mattdickmeyer; 03-27-2010, 02:23 PM. Reason: missed a word
            PROPOGATE! AND FACILITATE!

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            • #7
              Ah, Lubriplate, the lube of choice for the U.S. Rifle, M1 (Garand).



              Karl
              '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
              '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
              '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
              '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
              '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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              • #8
                + Eleventybillion on the Lubriplate!!! (I thought I was the only one who used this stuff LOL).

                That's all we've ever used (for the last 30+ years). It stays in gel form until it gets hot and then turns to oil. This is long enough for the oil to circulate through the engine and take over it's intended purpose.

                I rebuilt a 351 Windsor using Lubriplate and then put it on the shelf for 6 years. When it was finally installed in the car and fired up it was just like it was built yesterday. It stays put for a long time and does it's job until you need it to dissolve. :thumbup:

                I've seen the gooey assembly lubes like Snake Oil and such run off after sitting for long periods and leave lobes almost dry. I also fill the oil pump with Lubriplate since you don't have to worry about it draining out
                Last edited by Zanzer; 03-27-2010, 02:41 PM.
                If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




                WWZD
                Zulu Ministries

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