BPT/RT Noob Questions

[RichardLSU]

The festy I'm currently working on is a 92' with 90K on the original B3. The motor runs strong so the first things I'm going to do is just work on the suspension and make it handle better. If it ain't broke don't fix it right?

In the mean time I would like to source a BP to install whenever the B3 does decide to give up the ghost. And if it takes a while I can just beef up the BP while it sits in the garage.

My questions are these:

Will I be able to use the stock transmission or will I have to go with a G25MR? I guess those are out of the 323 GTs and XR2 Capri's right? Any other cars they might be in that I could source one from? What about the Escort GT or Protege LX tranny?

Second, I've seen plenty of guys one here bolting turbos and rear turbo setups onto their BP/B6 engines. Have any of you all done anything internally to the engines or is it all stock? Can the BP handle 10lbs of boost on a regular basis on stock internals? What about the injectors? More air needs more fuel right? What are you all doing to compensate for this?

Lastly, these rear-turbo setups I've been following, what are the advantages to that other than being able to keep your A/C? I would like to keep (well, install rather) A/C on my car (Louisiana is just too hot to be without it) and it seems like the perfect solution. But what about turbo-lag? I suppose if it is on a stock engine with stock compression that wouldn't be an issue and if that's the case does the turbo come on as one big lump of torque halfway through the curve or what? Are there any disadvantages to having the turbo so far away from the engine (e.g. length of the pipe effecting pressure, etc..)

I apologize if these questions seem elementary but I've done quite a bit of searching before I asked. Plus, you guys are experts on this! Thanks!

[getnpsi]

When eurotiva gets off work he will give you 100% of what you need. LOL "all kinds of rear turbo cars," I think he built 3 of them and just hams them all over the site with good pics and info. The escort GT is a protege tranny. All blocks do bolt to the stock transmission but they will fail if not driven perfectly. If i recall right there are people who leave in second gear when they race but they sound like they have 10 spare transmissions in a barn LOL

I have not driven a turboed festiva yet but I'd take turbo lag over lack of torque all over lag anyday.

[RichardLSU]

Yeah, I read through his BP/RT build thread which is what got me thinking.

[getnpsi]

while you're researching you should read up on boosting that 318 heh

[Maxtiva]

Will I be able to use the stock transmission or will I have to go with a G25MR? I guess those are out of the 323 GTs and XR2 Capri's right? Any other cars they might be in that I could source one from? What about the Escort GT or Protege LX tranny?

The 323GT 88/89 and Capri XR2 91/94 tranny are G5M-R and they are cable operated clutch. The Escort GT and Protege GT are G25M-R and they are hydro clutch if you want to use this one you need to make an adapter to convert it to cable or you need to convert you car to hydro clutch. If you use one of those tranny you need to find the halfshaft from the 323GT or Capri XR2 they are the only one that work. Hope that help.

[RichardLSU]

Definitely Maxtiva. I'm just trying to get a parts list together.

[RichardLSU]

SO, it would be easiest to go with a G5MR rather than the G25 because I would have to make an adapter or convert the car.

Any other advantages/disadvantages from one to the other?

[TominMO]

AFAIK there are only two rear-turbo Festys in existence, Greg's and mine (which he built).

Stock trannies work fine with BPs as long as you are not inexperienced at drag-racing, where wheel hop becomes an issue and starts breaking things. Casper has a stock Festy tranny in it, and he has been taken to the 1/4 mile a lot lately. But for a BP-T, I don't know. Lotsa power there for that little tranny to deal with. A BP-T should make around three times stock WHP.

I don't drag mine, just stomp on it when the car's already moving, so little or no danger of breaking stuph. Mine actually makes slightly more WHP than Casper too, as proven when both cars were dynoed. It's a B6 (1.6 SOHC 8 valve) with the stock Festy 5-speed, and a better clutch.

If you take care of it, your B3 should break in about 10-20 years, so you will have lots of time to fix up the BP!

[eurotiva]

Hey Richard. I'll have some more time tonite to answer your questions.

[RichardLSU]

TominMO: Yeah from what I understand these little motors are bulletproof. I figure thats a good thing because I won't have to sink alot of money at once into this project, I can just do little things as they come along and prepare for the day when the new motor goes in. As far as the transmission goes I'm asking because I figured with that much more power that little thing probably wouldn't be able to handle it, at least for very long. Plus, if I've already got the engine out why not do the transmission at the same time? I figure if your going to do something you should do it once and do it right.

Eurostiva: Thanks, I'm looking forward to your wisdom.

[Slyder]

RichardLSU please add your location that way people near by may be able to help you out if needed.

[eurotiva]

you have a pm

[resuwrecked]

My engine is stock. The bp come through with piston oil jets so its like it was born for it. Ha. You can run 20psi on a stock bp if you want. Its all in the tune. Stock injectors are typically good for around 8-10 psi when using a 12:1 fmu. That also depends on what turbo you are using as 10psi on a vj11 is not the same as 10psi with a larger 3/4 hybrid. I am using a t3 from a late 80's saab 900. At only 7-8 psi I'm a little on the lean side for my liking, but since I have a decent intercooler and MSD BTM it is safe for daily beating. As far as doing a rear mount to have room for a/c, it all depends on how you build your kit. I have room to mount my ac compressor and everything with the turbo hanging off the cyl head. Rear mount is fine, you just have to run a lot longer oil lines and a pump obviously. I only have about 2' of oil supply line, 1' return to the pan and no pump. You don't need to find/build a manifold if you do a rear one.

Hey Greg I was thinking, I would port the manifold outlet because I noticed that right at the outlet it really necks down.

[eurotiva]

My engine is stock. The bp come through with piston oil jets so its like it was born for it. Ha. You can run 20psi on a stock bp if you want. Its all in the tune. Stock injectors are typically good for around 8-10 psi when using a 12:1 fmu. That also depends on what turbo you are using as 10psi on a vj11 is not the same as 10psi with a larger 3/4 hybrid. I am using a t3 from a late 80's saab 900. At only 7-8 psi I'm a little on the lean side for my liking, but since I have a decent intercooler and MSD BTM it is safe for daily beating. As far as doing a rear mount to have room for a/c, it all depends on how you build your kit. I have room to mount my ac compressor and everything with the turbo hanging off the cyl head. Rear mount is fine, you just have to run a lot longer oil lines and a pump obviously. I only have about 2' of oil supply line, 1' return to the pan and no pump. You don't need to find/build a manifold if you do a rear one.

Hey Greg I was thinking, I would port the manifold outlet because I noticed that right at the outlet it really necks down.

Hahaha I did!!! :lol:

[resuwrecked]

It is all big and open where the runners collect then it necks waaay down. Silly.

Well good I'm glad you noticed that too.