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Throttle Control For Cold Morning Festivas
Throttle Control For Cold Morning Festivas page 1 of 4
….After listening to those of us (on here ) who are having cold morning idling problems, including myself, I decided to give the problem some thought. This is a stopgap fix for manual transmissions, NOT intended for automatics. You will still have to pump the accelerator pedal many times before turning the key to start. Which means this fix does NOT fix the choke but what it does do is to allow your engine to continue to stay running once it starts with your foot off the accelerator and then you can adjust your RPM's accordingly until it runs long enough to WARM UP and be on your way normally.
This is what I did:
1.) Drilled a 3/32” hole approximately 2” down from were the throttle cable attaches to the accelerator pedal through the fire wall ( right at the top of the groove in the center of the pedal, as close as possible, see pic.
2.) Then I cut off a piece of solid wire cable (1/16” dia.) from the OLD cable control I had on hand ( see pic ) approximately 3” or so and made a HOOK that would go through the 3/32” hole made in the accelerator pedal. Make the hook long enough and round enough at the radius so it will go through the pedal with force, and once in place it will lock itself there. Once the hook is done, on the other end you want to make it round twice about 3/16” in dia. ( so there is NO chance the spring will jump out) and try to keep the round end and the hook end as close together as possible about 1” (see pic.).
3.) Spring, you will have to do some experimenting here. I though I had a strong enough spring but didn't, then I went to a slightly shorter, but stronger, spring, about 2 1/4” long X 3/8” to 1/2” dia. That is working OK for now but I will replace it with an even stronger spring still. You may have to close the ends of your spring that you use in a complete loop ( so it can't come off the control cable). (see the pics. and you should get some idea)
4.) The control cable I attached below the radio and next to my right leg to an existing support recess and screw hole but does NOT interfere with my leg (see pic) . Also used the existing large flat washer that was there to fill the existing screw hole RECESS in mounting the control bracket. Also, replaced the existing SCREW with a longer one, approximately 1/4” longer same thread dia.
…. You will have to FIT and CUT your cable control to size based on the (pics.) as an outline. I did my best to keep the cable to the RIGHT side of the accelerator pedal so it does NOT interfere with the pedal STOP adjustment bolt (see pic.). Once you have the control bracket mounted and the cable correctly sized you will need to put another, approximately, 3/16” round loop (Twice) on the end of the control cable to connect to the other end of the spring coming from the pedal.
5.) You will notice in the last (pic.) I used a small cable clamp with two adjustment nuts, that is because there was NOT enough resistance in my control cable to hold a given position. So I put this clamp on the control cable and kept tightening up until I had enough resistance to hold a given position. The white material that you see in the pic is the glue from the DUCK TAPE that was used to keep from burning my leg on those long trips.
NOTE: This is NOT an easy fix to apply working under the dash like I have done. You will twist yourself in all kinds of directions and never finding a comfortable position not to mention the patience you need which are most necessary.
.... If I had reliable information about this carburetor I would prefer to just fix the choke and be done with it. But until that happens I guess we will have to settle for stopgaps similar to this.
This solved my immediate dilemma, wish you the best.
...
….After listening to those of us (on here ) who are having cold morning idling problems, including myself, I decided to give the problem some thought. This is a stopgap fix for manual transmissions, NOT intended for automatics. You will still have to pump the accelerator pedal many times before turning the key to start. Which means this fix does NOT fix the choke but what it does do is to allow your engine to continue to stay running once it starts with your foot off the accelerator and then you can adjust your RPM's accordingly until it runs long enough to WARM UP and be on your way normally.
This is what I did:
1.) Drilled a 3/32” hole approximately 2” down from were the throttle cable attaches to the accelerator pedal through the fire wall ( right at the top of the groove in the center of the pedal, as close as possible, see pic.
2.) Then I cut off a piece of solid wire cable (1/16” dia.) from the OLD cable control I had on hand ( see pic ) approximately 3” or so and made a HOOK that would go through the 3/32” hole made in the accelerator pedal. Make the hook long enough and round enough at the radius so it will go through the pedal with force, and once in place it will lock itself there. Once the hook is done, on the other end you want to make it round twice about 3/16” in dia. ( so there is NO chance the spring will jump out) and try to keep the round end and the hook end as close together as possible about 1” (see pic.).
3.) Spring, you will have to do some experimenting here. I though I had a strong enough spring but didn't, then I went to a slightly shorter, but stronger, spring, about 2 1/4” long X 3/8” to 1/2” dia. That is working OK for now but I will replace it with an even stronger spring still. You may have to close the ends of your spring that you use in a complete loop ( so it can't come off the control cable). (see the pics. and you should get some idea)
4.) The control cable I attached below the radio and next to my right leg to an existing support recess and screw hole but does NOT interfere with my leg (see pic) . Also used the existing large flat washer that was there to fill the existing screw hole RECESS in mounting the control bracket. Also, replaced the existing SCREW with a longer one, approximately 1/4” longer same thread dia.
…. You will have to FIT and CUT your cable control to size based on the (pics.) as an outline. I did my best to keep the cable to the RIGHT side of the accelerator pedal so it does NOT interfere with the pedal STOP adjustment bolt (see pic.). Once you have the control bracket mounted and the cable correctly sized you will need to put another, approximately, 3/16” round loop (Twice) on the end of the control cable to connect to the other end of the spring coming from the pedal.
5.) You will notice in the last (pic.) I used a small cable clamp with two adjustment nuts, that is because there was NOT enough resistance in my control cable to hold a given position. So I put this clamp on the control cable and kept tightening up until I had enough resistance to hold a given position. The white material that you see in the pic is the glue from the DUCK TAPE that was used to keep from burning my leg on those long trips.
NOTE: This is NOT an easy fix to apply working under the dash like I have done. You will twist yourself in all kinds of directions and never finding a comfortable position not to mention the patience you need which are most necessary.
.... If I had reliable information about this carburetor I would prefer to just fix the choke and be done with it. But until that happens I guess we will have to settle for stopgaps similar to this.
This solved my immediate dilemma, wish you the best.
...
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