What's the best soldering setup for Festiva work?

[Safety Guy]

What do you all run for soldering? I'm ready to begin upping my electrical game now and I want to solder my electrical connections for better...well, connectivity!

So I'm wondering what would be best for a beginning solderer. I've done some in the past but it's been awhile and I'm sure I wasn't that good.

Pictures welcome, too!

Karl

[bravekozak]

connectors

I just bought a large bunch of brass terminals and Sumitomo connectors from Eastern Beaver.

With the proper Hero noninsulated terminal crimp tool + removers + a bunch of AWG wire in all sorts of colors from eBay, I have started adding all kinds of additional circuits that look stock.

electric gas door popper, power locks, power windows, Kamei armrest cooler, power antenna, under dash lighting, etc.

Good luck soldering

[Safety Guy]

Hey! Those connectors look a lot like what I'd use on my IAC valve splice so I could just connect/disconnect it when I do an engine swap (or swap back to a B3). Eventually, all my cars' IAC wires (one large, one small) would end in connectors for easy swapping.

I do have an electrical/crimping tool. It's made by Klein and should handle most smaller gage wires. I have a HF wire spool assortment on a little rack. I also have various terminal ends and plenty of shrink to fit covers. Just bought me some 3M "moisture sealing electrical tape" a couple hours ago.

When using these connectors, would you not also solder them for better connectivity?

Karl

[NicholasJackson]

Yes finally a post i can help answer... damn mechanics. Ok so.

I personally think the best setup is a soldering iron around 25 - 35 watts, any higher than that it starts to burn the tip and you'll go through a lot of solder.

Next heat shrink is a must for connections you know will be permanent, starts to get messy if you make a mistake then you have to cut it and re-shrink it.

And also as said above a crimp set is perfect for the non permanent connections.

Happy soldering.

[sasquatch]

i have a set of channel lock's like this:



it pays to buy good stuff, if you buy a cheap one for like 5 bucks you may think your getting a good deal but i have broken and bent a bunch of them, they just dont last... i got these for 25 bucks (cheap for what your getting...) and i havnt had a single problem with them in the 2 years i have had them... the cheap ones flex like crazy when you use them and are just junk these ones are ALOT stronger cause they use alot thicker steel and i think they are "hardend" too but i could be wrong...

then a black and decker soldering iron like this one:



the iron is good the only thing i dont like about it is that it takes a bit of time to warm up, but im always saying stuff isnt fast enough so maybe its just me lol...

for connectors i use princess auto ones... (canada only ) they are ok quality and are cheap the only thing i really use them for tho is on the back of switches, i NEVER use butt connectors, not ONE is in my car i have never liked them cause they allways fail if i need to make a quick connection i just wrap the wires together and tape them up, i trust that more than a butt connector...

when doing my standalone in my car i used alot of solder, shrink wrap and tape... and im glad i did cause i trust it 100% im glad i dont have to do it again, do it once and do it right...

[crazyrog17]

If money is no object and you want the most versatility...

http://www.mactools.com/product/tabi...04-st150b.aspx

Get a butane soldering iron. No cord! Warms up extremely fast. Wide range of 30W-125W of heat. Great for those HUGE connections of low gauge wire (like in remote start/ignition wires).

Another plus is you can use the exhaust vent to finish the heat shrink.

[xaero_81]

i have a set of channel lock's like this

These are a lifesaver when it comes to short cut wires. Very easy to control.

[sasquatch]

If money is no object and you want the most versatility...

http://www.mactools.com/product/tabi...04-st150b.aspx

Get a butane soldering iron. No cord! Warms up extremely fast. Wide range of 30W-125W of heat. Great for those HUGE connections of low gauge wire (like in remote start/ignition wires).

Another plus is you can use the exhaust vent to finish the heat shrink.

i had one of these and they are AWESOME to use but they are a bit of $$$ to run when you need to do alot of wiring that can add up... and if you need to leave it going for a while when you get your next connection ready its just wasting energy... a electric one cost alot less to run... if you are in a rush or dont have power in that spot they are a life saver

These are a lifesaver when it comes to short cut wires. Very easy to control.

ya they just fit the hand VERY nice and are easy to use... WELL worth the money

[Safety Guy]

I'm thinking the Channel Locks and the Black & Decker iron kit sometime this week. I'll start surfing for prices.

I'll also check out youtube "how to" videos, etc. If anyone can recommend a good online guide to soldering (written or video), lemme know.

Thanks guys!

Karl

[FestYboy]

Karl. if you know you'll be doing ALOT of soldering, pony up the $$ and invest in a Weller adjustable unit:

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103059963

or:

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103191311

(this is what i used when still in the electronics buisness)

[Biff]

I agree, if 110 volts are handy, the pencil type solder iron is great.

[Safety Guy]

Apparently, my local Sears should have that Weller unit for $50. That is about what it would cost to order one cheaper (after shipping).

I'll put that on my post Christmas list.

Karl