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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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Originally posted by neanderpaul View PostSwapped the back bumper with beastly built in trailer hitch for stock. Pulled the custom trailer wiring harness out. Put stock tail light wiring harnesses back in. Pulled my 15" tenzo's. Painted a set of aspire steelies. Installed a new set of 13"s on those stock aspire steelies. Cream puff is getting closer to ready to deliver. I fully expect my LONG time friend and new owner to join up.
Today at lunch I got about 1/2 way through with the rear brakes on Danny's car, driver side adjuster was stuck so had a fun time getting the drum off :lol: Its all good now though, just gotta finish it up tomorrow and then install the ECUNo festiva for me ATM...
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^^sounds like you got some of my luck lol
Originally posted by Flyin4stroke View Post^we gotta teach u the card trick! Looks good for a quicky.
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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I got a gas door. It's inside the car with the grill and valve cover that got painted also. It's alot more metallic than I expected. Just have to do the black around the windows then I can put the motor back in!
Paul, let the air out of the tires. Then take a stack of business cards and stick them into the wheel between the rim and tire all the way around. Waa laa no more overspray!
Eurotiva showed me this when I still had steel wheels.1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI
1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow
1996 Ford F-150
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^I heard PAM works too, anyway, I've decided I need to un stick my ebrake, it's always been a little sticky, but our recent cold weather has made it so I am laughed at as my car squeals through the school parking lot, SO I found the thread explaining what siezes, I pulled the rear wheel today and have found that it is definetly very stuck on the bit inside the drum, I will check with the school shop tomorrow to see if I can leave it there overnight while I got some PB blaster working on it. I will probably do the rear bearings while I have the drum off, and probs new shoes too. Any recomendations on the brakes or bearings as far as brands?
Also, the Timken's listed on Rock auto, do they include everything I need, or do I need to get races too or something like that?Last edited by kellen302; 01-25-2012, 08:15 PM.Owner of:
1991 Red Festiva L, 5 speed (Swagger Wagon)
In progress:
BP+G25MR swap, Kia rio axles hopefully.
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type of grease seems to make more of a difference than brand of bearing.
proper set up of bearing seems to make more of a diff than type of grease.
Correct seals seem to make more of a diff than bearing set up.
using proper tools seems to make more of a diff than brand of bearing..Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
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^^ I'm now thoroughly confuzzled, for doing my rear brakes is it necessary that I do the bearings, they do not make any noise, also It appears that I have to take the outer bearing off to take off the drum off to check brakes, if someone could just PM me a rundown on what is necessary to do to get inside the drum and free up the ebrake and probs replace shoes that'd be sweet, also if someone could gimme a link to the parts that I'll need, on Rockauto it's not clear if the Timken bearing is both inner and outer, or just outer or has a seal or if I need the seal,
Wow that was a lot, thanks heaps
KellenOwner of:
1991 Red Festiva L, 5 speed (Swagger Wagon)
In progress:
BP+G25MR swap, Kia rio axles hopefully.
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