What have you done to your Festiva today!?

[firebush357]

We worked on my Little Brother car this weekend. Filled the Trans up with some new Syncromesh and put a new battery in it. We went to reinstall the headlights and bumper cover but stopped at the headlights because they were quite rusty, we decided to blast them and throw on a couple layers of Rustoleum. We did start the car for the first time in a couple months... It has a Vacuum leak somewhere that I have yet to find and it is still running on old crappy gas so it misfires quite a bit while idling. The one thing that worries me is that when we turn it off I can here a hissing coming from either the fuel filter or the Brake Master Cylinder/Booster area for a couple of seconds almost like something has a vacuum leak.

[greywolf200]

the inside of the fuel door on the GTX was pretty yuck. luckily Rustoleum has a paint that is an exact match of the cars red paint. spent a lot of time sanding around and under the hinge. 2 coats each of Sunrise Red and clear lacquer. i removed the original decal with a razor blade, scanned it and then printed it onto an adhesive return address label. not sure what it says. "Unleaded Rice Only" ?

Cool,,,

[F3BZ]

man if ida known what an PIA this was gonna be. i wanted to remove the windshield trim to refinish and also to get rid of the hard hazy scale that built up on the window on the edges of the trim. also, even though they did a pretty good job masking the car before painting, they over masked the trim mold so a thin dark line was visible on the pillars, cowl and roof edge. just figuring out how to get the molding off was a 2 hr experiment with a home made tool. turns out that mazda puts the plastic clips on the post before they lay the butyl gasket for the windshield. this makes the clips embed in that rubber and i destroyed every one getting them off the post.
kind of a cruddy mess under the trim. 28 years of dirt and caked wax had to be cleaned out with toothbrush and the blackish buildup i had to sand off carefully not to scuff the good paint. (1st pic) the rest was easy. mask and spray. got lucky finding a perfect match with a Rustoleum color. (2nd pic).
also did the wiper post tray while i was being ambitious and it's a 70 deg. day in feb! (3rd pic)
just wish i had the balls and tools to take off the cowl panel. i might try to clean and paint the plenum area through the wiper access covers if possible.

[FoMoCoMotion]

Spent the day getting the engine back together. Got it sat in; hopefully can have get wired and back together this weekend. =)
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[Meepersly]

We worked on my Little Brother car this weekend. Filled the Trans up with some new Syncromesh and put a new battery in it. We went to reinstall the headlights and bumper cover but stopped at the headlights because they were quite rusty, we decided to blast them and throw on a couple layers of Rustoleum. We did start the car for the first time in a couple months... It has a Vacuum leak somewhere that I have yet to find and it is still running on old crappy gas so it misfires quite a bit while idling. The one thing that worries me is that when we turn it off I can here a hissing coming from either the fuel filter or the Brake Master Cylinder/Booster area for a couple of seconds almost like something has a vacuum leak.

Brake booster I'm willing to put money on it if you can hear it while you have a vacuum leak. Try plugging the brake booster vacuum line and see if the leak stops.

Sent from my Z963VL using Tapatalk

[firebush357]

Brake booster I'm willing to put money on it if you can hear it while you have a vacuum leak. Try plugging the brake booster vacuum line and see if the leak stops.

Sent from my Z963VL using Tapatalk

I'll try, thanks

[Greywolf]

Took the new rubber for a spin at all speeds - smooth as glass, but a little "slammy" on bumps (55 PSI).

Found a wire that had scraped bare and broke out the "Anti Crispy Critter Kit", it's protected again.

If anyone knows a way to remove the cowl vent panel on one of these - I can possibly salvage another car. As far as I know they are welded in though...

I'm getting ready to outright dive right into the blue car as the weather warms up. What will happen with the intercooler I still have no idea - but a car without A/C in Memphis TN is totally unacceptable.


F3BZ: Lookup "AUVECO" to see if they have the trim fasteners you need.

~Should be in section 17 of their online catalog PDF

[FestYboy]

Grey, it's a half dozen spot welds that holds the front lip of the cowl. Grab the appropriate drill bit and go to town.

[bravekozak]

Use spot weld drill bits only. They will give you a flat shallow cut.

[FestYboy]

Yeah! What he said, those! :p

[firebush357]

We put Coilovers on the Rear of my brothers car so that his new wheels would fit as well as some new struts for the front.

We had a a terrible time getting the rear strut mount bolts out... I ended up using the torch to get them to even move and then they just ruined the threads inside the captive nut so then we had to cut them out and drill the captive nut out and just go get some new bolts and nuts.

Once all of that was done we took it for a test drive down the road a bit. I think it may need a new Water Pump though because we only went about a mile down the road and back and the radio making boiling noises when we got back.

The hood that I painted with Rattle Cans looks good from far away but once you get close to it you can start to see stripes and there is some trash in the paint but it isn't bad for something I did in the back yard for about $15.

[TorqueEffect]

Drove it to work, and then after work the starter solenoid stuck on me for the very first time, couple hits with the wooden end of a hammer on the started unstuck the solenoid.

Pretty distinct sound, I heard the starter motor whirring very faintly when turning the key, but no click of the solenoid. Besides the axles, the starter motor is the only other original part out of my entire drivetrain, been used on 3 different engines, two different stock 5-speeds.

[Robalan]

Oil and oil filter change, new fuel filter and air filter. Pretty basic


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[TorqueEffect]

Un-kinked the fuel return hose, I think this was the cause of my excessive fuel consumption.

BP is definitely feeling more peppy, but now it stumbles on acceleration from first gear when cold, quite possibly this is because the fuel pressure solenoid isn't hooked up. Which I hear is to close off or minimize fuel flow to the return fuel line when the engine is cold. The BP guide says there is a light brown plug underneath the wiper motor for the PRC, but I see no such plug.

[TorqueEffect]

Ordered a bunch of stuff from FourGreen, and a couple things off eBay.

On ebay I ordered 3ft (Shortest I could find) of 3/4" silicon vacuum hose for the IAC. The guy who sold me the BP swap was using a heater hose for some reason, and it just immediately collapses under vacuum choking the engine at idle. Also an aftermarket 5-speed metal shift knob, and a 2.5" shifter extender to bring the civic shortshifter back up to the Festiva's stock height.

Now for the stuff I ordered from FourGreen.

1 KK1426431009 CONSOLE ASSEMBLY-FRONT - $24.43 (Full Shifter Console)
2 K817369470B89 HANDLE-ASSIST - $2.51 each (Oh s***! handles)
1 KK1351752009 KNOB - $3.81 (LXs only had these with the full consoles)
1 MDA0141711 PAD-ACCELERATOR PEDAL - $0.57 (Might not fit, looks right but listed under a different Hyundai/Kia)
1 KKY0167360 LINK ASSEMBLY-WIPER, FRONT - $21.19 (Wiper Transmission)
2 KKY0151274 LENS - $0.76 each (License Plate Light Lens)
2 KKY0143028A PAD-PEDAL - $1.14 each (Clutch/Brake)
1 KKY0155210B00 PANEL ASSEMBLY-CONTROL - $13.10 (Radio Bezel)
1 MD00156651A STAY-BONNET - $2.17 (Hood Prop)
2 KKY0166540 SWITCH ASSEMBLY-DOOR - $2.93 each (Dome light door switches)
1 KK15069220 MIRROR ASSEMBLY-REAR VIEW INSIDE - $10.86
2 KKY026842104 VESSEL-IN., LOCK - $0.38 each (Plastic things for the lock rod hole at the top of the door.)
1 KKA0151440 LAMP-CARGO ROOM - $6.57
1 MB09367366A CAP-SEALING - $0.38 (Rear wiper seal)
2 KKY0172310 LOCK-QUARTER WINDOW - $2.32 each
1 KK15042440A LOCK ASSEMBLY - $4.26 (Fuel door lock)
1 KDA0142450 PLATE ASSEMBLY-LOCK - $1.52 (Fuel door latch)
10 KKY0150609A CLIP - $0.38 (Windshield trim clips)
1 KK19067540 SWITCH ASSEMBLY-REAR WIPER & WASHER - $8.00
1 MD0015617X BOLT-JACK SET - $0.95 (I think this is the jack retainer bolt)
1 KKY0264351 BRACKET-FRONT CONSOLE, A - $0.50 (For the full shifter console)
1 KKY0264361 BRACKET-FRONT CONSOLE, B - $0.53
1 KKY0111408A PLATE - $1.14 (a/c crank pulley spacer)
1 KBJ0411403 PULLEY-CRANKSHAFT - $13.43 (Large nose a/c pulley)
2 MD00162873 RUBBER-STOPPER - $1.52 each (Rubber Hatch Stoppers)
1 KK13651766 EMBLEM- GTX - $1.90
1 MDA0176641 COVER-WIPER ARM - $0.57
1 KK15676641 COVER-WIPER ARM - $0.57
1 KKY0276641 COVER-WIPER ARM - $0.57

Sub Total: $143.94
Shipping: $51.66
Total: $195.60

Will post pics of stuff not pictured in the Fourgreen grab bag thread once I receive them.