BP power vs B6T power

[Gomez]

What kind of power could I expect to get from a well built BP (of course using aftermarket)? I just am not sold on turbo for my build. I have been thinking staying BP for that reason. There are just too many parts on a Turbo car and I am a simple kinda guy. Plus it is just a bigger motor. I like that.

Is a 200hp BP possible? What am I looking at? More? Less?

Pistons, Rods, Head/Cam work, exhaust, intake, ignition, fuel, really anything.

My last car build was really nice but it was a stock rebuild. This one will be anything but. I have at least 2 ideas that have not been done to a Festy yet. Tossing around the idea of the harder one because no one will ever see it but will be drooled over. The other might make the car ugly so not sure about it yet. Purposely trying to do new things here, but to tie it all together I need a motor choice.

Any help is much liked!!!

[Grey Vw]

Oops I thought you were comparing a turbo bp vs n/a bp.

If you want daily drive able 200whp turbo is the only way to go. It has potential to go way higher and remain streetable. Fastivab6tg25mr made 225hp on a stock BP+T, no engine build needed, just a turbo. Turbos are not complicated.


This why N/A is not the way to go. Quoted from there.
http://solomiata.com/CheapHP.html
"new "street" motor with the above plus 11:1 compression (10:1 2001 +.020" pistons, .026" deck and .010" head shave), lightened/balanced/knife-edged crank, 260 degree cam, adjustable cam sprockets, ported intake manifold, +2.5 mm throttlebody, aluminum underdrive pulley, programmable ECU, and using 4.778:1 rear gears just netted 160 hp at the rear wheels with 125 ft lbs torque at just 2500 rpm. This level of power was not plug 'n play, I tuned the ECU and cam sprockets for weeks. Additional costs beyond the 'cheap' level was about $3000 for an incremental 50 crank HP. So, for a total of about $4000 (not including the original 1.8 swap, my installation and tuning time, or the over $600 in dyno time tuning everything), I have nearly the same power as a supercharger or mid-level turbo kit. See why a turbo or supercharger kit is much more cost effective".

[kumalaba]

nitrous, but more costly in the long run! refills, engine damage, clutch upgrade mandatory im no expert on running festys with nitrous but my 5.0 mustang had all of these problems.

[GenevaDirt]

nitrous, but more costly in the long run! refills, engine damage, clutch upgrade mandatory im no expert on running festys with nitrous but my 5.0 mustang had all of these problems.

what....are you telling me not to use the nitrous on my Festy?? LOL

[Grey Vw]

You might blow the welds on your intake.

[Safety Guy]

I'm really not qualified to guess this, but I'd guess a moderately built BP would make around 160 to 170 hp without too many expensive mods, and be fairly drivable. To keep things even cheaper and simpler, go with an F series transaxle or Festiva ATX instead of the G series with hard to find mid axle shaft.

Just my pseudo-learned opinion.

Karl

[91_festy_Gl]

F-series FTW! I cant say to much about them. With a race clutch, the BP could throw everything it had at it and the tranny and clutch would take every bit of it. Not sure between cable or hydro, but the hydro was a nice setup.

[Gomez]

Thanks Grey Vw. Once again another ff.com member came through for me. I don't have a budget for this build but the BP seems like it may take me to one.

[TominMO]

A stock BP is 127 HP. Even with megasquirt and every possible engine mod and an unlimited budget, I doubt you'd see 200 HP. Turbo's the answer.

Greg is running 220 HP dynoed at the wheels, with megasquirt and a rear turbo on an otherwise stock (I think) BP. Without the turbo he'd be getting ~150 HP.

[anomoly40]

You might blow the welds on your intake.

Then you'd owe someone a 10 second car.

As far as bppower vs b6tpower, they were the same person and I didn't like either.

[blkfordsedan]

I would agree with a 150-160 crank HP range. I think with milled & home ported (mild) head, aftermarket cams, intake & header you could possibly acheive this goal with a stock shortblock. You could probably get by for around around $1000 if you do all the work yourself and using an F series would help reduce drivetrain loss. If you do some standard short block work (bored, shaved, higher compression pistons, balanced, etc.) you could get closer to the 160-170hp range, but you would be around $ $2000 and the stock ECU may not allow it. The article posted by Grey Vw is pretty much spot-on, but I think it could be done on a budget for a little less if you shop out the technical machine work, do the simple stuff yourself and shop around for the used aftermarket parts.

Either way, a stock EGT BP with j/y turbo setup would actually be less work, make better MPG and have better drivability.

[htchbck]

Then you'd owe someone a 10 second car.

As far as bppower vs b6tpower, they were the same person and I didn't like either.

ROFL!!!

But back to the topic at hand, turbo is the way to go to hit 200... If you could do that affordably/easily on an NA BP then there'd be a loooooot less turbo'd Miatas out there, trust me. Don't forget, Miata guys were building B6Ts waaay before we were dropping BP/B6T into festies. SoloMiata has a lot of good info, just ignore the RWD part of it

[postman101]

I see what you mean when you like simple things. I did have a 2005 focus with a turbo that made 230 to the wheels and it was fun. I do much more enjoy the sound and feel of a n/a car for some reason plus not spinning the tires when in driving 50km and flooring it is nice. I'm sure you can make the bp over 200hp NA but thats going to be way to expensive. I made mine net me 130whp with 2 1/4 exhaust and obx header ,ex-intake cam, and a maf from a mx3 v6.

[Damkid]

Stock BP vs. stock B6T, the B6T will win hands down, boost is the way to go for power

[getnpsi]

To get that smaller engine to find 200hp it wont be streetable, wont pass emissions will get terrible mileage, require better fuel. A turbo will get 80% or more of its original mileage and 99% of its street manners, and 91 octane is everywhere.

if you want to stay n/a make something with 2 liters or more fit. the kia 2.0 or the v6 that damkid runs. Even if i wasnt doingf all the work id rather pay a welder than an engine builder who puts rings in upside down and you are out thousands.