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  • Soldering 101

    I've basically been a carpenter for 24 years with other occupations mixed in there. I'm typically pretty good with most tools, but I absolutely struggle when it comes to soldering. I've tried different irons and solder with no luck. I would really like to make repairs and add accessories without using crimp connections. They are unsightly and not a permanent solution in my opinion. I've watched videos on Youtube and still can't get it work like on the videos. I'll hold the iron on the wire and put the solder to the wire without touching the iron, it just won't melt. The insulation on the wire starts melting. Anyone got any tips or tricks?
    Last edited by Eaglefreek; 09-01-2011, 07:34 PM.
    Rick
    1993 Ford Festiva
    1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
    1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
    2000 Ford E350

  • #2
    for auto wiring use the thinnest solder you can find, hold the iron at the bottom side edge of the wire and drag the solder from the iron onto the wire. once the solder melts into the wire, it should melt by holding the iron from the bottom, if needed keep feeding the solder into the melted pool.
    Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!

    Dennis
    93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
    91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
    93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
    15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
    88 Dakota tow pig

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    • #3
      you can not just use any solder....must use the stuff made for electrical. Unless you find fluxless solder you also must use flux first on the point to be connected.
      "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
      89L Silver EFI auto
      91GL Green Auto DD
      There ain't no rest for the wicked
      until we close our eyes for good.
      I will sleep when I die!
      I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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      • #4
        Eastern Beaver

        The connectors from Eastern Beaver are a slick alternative to the ordinary "crimp" connectors. The crimp terminals are identical to the Mazda ones and can be interchanged. I have done multiple buys with him, and am very pleased. The only soldering I prefer to do is for copper plumbing.

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        • #5
          Soldering is far more secure than crimping, though. Here's what to do:

          1- Strip a small bit (1/4" for thin wires, 1/2"+ for thicker) off the end of the two wires to be soldered.

          2- Cut a length of heat shrink tubing thats just a bit longer than the stripped part and slide it over one of the wires, making sure it is a good distance from the part to be soldered.

          3- Overlap the stripped sections of wire and twist the two wires together a bit. This is just to temporarily hold them in place.

          4- Place the end of the solder (rosin core, or at least leaded, if possible) in the center of the twisted wires. take your iron and hold the tip to the underside (bottom) of the said wires, opposite the solder. Wait for the heat from the wires to melt the solder, and evenly coat the connection with it.

          5- Slide the heatshrink tubing from earlier over the soldered connection. Take a lighter and quickly brush the flame tip under the heatshrink 2 or 3 times.

          6- do the other connections.
          1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
          Scrapped

          1991 Blue L 5-speed
          daily driver, intermittent project

          1993 rustless wonder
          A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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          • #6
            I have used flux core for electronics but it may have been too thick a diameter. Today, I think I may have been trying to use a fluxless solder without using flux. B_M, I realize it should be that easy, but I always struggle with #4. I don't have the steadiest of hands. Definitely couldn't be a neurosurgeon.
            Rick
            1993 Ford Festiva
            1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
            1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
            2000 Ford E350

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            • #7
              EagleFreek: you strugle with #4 because no one is telling you that you have to melt some solder onto the tip of the gun/pencil BEFORE placing it against the wire. doing so allows the heat to transfer through a larger contact point. Also, i prefer to add solder directly ABOVE the tip and then add and move the tip the length of the connection (makes things go along a bit faster and les chance of melting the wire jacket).
              Trees aren't kind to me...

              currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
              94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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              • #8
                Get a can of soldering paste. Put a dab on the joint with a small screwdriver. Melt the solder on the tip of the iron/gun, as much as it will hold. Then touch the joint for a few seconds. The molten solder will flow through the entire joint and not melt the insulation.

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                • #9
                  You have to get some solder on the iron before you put the iron to the wires. It'll transfer the heat and then you can melt the solder by just touching the hot wires.

                  If this still isn't working for you, maybe your soldering iron or gun is too small.

                  For all automotive applications, I use my harbor freight 40 watt soldering gun or the ultraportable, butane, up to 120 watts equivalent... matco soldering iron!


                  Of course, before you perfect your soldering, don't forget to slip on a little bit of heat shrink to one of the wires before you solder it together! Heat shrink makes it look pro fesh.
                  -Zack
                  Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                  • #10
                    D'oh, I forgot to mention he needed to tin the tip.

                    I prefer to use a high wattage (45W+) iron because it heats faster. Just be careful.
                    1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
                    Scrapped

                    1991 Blue L 5-speed
                    daily driver, intermittent project

                    1993 rustless wonder
                    A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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                    • #11
                      I've used different irons but my recent purchase is a 40 watt iron. I would attempt to tin the tip but it would roll right off without sticking. So I cleaned the tip with some sandpaper and it stuck and it made a world of difference.
                      Last edited by Eaglefreek; 09-04-2011, 09:05 PM.
                      Rick
                      1993 Ford Festiva
                      1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
                      1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
                      2000 Ford E350

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