Ended up buying the '90 Galant

[htchbck]

Well, they came back down on their price so I picked this lovely (and I don't mean that sarcastically either) '90 Galant with 165k on the clock



Yes, the wheels are14" and 114.3, and yes, they will be in the [FS] section as soon as I find some steelies to throw back on the car lol. I'll try to get some better pics up sometime soon, but other than a cracked taillight she is very clean inside and out. Power everything but door locks, even has DUAL analog trip meters, which I've never seen before. 2.0L SOHC auto. I bought it knowing the engine didn't run. Lady said it needed fuel injectors "and some other stuff I don't know much about". Whatever, bought it cheap enough even if I have to swap in a motor I can make a little back on it.

Well, so far I've found out that its the fuel pressure regulator that has an internal leak, not the injectors. Also, it has decent (not great, but decent for 165k) compression on all but one cylinder. That one won't even move the needle on my compression gauge. Maybe a busted con rod or a hole in the piston... idk lol. but I'll be looking further at it once Green Car and Babystiva are done with their upcoming repairs. But for what its worth its in awesome shape for a 20+ year old car other than the motor.

[eurotiva]

4g63 swap. Lots of parts and those motors are everywhere.

[htchbck]

As I understand it the 2.0 thats in it now is actually a SOHC 4G63? Is that correct. I don't plan on doing a swap unless its is pretty much as much of a bolt in as a B6 in a Festiva, since I really don't care much about the car other than making it reliable and selling it. No fabbing mounts or anything, or swapping harnesses.

[JPT]

Remember what I said about the drive plate? I don't want to scare you, but this is what happened to my Eagle Summit Wagon this past weekend.



If you swap motors, get a NEW drive plate (and new bolts). It's recommended whenever you remove the torque converter. They're less than 40 dollars. When I swapped engines, I should have bought a new one. Now, I wish I had.

[htchbck]

Thanks, I'll def keep that in mind. Pulled the valve cover off last night, and then the lifters. Pretty nasty in there, definitely a blown head gasket. Then I hit the offending cylinder with 150PSI from the compressor. Tons of air coming out the intake, so I'm guessing a broken intake valve. Also a little bubbling in the rad, so probably needs a head gasket too. I'm going to pick up a hex wrench today and pull the head, just to see what it looks like under there, but most likely I'll be saying adios to the current engine entirely, since I don't know what caused all the messy problems it seems to be having.

[91_festy_Gl]

I might be mistaken but maybe you could throw a GSX or TSI drive train under it and make a AWD. That would be pretty cool.

[htchbck]

I might be mistaken but maybe you could throw a GSX or TSI drive train under it and make a AWD. That would be pretty cool.

Probably could but...

I don't plan on doing a swap unless its is pretty much as much of a bolt in as a B6 in a Festiva, since I really don't care much about the car other than making it reliable and selling it. No fabbing mounts or anything, or swapping harnesses.

Most likely I won't have this car long, and I don't think the extra I might be able to get out of it as a AWD/turbo swapped car would come anywhere near justifying the extra expense and effort to do all that. I just want it back to original running condition and sell it as a commuter car thats decent on gas.

Anyone know offhand what kind of wrench I need on the head bolts? I can tell needs a hex key, but what size? I'd guess 10mm maybe?

[JPT]

I'm not sure about the 8 valve 2.0, but my 4g64 head bolts are 14mm. The Haynes manual says to check each bolt and measure them for stretch. Every DSM forum I've read says to forget this and buy new bolts.

When you replace the head, torque the bolts to 10 ft lbs less than spec, start the car and run it 'til it's warmed up, then shut it off and let it cool. Then re-torque the bolts to spec.

PS. When you do the drive plate, use red locktite.

[boydg1]

.... I wonder if this was caused by a broken timing belt. The millage and time would be about right.

Thanks, I'll def keep that in mind. Pulled the valve cover off last night, and then the lifters. Pretty nasty in there, definitely a blown head gasket. Then I hit the offending cylinder with 150PSI from the compressor. Tons of air coming out the intake, so I'm guessing a broken intake valve. Also a little bubbling in the rad, so probably needs a head gasket too. I'm going to pick up a hex wrench today and pull the head, just to see what it looks like under there, but most likely I'll be saying adios to the current engine entirely, since I don't know what caused all the messy problems it seems to be having.

[htchbck]

Nope, timing belt is not broken. Yesterday morning I was working on it a little more, and found that there was a shop rag stuffed in the intake in front of the throttle plate. Took that out and reran the compression tests (after temporarily throwing the rockers back on) and got 180s on all except the zero one. So I'm feeling a little more confident that I may be able to leave the block intact. Haven't dug up the comp specs yet to see how 180 stacks up, but on most of the jap 4 bangers I've dealt with thats decent enough. So once I get the head off (head bolts are 10mm socket cap screws so I'm going to make a wrench for it out of a 10mm socket and a cut off 10mm allen wrench) I'll hopefully either replace the head (likely) or rebuild this one with a new intake valve on cylinder #3 if everything else looks ok.

[htchbck]

Well, finally got Green Car and Chuck back on the road, so the Galant can now once again take front and center in the car area of my life. Finally got the head off and none of the valves are cracked. Ordered the HG set (Felpro for less than $50!) from RockAuto today. I think my compression problem was rust holding the intake valve open on one cylinder. I'm going to put it back together and see what I get. Found out 180 is great for comp, the specs are 139-189! So hopefully with a rebuilt head I'll be able to put it back on the road fairly easily, but we'll see. Replacing the timing belt too while I'm in there since it is an interference engine. Will report back with results

Did get the wheels for it though!

[boydg1]

.... Since you don't know the actual age or mileage of the timing belt I think replacing it is a good idea. Especially since it is an interference engine.
.

Well, finally got Green Car and Chuck back on the road, so the Galant can now once again take front and center in the car area of my life. Finally got the head off and none of the valves are cracked. Ordered the HG set (Felpro for less than $50!) from RockAuto today. I think my compression problem was rust holding the intake valve open on one cylinder. I'm going to put it back together and see what I get. Found out 180 is great for comp, the specs are 139-189! So hopefully with a rebuilt head I'll be able to put it back on the road fairly easily, but we'll see. Replacing the timing belt too while I'm in there since it is an interference engine. Will report back with results

Did get the wheels for it though!

[htchbck]

Definitely!

Still need to get two more 195/70R14 tires for it too, I have two already but the four ties on the wheels I picked up are 195/70R14, 185/70R14 (stock size), and two 185/65R14s, all cracked and very low tread, but still holding air enough to move around the yard, but not on the road. The tires on the wheels it came with were 3 nice Kumho 185/60R14s (all going on the Miata) and one crappy 185/65R14 Uniroyal. Hopefully this weekend I'll at least get my 2 good 195/70s mounted and the other 2 used wheels/tires on there too so I can get the rest of the 185/60s off for the Miata Then when the HG set gets here I'll install it, and maybe that will be the end of it

[kartracer46]

may be interested in the wheels if ya sell them

[htchbck]

Jay, the wheels are already spoken for, but I'll put ya next in line