Seafoam/oil treatment question

[Pu241]

When you drain oil from your Festiva a full half cup of the dirtiest oil remains in the bottom of the pan, below the level of the drain hole. I think it would be worth your time to take a vacuum pump or a battery filler, the kind with a bulb, attach a clear thin hose to it, insert in into the open drain hole at oil change times, and suck that crud out. You can use a wire inserted into the hose to form it so that it will curve down into that area of the pan.

Easier to jack up the front of the car for more complete draining and/or use a a solid/woven/tube of nylon, polypropylene, or polyethylene as a wick to be placed in the crankcase drain after the majority of the oil has drained out.

[JohnGunn]

I will get some and try it. We use purple as a pre-clean spray sometimes before putting parts in the dishwasher. Is the dawn pictured the right stuff?

That's it. You won't be sorry.

Thanks again to Iceracerdude, the original source of this tip.

[JohnGunn]

Easier to jack up the front of the car for more complete draining and/or use a a solid/woven/tube of nylon, polypropylene, or polyethylene as a wick to be placed in the crankcase drain after the majority of the oil has drained out.

I'm sure there are many ways to remove this sludge. To me, it's not important how it's done as long as you get as much as possible out. But, looking at the oil pan I have before me, it would take one hell of a lot of jacking to get out even a small fraction of that remaining sludge.

[Pu241]

But, looking at the oil pan I have before me, it would take one hell of a lot of jacking to get out even a small fraction of that remaining sludge.

Agreed, changing the angle of the drain port is going to completely drain the oil out. That is what the "wick" is for.
An none of that will get the sludge out.
Only dropping the the pan or frequent hot oil changes will help that.

[navdoc101]

^ I's oly loical, riht? God tip.

Huh!!!!! What the hell did you say?:eeeeeek:

[Bert]

A hundred years ago (1977) I put regular oil (with detergents in it!) in a horribly gunked-up used GM 350 V8 engine, with good compression, that I'd bought cheap. Motor was completely toast within a week as all the suspended garbage/sludge and metal filings came loose and ruined everything. Even the cam lobes wore round during that short interval!

Be very careful before you try saving or recovering neglected and/or dirty engines.

[getnpsi]

You dont put dirty underwear back on when you take a shower. If you are going to use some nasty solvents you should pull the oil pan and clean down (up) there. if not then lots of short intervals oil changes should show a difference. I'd hate to read that it didn't make it thru the winter and ate itself up.

[fitsbain]

havn't seen it mentioned, but one of the best old oils out there was quakerstate. But I'm talking back when it came in the cardboard "cans". Think I still have one around. The stuff is almost green in color from the zink and sulfer in it.

Not the same any more. The wells were sold to one company and the name to another.

That green oil is still available from a company call brad penn. (they bought the wells)

Best stuff out there. The guy that runs "Massive Type 4" (my other toy car) did lots of testing and studies with labs to prove it.
Its the only oil he recommends in the motors he builds.

After that Castrol GTX High Milage still has the most.

[firebush357]

I was told to add a Quart of ATF before an oil change and let it idle for about 10-15 minutes to clean up all of the gunk inside the engine. It seemed to quite the tapping noise I had going on a little bit.

[bhearts]

I always add diesel. Since it's so good at taking gunk off of everything. My buddy and their car lots maintenance shop has been known to drain oil, then add 5 quarts of diesel and letting it idle. Just because some engines get so neglected.

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[bhearts]

Which seems to be ok, since there's only a couple horsepower being used at idle speeds anyways

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