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  • aerodynamics question!

    Hi everyone! I need a lesson on aero. I know when they first design a car, they take aero into consideration along with engine size, gearing, etc.

    However, when modding a car (let's say my '10 Yaris hatch)....how do any aero improvements I do help? That is, at a certain mph (let's say 65), it's in 5th gear, and therefore the engine is turning at a specific rpm at that speed. So If I do any aero work, the engine will still be turning that specific rpm @ a given speed, will it not? So how would any improvements help?

    Does that make sense? Am I missing something?! (happens a lot!) lol

    I CAN see how the improvements would help while coasting, but then again my Yaris has deceleration fuel cutoff, so if I'm coasting in gear I'm using no gas anyway, but I guess I can coast for a longer distance.
    If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
    Mark S.

  • #2
    Aerodynamics has no connection to the engine RPM at all. Basicallly, all that aerodynamic improvements will do is decrease the power required to move through the air at any given speed. Less power = Less fuel consumption. In your case, lets say at 65mph your Yaris requires 12hp to maintain speed. If you add body mods, Yosemite Sam mudflaps, or whatever, and reduce the drag (or air resistance), it may only require 10hp to maintain a 65MPH cruise.

    To expand a little, an engine is a variable output device. At any given throttle opening, it will produce a specific amount of power. Depending on the resistance the motor experiences, the RPM will vary. If the resistance is less than the power output then the motor speeds up. If the resistance is more than the power output, the motor slows down. A prime example is when you're driving on the highway and have your foot set in a fixed position on the gas pedal. When you start going up hill, the car will slow down (unless you give it more gas). When you go back down hill, the car will speed up. The correlation between engine RPM and vehicle speed is fixed...because there is a physical link between the crankshaft and the road. The transmission gears and differential all change the relationship (i.e. ratios), but for any specific cranshaft RPM there is a specific and exact RPM that the wheel will turn. What that wheel RPM is depends on what gear your in. ****unless you have an automatic with a torque converter to slip, but that's a little more complicated and not important at this point.
    Last edited by blkfordsedan; 03-15-2012, 03:40 PM.
    Brian

    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
    Not enough time or money for any of them

    Comment


    • #3
      It requires less horsepower to maintain that speed....less throttle...which means less gas! RPM and fuel consumption don't necessarily coincide.....
      1986 Comp Prep SVO Mustang(1 of 83) Four cylinder turbo! (Think first Fox body "R" model!)
      1995 F-150 Extra Cab and it was free!
      1991 Festiva L, Surf Blue with A/C
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      1994 Brake Swap and it was cheap!
      1969 Ford F100 Big Block Ranger and it was free! (coming 2/12)

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      • #4
        Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
        Aerodynamics has no connection to the engine RPM at all. Basicallly, all that aerodynamic improvements will do is decrease the power required to move through the air at any given speed. Less power = Less fuel consumption. In your case, lets say at 65mph your Yaris requires 12hp to maintain speed. If you add body mods, Yosemite Sam mudflaps, or whatever, and reduce the drag (or air resistance), it may only require 10hp to maintain a 65MPH cruise.

        To expand a little, an engine is a variable output device. At any given throttle opening, it will produce a specific amount of power. Depending on the resistance the motor experiences, the RPM will vary. If the resistance is less than the power output then the motor speeds up. If the resistance is more than the power output, the motor slows down. A prime example is when you're driving on the highway and have your foot set in a fixed position on the gas pedal. When you start going up hill, the car will slow down (unless you give it more gas). When you go back down hill, the car will speed up. The correlation between engine RPM and vehicle speed is fixed...because there is a physical link between the crankshaft and the road. The transmission gears and differential all change the relationship (i.e. ratios), but for any specific cranshaft RPM there is a specific and exact RPM that the wheel will turn. What that wheel RPM is depends on what gear your in. ****unless you have an automatic with a torque converter to slip, but that's a little more complicated and not important at this point.
        First, I know aero aids DO help if done properly. The problem I'm having is how they do it.

        What I'm not understanding is this: Since a specific speed in a specific gear = a specific rpm (lets pretend 65 m.p.h / 5th gear = 2500 RPM), how does aero improve MPG? I've always understood that at X-rpm, the engine makes a specific amount of power. For instance, my Yaris makes 106 HP @ 6000 rpm. HP does not (as far as I know), increase or decrease at 6000 rpm; if it's revved to 6000 rpm, it's ALWAYS 106 HP. Not 100. Not 115. It's 106.

        So, for my 2500 rpm example, it makes X hp. Why would aero help m.p.g since the HP being created @2500 rpm has not decreased?

        My brain is not happy right now. I feel stupid, because I think I should know this.

        Of course, I may be over-thinking this and making it waaay more complex than needed. I tend to do that a lot too!
        If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
        Mark S.

        Comment


        • #5


          Notice that parasitic drag (aka skin friction) is proportional to the SQUARE of velocity.

          Induced drag is not really a factor until you add wings to your Festy.
          88L black, dailydriver
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          1952 Cessna170B floatplane

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          • #6
            WTF?? Thanks for the link, but I glanced at that article and almost had a seizure!! Didn't even try to comprehend it.
            My brain is not wired for that sort of complex math (it's math...or something, right??)
            If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
            Mark S.

            Comment


            • #7
              Horsepower is not always the same for a certain RPM. When a manufacturer lists the output of an engine, it is listed as the maximum HP that that engine makes at full throttle under a calibrated load. Your engine may make 106hp at 6000 rpm under a 95 ft lb torque load while at full throttle, but it wont make that same 106hp at 6000 rpm with 10 ft/lb torque load at 1/4 throttle. It may only be making approximately 11.5 HP. With modern fuel injection systems, fuel consumption can change drastically with less engine load.

              All that said, you will be hard pressed to improve the fuel mileage of a Yaris with Aerodynamics. Toyota spent millions of dollars making that car aerodynamic and it has one of the lowest coefficient drag ratings in the modern automotive world. You would have to chop the top and lay down while driving it! Lol!

              Hope that helped to clear things up.
              Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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              • #8
                more aero= less drag
                less drag = less power used to do same work or maintain speed
                less power used to maintain speed = less fuel used
                Donn
                ______________
                93 Blue rio/aspire swapped,B8,

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                • #9
                  One thing that does affect the Yari and other cars that require very little
                  power to maintain speed..Get the best rated low rolling resistance tires,
                  the tires themselves have less internal friction and are more aero shaped
                  than most popular 15's. Use gasoline with no alky in it clear gas is a little
                  hard to find but it contains more energy per gallon than the junk we are
                  told is best..These 2 things are more effective than aero mods on that particular
                  car. Next would be to keep the car empty of the 200lbs of junk most cars have
                  if you drive city a lot. 4th..aero.? nope ..quit loading the alternator so hard
                  with that huge stereo..5th..tape up rough edges and seams..? nope, driving
                  technique will outperform aero..study and use hyper-mileage techniques.
                  Aerodynamics may or may not out perform engine tune, that depends how
                  bad you are now.

                  Aero can be estimated by picking a section of road and marking the distance
                  it takes you to roll from the speed limit down to say 45mph. Average several
                  tries to get a base line. Do you mod for either rolling resistance or aero then
                  compare the results to your base line. Obviously if a change causes you to
                  roll further you have just reduced the power it takes to push your car and you
                  have just increased your gas mileage.

                  I live in a section of the country I can do this any time I want safely.
                  If you live in New York city, be careful and find a safe place to road
                  test!

                  Study what makes the highest BC of a bullet of the same weight
                  then look at your car, it might be one of today's best but it sure
                  isn't perfect! Very poor actually.
                  Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    All very interesting. Thanks!

                    Probably not doing anything to mod the Yaris, at least not for aero. Possibly a lip under the front bumper. But that's it. I get about 38 in around town driving, and I'm not even trying to get good mpg. I'm anxious to fill up and see what kind of milage it's capable of.
                    If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
                    Mark S.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The front bumper lip will actually hurt gas mileage. The original intent with those was to improve effective down force. The increase in frontal surface area with the ever so slight (at most Yaris city speeds at least) addition of down force will not increase fuel mileage at all, but it may decrease it slightly (probably not noticeable, unless your putting a really big front lip on). But the cool factor is worth the mileage, so go for it! lol.
                      Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by deathegg View Post
                        First, I know aero aids DO help if done properly. The problem I'm having is how they do it.

                        What I'm not understanding is this: Since a specific speed in a specific gear = a specific rpm (lets pretend 65 m.p.h / 5th gear = 2500 RPM), how does aero improve MPG? I've always understood that at X-rpm, the engine makes a specific amount of power. For instance, my Yaris makes 106 HP @ 6000 rpm. HP does not (as far as I know), increase or decrease at 6000 rpm; if it's revved to 6000 rpm, it's ALWAYS 106 HP. Not 100. Not 115. It's 106.

                        So, for my 2500 rpm example, it makes X hp. Why would aero help m.p.g since the HP being created @2500 rpm has not decreased?

                        My brain is not happy right now. I feel stupid, because I think I should know this.

                        Of course, I may be over-thinking this and making it waaay more complex than needed. I tend to do that a lot too!
                        Yes, you're overthinking. Re-read my second paragraph again and think about it....
                        The throttle controls the amount of air the motor ingests and thus the potential power output. The rpm of the engine changes based on the load or resistance it is experiencing. If you apply 1/4 throttle and hold it there, the engine will have the potential to put out "X" amount of power. If the load or resistance is LESS than "X" horsepower, the engine will increase RPM and accelerate the load (thus increasing the power requirement) until the load requirement reaches "X" horsepower. The engine RPM will change until the power requirement of the load and the power output of the engine are the same.

                        What's messing you up is thinking that an engine puts out a specific amount of power at a specific RPM. The power output is determined by the throttle position or the amount of air & fuel being ingested. You can put your car in neutral and free rev the engine up to 5000 RPM and hold it there. It will only take a very slight amount of throttle to do so. Why? Because the only load you're trying to overcome is the internal friction of the engine itself...maybe a couple HP. But, drive the car on the highway in 5th gear and try to cruise at 5000 RPM. You'll probably have to go almost full throttle, because the power required to move the car at that speed requires way more power and thus more air and fuel.
                        Brian

                        93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                        04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                        62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                        1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                        Not enough time or money for any of them

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I think I got this figured out..
                          If I make 20 HP at 2000 RPM
                          and I make 60 HP at 6000 RPM
                          I will make 120 HP at 12,000 RPM!!

                          Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Charlie answered your question really well:

                            "Horsepower is not always the same for a certain RPM. When a manufacturer lists the output of an engine, it is listed as the maximum HP that that engine makes at full throttle under a calibrated load. Your engine may make 106hp at 6000 rpm under a 95 ft lb torque load while at full throttle, but it wont make that same 106hp at 6000 rpm with 10 ft/lb torque load at 1/4 throttle. It may only be making approximately 11.5 HP. With modern fuel injection systems, fuel consumption can change drastically with less engine load."

                            He also wrote:

                            "All that said, you will be hard pressed to improve the fuel mileage of a Yaris with Aerodynamics. Toyota spent millions of dollars making that car aerodynamic and it has one of the lowest coefficient drag ratings in the modern automotive world."

                            I'll disagree just a little bit here. Almost all "off the shelf" products are going to be compromises, due to the manufacturer's inability to satisfy all customer usage requirements and desires. That means that though the Yaris probably is one of the most aerodynamic cars out there, there may still be ways to mod it for better CD numbers. I'd look into ride height, since the Yaris will be made to go on all sorts of roads, including rougher ones, without too much chance of breakage under "normal" use. You might put on some lowering springs and add a deeper front air dam, which may improve your numbers a bit. Then again, maybe not. Air dams will keep air from going under your car, but they also add frontal area. Whether or not your mileage decreases will depend on how the whole deal acts in the real world. Maybe the Yaris has a very slick underside and the air dam will not be as effective.

                            Getting rid of all the gaps on the body surface may be a safer option. Again, the manufacturer will have their specs, which are probably not quite as good as you could do with some careful thought and the right materials to keep air out of these gaps. As was already suggested, low rolling resistance tires could also help. The question is, will they help save more gas than the extra money they will cost?

                            Hypermiling driving techniques, more air in your tires, reducing extra weight, and keeping your engine in proper tune are all low or no cost ways to improve your mileage. After you investigate those, then maybe look into better aero mods to see what you can do.

                            Karl
                            '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                            '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                            '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                            '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                              What's messing you up is thinking that an engine puts out a specific amount of power at a specific RPM. The power output is determined by the throttle position or the amount of air & fuel being ingested. You can put your car in neutral and free rev the engine up to 5000 RPM and hold it there. It will only take a very slight amount of throttle to do so. Why? Because the only load you're trying to overcome is the internal friction of the engine itself...maybe a couple HP. But, drive the car on the highway in 5th gear and try to cruise at 5000 RPM. You'll probably have to go almost full throttle, because the power required to move the car at that speed requires way more power and thus more air and fuel.
                              OK, this paragraph makes it clear(er) for me, thanks!

                              Probably not doing much in the way of modding it; the Yaris is pretty aerodynamic as it is. I'd tend to rely on hypermiling than almost anything else; what I want to do to the Yaris would tend to increase drag (lower chin spoiler, rear roof spoiler), or add rolling resistance (wider 16" wheels and tires instead of the 15")
                              If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
                              Mark S.

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