head sealing surface on a block

[scitzz]

Also read the "ethanol subsidies" dried up 4 months ago and so there's now more "pure" gasoline becoming more prevelant in a lot of the stations, also BONUS!

Is that why I see less notification? Which leads to another off topic question: Is there a mandate that says a station has to post a notice that Eth is added?

[Zanzer]

Well, cough it up, man! What is the secret?

Polish the combustion chambers and radius all sharp edges. Do the same to the tops of the pistons as well. You try to eliminate the chance of anything igniting the mixture other than the sparkplug.





Here's a link to the thread with more details:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36336

[scitzz]

Is that all????

;P

[Zanzer]

No, I beg to differ, I've got a "premium car" and got gas yesterday. The premium has been a dime more a gallon for the longest time, same with the mid grade, a dime more than 87, but it's now only a fews cents more per gallon! I don't remember exactly, but I want to say only 5 or 6 cents diff now! reads BONUS

Also read the "ethanol subsidies" dried up 4 months ago and so there's now more "pure" gasoline becoming more prevelant in a lot of the stations, also BONUS!

Same here my MS3 requires premium only so I've had to start buying the good stuff. The price gap is a little higher here, plus I got accustomed to 87 prices with the trusty B3 in the Festy. And to make matters worse, gas is (for some reason) much cheaper in NJ with premium being the same price there as regular in other states. So when I make the monthly drive home I see an extra price jump

Luckily the Mazda gets pretty decent mpgs on the open road so I'm fine with the trade off.

[Zanzer]

Is that all????

;P

Pretty much

It's similar to what Mada has started doing to the Skyactiv engines. Sharp edges and casting imperfections can create hot spots that ignite the air fuel mixture before the spark plug....which leads to detonation.

[iceracerdude]

...The price gap is a little higher here, plus I got accustomed to 87 prices with the trusty B3 in the Festy. And to make matters worse, gas is (for some reason) much cheaper in NJ with premium being the same price there as regular in other states...

What prices are you talkin...We're @ $3.99ish, and premium is @ only $4.05 here in "Mid-Michigan"

[Movin]

Dont scratch the block with rough sand paper, you do not want to see a good pattern
or finish, think more like wet sanding for paint, only the imperfections a fast job
leaves translates into slow coolant seeps. You will do fine.

Use copper cote, it give better results regardless of what the gasket maker
recommends.Let the copper cote dry before installation of the head.

Do not try to sand out coolant port pitting. Just before head installation
put a thin layer of silicone over the pits and put the head on with the silicone
wet. If the pits are very small, like specs then use copper cote instead. Keep
copper cote out of an area that needs silicone.

While torquing the head watch the degrees of rotation along with the foot lbs.
If you have an imperfection with the new studs it will show up this way instead
of later in the form of a leak.

Run good coolant with good water and wire your ground straps to keep electricity
from going through your block, just to it, then you will not get pitting.

[zoom zoom]

I....

I spent over 100$ on supplies and at least a couple hours youtubing so far trying to learn how to polish metal. I don't know what I'm missing but it doesn't turn out very good. I don't want to screw up the nice shave job they did on the head either, so polishing the chambers is out...the valves are already back in.

I guess ill probably just do the scotch brite thing by hand until the black stuff goes away, then copper spray and hope for the best. Chances are good this engine is toast before it sees the road anyway, after all, it is mine.

[Zanzer]

What prices are you talkin...We're @ $3.99ish, and premium is @ only $4.05 here in "Mid-Michigan"

I wish we had that kind of margin. I noticed tonight at the station near my house it's $3.95 for 87 and $4.30 for 93.

[blkfordsedan]

I would check the block surface with a machinists edge for warpage. Its probably OK, but a perfect surface finish won't do any good if the block is too far out. If the block is pretty straight and the surface is clean and smooth, you should be fine. What Zanzer says aboutpolished chambers is true. A good chamber finish is worth a full point in compression in terms of reducing octane requirement.

[kellen302]

Western WA blows right now, we usually have high prices and we've had some refinery issues recently. Also I live on an island. I filled up with 89 2 weeks ago cuz the festy has a little knock on 87. it was 4.20, 89 is now 4.38 and climbing fast. And I'm only getting 39-40mpg with my teenage driving and a couple crappy rear bearings that I should've replaced when I did the brakes. But they were fine then. Any idea how long they'll last, they're warm after a 10-15 mile drive at around 50mph sustained? cold on rainy days when thje roads are wet. Sorry to threadjack bros.

[Movin]

If you are serious about needing a little time and then promising not to
forget..Pop the grease cap and inject a 1/3 cup or so of gear oil and
put the cap back on real quick before it runs out..will buy a little time by
thinning rock hard grease and getting lube to the dry spots. Just do not
forget to do it right when you can!!!

Zoom..You are not toasting your engine over this! It is probably really smooth
and blocks usually do not warp enough to matter, just check it. Fine block sanding
with some kind of petro cleaner..Brake clean, thinner, whatever just use a small
block. Should come out fine, clean it good and get on with the copper stuff!!

[blkfordsedan]

Zoom, what motor are you building? a BP? Don't the BP's have MLS head gaslets from the factory? I put a head gasket in my old B8 Protege, and IIRC it was a MLS.

[zoom zoom]

Yea it's a BP block and head, I'll get some pictures in a minute before I head to work.

[blkfordsedan]

I don't know, but didn't the BP have a MLS gasket from the factory? If so, you can use the standard Felpro Perma Torq MLS head gasket. You shouldn't have to worry about the surface that much, since it should already have the proper finish. Just make sure it's clean and you'll be fine.