caranddriver: they've called as Aspire, but posted our picture

[russian]

http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-detroit-bs-inspections-opel-breadvan-fiat-x19s-and-juggalos/

[sketchman]

When you see the Mazda engine out of an Escort GT under the Aspire’s hood… well, this swap probably seemed like a good idea at the time. The LeMons Supreme Court felt so sure that this car will be an ill-handling nightmare on the track that we assigned it to Class C, where it will be racing against the likes of Ford Tempos and Fiat X1/9s.

Oh to see their faces when it runs.

[russian]

1st engine did not run long

also severe understeer & torque steering...
but 2nd engine run longer and we are one of the "winners" - http://blog.caranddriver.com/24-hour...t-the-winners/

[Festy46]

In your parts list, I don't see an Aspire rear axle beam. If you were running Aspire front brakes and Festiva rear brakes, you had WAY TOO MUCH front braking. It's no wonder it would understeer.

[PhoenixSHO]

When you dont know the diff between the aspire and a festiva , please quit your job. (of automobile writer). Please just go bag some groceries.

[russian]

In your parts list, I don't see an Aspire rear axle beam. If you were running Aspire front brakes and Festiva rear brakes, you had WAY TOO MUCH front braking. It's no wonder it would understeer.

Not sure how would braking balance affect this? I break before the turn.

[sketchman]

Any front camber?

It may sound ghetto, but you can just elongate one set of bolt holes in your stock front struts and get easy camber. Then just give the bolts in the slots a tad extra grunt when you torque everything down.

Just in case someone is afraid of that idea, guys with dodge neons have this from the KYB factory when they put on GR2s/Excel Gs, and it works just fine.

Could also weld the "U" shape of the rear beam up to your liking. Or both.

[russian]

Any front camber?

It may sound ghetto, but you can just elongate one set of bolt holes in your stock front struts and get easy camber. Then just give the bolts in the slots a tad extra grunt when you torque everything down.

Just in case someone is afraid of that idea, guys with dodge neons have this from the KYB factory when they put on GR2s/Excel Gs, and it works just fine.

We have started with four camber bolts but they turned out to be crap, we have replaced them one by one with regular bolts just to have everything together.

Need to figure out how we go for the next race... Maybe different brand and only two of them to be on the safe side. Maybe will play with the upper mounts somehow...

[Festy46]

Not sure how would braking balance affect this? I break before the turn.

More rear braking will cause the rear to slide out going into the corner which causes the front of the car to be pointed toward the center of the corner instead of toward the wall. If you've ever driven on icy roads, think of it this way. If you try to turn and you hit the brakes the front end will plow straight ahead instead of turning. If you had no front brakes for the same situation, the back brakes would cause the rear of your car to slide and point it in the direction you want to go.

If you're running a circle track (and not a road course) get some of the rear camber washers that Rockauto sells. Get the ones with the biggest adjustment and install them on the rear axle so it causes the front of both rear wheels to point toward the outside wall. This makes the car steer a little like a forklift and helps a lot with turning.

[russian]

More rear braking will cause the rear to slide out going into the corner which causes the front of the car to be pointed toward the center of the corner instead of toward the wall. If you've ever driven on icy roads, think of it this way. If you try to turn and you hit the brakes the front end will plow straight ahead instead of turning. If you had no front brakes for the same situation, the back brakes would cause the rear of your car to slide and point it in the direction you want to go.

If you're running a circle track (and not a road course) get some of the rear camber washers that Rockauto sells. Get the ones with the biggest adjustment and install them on the rear axle so it causes the front of both rear wheels to point toward the outside wall. This makes the car steer a little like a forklift and helps a lot with turning.

What Rockauto camber washers? We are running a road course but still we might need some camber on the rear.

[DriverOne]

When you dont know the diff between the aspire and a festiva , please quit your job. (of automobile writer). Please just go bag some groceries.

[Festy46]

What Rockauto camber washers? We are running a road course but still we might need some camber on the rear.

Go to Rockauto.com and look under suspension parts. Here's a link to a picture of what they look like:

http://info.rockauto.com/Moog/Detail.html?K993-6_TOP.jpg

These "washers" are thick on one side (edge) and thin on the other. The way they work is that you remove the rear spindle, take the camber washer and rotate it to get the correct angle that you want for the spindle. Then cut notches in the washer to match the bolt pattern of your spindle and then re-install the spindle.

[sketchman]

Just my opinion, I guess, but if the front is plowing, wouldn't it be better to first try to get as much grip as possible in the front instead of taking grip away from the rear? Seems counterproductive. Sliding the rear may get you lined up, but sliding isn't accelerating. Unless, does breaking the rear loose help to keep the car more level, so you can start pulling out of the corner sooner?

Oh, and if you slot the bolt holes in the strut clevis you can use plain old stock clevis to knuckle bolts which should hold up fine.

[Nerd Racing]

That "Abarf" was awesome looking and awesomely named

[russian]

Oh, and if you slot the bolt holes in the strut clevis you can use plain old stock clevis to knuckle bolts which should hold up fine.

how do you deal with the bolt play within the slot? tighten the bolt?