Kia Pride oil specification

[esmal2012]

Hello guys.

1- I have a 2005 Kia Pride (manufactured by Saipa). The only API that manual recommends is SG grade ( same from 80s). I know newer APIs are better for engine, but why is that manufacturer never recommends newer APi oil grade if they are superior? The car has catalyst converter.

2- Saipa Manual says change oil at 6000 km or 1 year, but the oil bottle label that is specifically for saipa pride ( and sold by saipa) says change interval is 10000 km. Which one should I follow?

3- Why is that all oil manufacturer refer to car recommendation for change interval even if their oil last longer?

Thank you.

[bravekozak]

Your car is out of warranty. If it were in warranty, I would follow manufacturers specifications to the letter. If you are in a tropical climate, there is even no reason to even run multigrade.

[FestYboy]

the older API still has ZINK in it, that's why... the STP Oil treatment you can get in our auto stores does the same thing for us since we can't get that spec of oil any more.

[Bert]

I've been running synthetic oil for well over 20 years now and have no complaints. Matter of fact because the stuff doesn't break down I extend service intervals to 10,000 km instead of 5,000 km. The one engine that I've been running this oil in since 1990 now has 475,000K on the clock and still uses no oil between changes. I live in the north and use 5W20 in the winter and 5W50 in the summer.

[esmal2012]

Your car is out of warranty. If it were in warranty, I would follow manufacturers specifications to the letter. If you are in a tropical climate, there is even no reason to even run multigrade.

Thank you guys.
I'm in Tehran and it's 8 (°C). Monogrades are rarely being used here. Here the first choice for Pride is 20w-50, but 10w-40 and 10w-30 can be used as well.

the older API still has ZINK in it, that's why... the STP Oil treatment you can get in our auto stores does the same thing for us since we can't get that spec of oil any more.

So you mean I should not use SL API as I'm running now? Isn't SG harmful to catalyst converter? Here SF and SG can be bought easily.

I've been running synthetic oil for well over 20 years now and have no complaints. Matter of fact because the stuff doesn't break down I extend service intervals to 10,000 km instead of 5,000 km. The one engine that I've been running this oil in since 1990 now has 475,000K on the clock and still uses no oil between changes. I live in the north and use 5W20 in the winter and 5W50 in the summer.

Kia manual says 5w-30 for lower than 0 and 5w-20 for lower than -20, I'm not sure if I can run 5w-50 or 5w-40 for higher than zero temperature.

As I undrestand it's safe to use SN synthetic oil then...

[Movin]

In stock form these engines are pretty tolerant of different oils and weights.
stay within reason.
How long to keep the oil is different. You do not want the oil to get old
enough that it starts to shed its additive package and contaminates in suspension.
If it starts to turn dark or doesn't feel as slippery when you test it in your fingers
then change it!

[FestYboy]

the SG won't do anything to your cat unless you're consuming oil through the exhaust. if you do change to a newer package, add a zink addative to you changes, it's used to prevent wear on you cam and lifters/rockers.

[Bert]

I am not an oil connoisseur but have discovered over the years that synthetics coat parts and don't readily run off. What this suggests is that wear at start up is much reduced. Synthetics also don't dry out seals like conventional oils do. I got my normally skeptic mechanic jumping up and down twice in two years, first when he replaced the original rear engine seal at 400,000 km and then again after replacing the original fuel pump at 425,000. The seal had merely worn out and was not dried and cracked, as he said they usually are, and in the case of the mechanical fuel pump the rubber diaphragm (which is bathed in engine oil) was still soft and pliable. It was the pressed steel kicker arm that had worn right out! We're going back 15 years with that story, but I did notice that mechanic had switched to synthetics in all his stuff not long after.

[Bert]

By the way, 5 years ago I was having a tough time during a particular week-long cold snap (-30 C) in getting the Festy started in the morning when I was an auto parts courier so I did a hasty oil change over to synthetic 0W20. Without a block heater the car started in a jiffy at -30 but boy it did not like to run smoothly on that stuff and the valve train clattered incessantly. A cupful of 20W50 cured that and I've never tried running "0" grade in a Festy again.

[esmal2012]

Thank you guys. As I understand it, I can run something like AMSOIL 10w-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic (25000 miles or 1 year) even if manual says change at 6000 km?

[Bert]

Thank you guys. As I understand it, I can run something like AMSOIL 10w-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic (25000 miles or 1 year) even if manual says change at 6000 km?

Since your warranty period has long ago expired you can do as you want. Synthetic oils have higher solvent properties than lo-grade inexpensive oils so if you're doing a sudden switch keep an eye on the colour of the new oil. Otherwise if the colour stays uniform gold you're good for almost as long as you want (25K sounds a bit far-fetched, though).

[esmal2012]

Thank you Bert.
Are Pride and festiva oil specifications the same?
This is recommended viscosity from KIA:



I mean if it is safe to run 0w-40 instead of 10w-40 for example?
Here is a strong belief that synthetics are harmful for cars like Pride and no one has ever tried synthetic oil in Pride. Is it really safe and if yes how I can convince them about running synthetic oil?

[navdoc101]

In my '93 Festy I run Castrol High-Milage 5W-30. It is a semi-synthetic. (Part synthetic, part dino-oil).

[esmal2012]

In my '93 Festy I run Castrol High-Milage 5W-30. It is a semi-synthetic. (Part synthetic, part dino-oil).

Thank you.
Are viscosities the same for different temperatures in Pride and Festiva?

[navdoc101]

Someone on here posted a link to a very good artical on oils. I can't find it, so maybe someone else will post it again. From what I remember at temp. all oils viuscostity is the same. At startup lower weights 0W - 5W help protect your engine. Hope I got that correct, I'm sure someone on here will correct me if I'm wrong. Found it: www.bobistheoilguy.com