Hey everyone... New here

[bigealz]

Hey Everyone. Just bought a 92 Ford Festiva L this weekend. The Clutch has gone out it in. Any pointers on this car would be awesome. Is there anything that i need to keep an eye on when i am taking it apart to fix. Thanks for all the help

[RhodeStiva]

there is a lot of write ups for small upgrades:
like the fuseable link upgrade just swap the out for the deep cartridges 30A and 40A.

[neanderpaul]

welcome! We love pics!

[TorqueEffect]

Here is one pointer right off the bat, since the clutch is gone, and I know you are going to replace it.
Replace it with an Exedy brand clutch.

Full clutch Kit, includes alignment tool, pressure plate, new throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and of course the clutch disc itself.
$108 off ebay, and way better than any McAutopart store clutch.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-GENUINE-CLUTCH-PRO-KIT-SET-1994-1997-FORD-ASPIRE-1988-93-FESTIVA-1-3L-/160991280697?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AFestiva&hash=item257bd3fe39&vxp=mtr

[Movin]

The diff side gears can fall inside if you pull the trans with both axles out, stick some wire in one side and out the other to hold them in place.

Resurface the flywheel. Check your mounts.

[Bert]

If you a DIY'er and/or tinkerer you can easily get caught up in these "go-karts" for their simplicity, fuel economy and utility of use. This site provides a wealth of information on where to get parts and which sort of upgrades to contemplate. Factory brakes (especially the fronts) are the Achilles tendon of these cars and a simple upgrade to parts out of a Ford Aspire or Kia Rio will greatly improve the driveability and serviceability. If'n you decide to get cocky about more performance please know that almost any Mazda B-series engine made during the 1990s will readily adapt to an EFI (electronic fuel injection) Festy.
Welcome aboard!

[Bert]

I also forgot to mention that escaping from increasingly rare 12 inch tires is eminently feasible. Easiest is to find a dead Geo Metro/Pontiac Firefly/Suzuki Swift from the mid to late 90s and grab the direct fit (and usually 13") wheels.

[bigealz]

Here is one pointer right off the bat, since the clutch is gone, and I know you are going to replace it.
Replace it with an Exedy brand clutch.

Full clutch Kit, includes alignment tool, pressure plate, new throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and of course the clutch disc itself.
$108 off ebay, and way better than any McAutopart store clutch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-GENUIN...d3fe39&vxp=mtr

Awesome.. thanks for the advice

[bigealz]

I also forgot to mention that escaping from increasingly rare 12 inch tires is eminently feasible. Easiest is to find a dead Geo Metro/Pontiac Firefly/Suzuki Swift from the mid to late 90s and grab the direct fit (and usually 13") wheels.

So i should get away from the 12" tires

[bigealz]

The diff side gears can fall inside if you pull the trans with both axles out, stick some wire in one side and out the other to hold them in place.

Resurface the flywheel. Check your mounts.

Is pulling the trans with both axles out the easiest way to pull it

[FestYboy]

^ yeah, best way to avoid the spider gear drop, is to disconnect the driver axle nut, remove the CV from the knuckle and leave that axle in the trans. you can then remove the passenger axle and slide the trans out the driver side.

[Movin]

As long as the axles come out fairly easy. Constant outward pressure combined with rocking works well. An assortment of pry bars, screw drivers and a rubber mallet are usually the toys to play with.

[blkfordsedan]

Yes. I would also replace both trans output seals....along with a new rear main seal, since you'll have it exposed. While the motor is out, it's also a great time to replace the fuel filter and the boots on the steering rack if they need it. Also check the shifter stabilizer rod bushing where it bolts to the tranny. These are all small parts, but will add another $100 or so to the project. However, it will be MUCH easier doing this stuff with the engine out and could save a ton of labor in the future.

oh yeah, timing belt, tensioner and water pump.....on second thought, just rebuild the whole thing, LOL!

[bobbyspider]

Welcome to the site. all the advice given is good.

[bigealz]

Yes. I would also replace both trans output seals....along with a new rear main seal, since you'll have it exposed. While the motor is out, it's also a great time to replace the fuel filter and the boots on the steering rack if they need it. Also check the shifter stabilizer rod bushing where it bolts to the tranny. These are all small parts, but will add another $100 or so to the project. However, it will be MUCH easier doing this stuff with the engine out and could save a ton of labor in the future.

oh yeah, timing belt, tensioner and water pump.....on second thought, just rebuild the whole thing, LOL!

so you are saying that i need to pull the motor. or can i do all that stuff with the tranny out