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Hypothetically speaking, what's Festiva Body kit worth? Fenders, door & 1/4 panels..

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  • Hypothetically speaking, what's Festiva Body kit worth? Fenders, door & 1/4 panels..

    None of my cars are particularly straight. It's a lot of work to get them straight, but since the metal is so thin, I'm not sure how long they'd stay straight. Plus there are more used wheels with smaller offsets available, so I'm thinking 1"-2" flares.

    Fenders would be bolt on fiberglass, the door panel would go from the edge of the outer weatherstrip flat down and would have a cutout for the handle and lock and would attach with mechanical means.

    The quarters would start at the same bodyline at the top and attach in a similar manner. There would also have to be a rocker molding that would likely pop rivit under the door and on the bottom of the rocker just outside the pinch mold.

    I fear such a setup would be at least a grand which, quite frankly, sounds out of place for these cars, many of which are bought for far less. But on the other hand, it would seem to increase the value somewhat I would think, as well as the fact that it could be removed and placed on another car as it isn't bonded to it.

    In order to make the rear quarters fit, a tail panel finisher might be required and wrap the tiny wing lip around onto the quarter, but, lots of tail panels are in bad shape too.

    The other cool thing is, with the tail panel and front fenders, new headlights and taillights could be placed on the car. I kinda like the Escape headlights (prior to 2012 or 2013), not sure of the taillights, I've kicked around Cobalt taillights before, which I believe are the same as HHR lights.
    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
    2005 Accord - wife's DD
    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

  • #2
    I guess I just blew everyone's mind.

    Kinda wanting opinions on it. I know it's hard to wrap your head around the door covers and quarter panels and their attachment. Once on, it would be obvious that it was added on to anyone that knew, but it would be relatively clean and if someone wanted to go that extra mile for a full on show car, I'm sure it could be blended in. I'm figuring the wheel opening on the quarter would be cut out, in fact, most of the lower part of the quarter could be removed. The gas door would have a new bucket that the filler neck fit into as well as a new gas door, this time, without a key.
    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
    2005 Accord - wife's DD
    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

    Comment


    • #3
      Why not figure out how to acquire the Festiva tooling from Iran (as was discussed on another thread a while back) and just stamp out complete new cars, to which you attach your data plates, move all the bolt-on stuff over, and you have virtually new cars.
      88L black, dailydriver
      88LX silver a/c, dailydriver
      4 88/89 disassembled
      91L green
      91GL aqua pwrsteer
      92GL red a/c reardmg
      3 93L blue, 2 dailydriver, 1 frontdmg
      1952 Cessna170B floatplane

      Comment


      • #4
        Last edited by Larry Hampton; 05-01-2013, 10:53 PM.
        1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
        1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
        1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
        1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
        2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
        2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
        2005 Accord - wife's DD
        2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
        2015 F150 SCrew - DD

        Comment


        • #5
          i think you blew larrys mind
          Rod

          "Confidence is the most important thing you can teach someone... if you can teach them confidence, you don't have to teach them anything else."

          1992 truckiva
          1989 festiva lx (mine again)
          1980 triumph tr7 convertible (project)
          1976 tr7 hardtop (parts car)
          1989 dodge caravan turbo
          1975 amc gremlin 4x4 (play toy)

          Comment


          • #6
            Nah, I tried to post an image of the "easy" button.

            Guess no one would want anything like this. Im looking at it as a sort of body armor.
            1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
            1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
            1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
            1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
            2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
            2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
            2005 Accord - wife's DD
            2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
            2015 F150 SCrew - DD

            Comment


            • #7
              i'd be interested in an aerodynamically streamlined body kit with:

              nose
              front and rear wheel skirts
              underbelly pan
              kammback or boat tail

              I won't hold my breath though
              My Fuel Log



              See post #10 for my tips on fuel economy

              Comment


              • #8
                I hope you know what you are doing , in order to make my shogun body kit , I think I got 6+ months into it plus a couple grand.

                Liquid polyurethane that makes rigid foam (to make the forms) doesnt come cheap , then theres the sculpting , then crapload of bondo , primer + clear.

                THEN you can start casting molds on your newly made parts , and it takes loads of fiberglass (I bought a full roll of mat @ 250$) plus resin , and gelcoat , the gelcoat is like 80$ per gallon.

                Wait , you still have no actual parts casted yet.

                If you can , go for it , if you have no idea what you are doing and you have less then 500$ to put into that to start , I strongly suggest to abandon ship.

                Comment


                • #9
                  But, when you do start casting those parts, you'll have a line (a short line, where half the people turn around and walk away before the line gets to you, but still a line) of people waiting with cash in hand for these parts. Lol. Who want's to help PHXSHO recoup some of his money? I do, I do!!!!!
                  Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I know what's involved, especially timewise, not so much $$$wise. I was figuring on making the molds, then taking them to a shop to cast. There's a shop local to me that makes all sorts of stuff. I was planning on gluing 1/2" blue insulation board to the blue car and go from there. The door covers would only be 3/16"-1/4" thick, but the flares would run over onto them, sorta like a Renault 5 Alpine.

                    I'd love to do the SHOGun stuff, in fact a buddy has several SHO motors and he's wanting to build one as he's buddies with one of the guys that helped build the originals. But all I'm wanting is a some slightly flared fenders (1"-2") to be able to put a bit wider tire in there or one with less offset, as well as some door covers that will take a bit more of a licking.
                    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                    2005 Accord - wife's DD
                    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Im not holding you from doing it , im just saying what may be involved.

                      If you use styro foam boards glued and sculpted , that would save some dollas. Plus since its only 2" you want , that doesnt take much material.

                      Sort out the details first by going at that mold shop first , cause that kinda stuff can be pricey , dont underestimate mold making /machining costs.

                      Comment

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