3 way oil/gas valve

[jason_]

Long story short, work van isn't plated or insured, and gearbox is getting questionable, and caliper hangs. Toolbox on wheels for the 1400 unit apartment complex I work at.

I need fuel, and she's getting rough to roll down to the station.

Idea, splice into fuel return, pop hood, string out a hose, flip valve, presto. Reflip valve, Wind up hose, twist a bolt in the end to keep out dirt, , close hood.

Only valve I can think of that might work without actually investigating, motorcycle/atv on/off/res. Ideas?

I'm not worried if I need to hit the gas station two or 3 times on the way to work to get a full tank. It's 23gal and lasts me 2 months at a time. I figured this is much easier. Already a tank under car, why not use pump to move it where I need? No funnels, bulky 5gal tanks. No spills. 5 mins of idling should spit quite a fuel out the return hose.

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[jason_]

Ha, grainger, Item #: 1PYZ8

1/4 thread so I can barb. Unless I need 3/8. Not sure of inside diameter of return, never had a need to measure.

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[jason_]

Any reason this wouldn't work?

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[zoom zoom]

If your trying to get gas off the vehicle I wouldn't use the return, use the supply line. No pressure or backpressure on the return line... Should be able to turn the key forward to engauge the fuel pump and open the valve. I'd probably go with a corresponding size compression t then adapter to npt or whatever your using for a valve.

[jason_]

If your trying to get gas off the vehicle I wouldn't use the return, use the supply line. No pressure or backpressure on the return line... Should be able to turn the key forward to engauge the fuel pump and open the valve. I'd probably go with a corresponding size compression t then adapter to npt or whatever your using for a valve.

I just quick slipped the hose off and stuck on same size hose on return barb from rail, about a gallon after 3 mins.



I tried key on trick on gm, pump needs crank or cam pickup after prime delay. I had to jump it at the relay box to keep pump on.

Not sure if aspire is setup the same, I assumed so, and trying to avoid switches, relay jumps, etc . pump stops after a second or 2, until starter is bumped or engine is running.





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[zoom zoom]

It should run until the fuel rail pressureizes? If not maybe you will have to jump ground to the fuel pump, easy at the dlc box on an aspire....but I would definitely be pulling fuel from the supply line and not the return. You could T it in easy under the hood with some fuel line and hose clamps.

[crazyrog17]

The black T connector by the brake booster is the fuel pump test connector. You could mount a little switch under the hood, with spade connectors on a short pair of wires, into the T test connector.

Key on (check engine light should be on) and the pump will run. Make sure you put the valve on a bracket. Driving with it yanking on your fuel lines is just asking for trouble.

But.. How much longer will you be needing to fuel this vehicle if it sounds like its falling apart! Haha

[jason_]

The black T connector by the brake booster is the fuel pump test connector. You could mount a little switch under the hood, with spade connectors on a short pair of wires, into the T test connector.

Key on (check engine light should be on) and the pump will run. Make sure you put the valve on a bracket. Driving with it yanking on your fuel lines is just asking for trouble.

But.. How much longer will you be needing to fuel this vehicle if it sounds like its falling apart! Haha

This is an aspire. Maybe a different setup?

And it doesn't matter if the van dies, next vehicle I use still won't have plates or insurance. So I'll be in the same boat holding a newer oar....

Surprisingly I've gotten 2 years since something bound up in the final drive. Makes weird clicking sounds, worse as 2nd gear plates engage..., and terrible grind/howl as 1st engages from 2nd. But only worse on down shift,, when and if it randomly does make winding noises. Oh well. It'll be my first auto transaxle. Rebuild able or not, still needs to come out to swap, and needs to be torn down to check if rebuildable.

I did make sure it's properly filled with atf, hate to burn the clutches up... Hehehe. I think there's planetary issues.

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[jason_]

It should run until the fuel rail pressureizes? If not maybe you will have to jump ground to the fuel pump, easy at the dlc box on an aspire....but I would definitely be pulling fuel from the supply line and not the return. You could T it in easy under the hood with some fuel line and hose clamps.

I'll try pulling before filter. I'd rather not upset and open from filter to rail barb. Hate to take a chance of plugging injector screen.

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[jason_]

Nope. Went from filter to z jug, bump key, pump runs for a second, stops. Needs cam or crank signal to continue. I guess the idea is why continue to pump when there's no engine rotation?

This the dlc?





Nothing resembles pump wire. Rather double check before poking 12v randomly...

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[jason_]

http://fordaspire.fr.yuku.com/forum/getrefs/id/21971/type/0

http://fordaspire.fr.yuku.com/sreply/21971/DLC-pinout

Need someone to double check that.

Admins, Pm me or kill/modify/delete post if I violated posting rules.

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[zoom zoom]

Gnd to f/p IIRC, but check that to make sure! I think +12v to that will break something.

[jason_]

Hm. Hose barbs and clamps on return side seems like a lot less risky and simpler.

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