Quality of the auto trans?

[Miah]

My 96 Aspire just threw a spider gear pin, destroyed the case & it wasn't even the original trans(64xxx trans in 165xxx car). Just called on another aspire & w/ 110,xxx it also has a blown auto.

Do the autos have issues or am I just unlucky? Is there anything that actively needs done to beef them up? Additional oil cooler? Sacrificing a small chicken?

[Team Lightning]

Everything I've heard says they are stronger than the manual transmissions.

[TominMO]

Have you been keeping oil or ATF in it? What kind?

[Miah]

no clue, whatever was in it when I bought the car. didn't get to drive it long enough to even consider trans service.

[FestYboy]

one wheel peels dont help... just sayin'

but typicaly the sutos will take more abuse because that torque converter sucks up alot of the shock loads. except for neutral drops... it doesn't like those and the TC can't do anything about them.

[crazyrog17]

Most important factor in the transmission's life isn't necessarily the quality of the transmission, it's the fluid run within it. DO NOT let the automatic transmission run even a little low, it reduces pump pressure and causes slipping. The clutches burn and glaze while the fluid heats up and breaks down too. All very bad things. Also consider; because of the torque converter, trans fluid is the only thing that pushes power from the engine to the wheels. I was recommended to use Type F after my trans swap (previous owner neglected a dripping pan and axle seal) and have no complaints in 1,500 miles so far.

It is a very stout transmission, designed for a bit bigger car. I've driven an auto Festiva with 170K miles on it that was still very strong, smooth and responsive. Pretty sure it was on its OEM fluid too

[neanderpaul]

I've seen 300k mile festy autos.

[TorqueEffect]

As long as the fluid is changed regularly, isn't neutral dropped, or doing allot of one wheel burnouts, they should last forever.

[Miah]

Hmm. well I never even got the chance to abuse it. Fluid levels were good & fluid was healthy pink, but no idea what was used when the trans shop/PO replaced it. Thinking about hitting up a PNP this week to look for a replacement. If I'm thinking correctly they'll nickel & dime me won't they? $xx.xx for trans, then $xx.xx for the TQ, & $xx.xx for any sensors, switches, brackets left on it...etc etc.

[Zanzer]

Hopefully they should let you slide on the TC but they'll hit you for pretty much anything else attached to it so take only what you absolutely need.

[jason_]

My 96 Aspire just threw a spider gear pin, destroyed the case & it wasn't even the original trans(64xxx trans in 165xxx car). Just called on another aspire & w/ 110,xxx it also has a blown auto.

Do the autos have issues or am I just unlucky? Is there anything that actively needs done to beef them up? Additional oil cooler? Sacrificing a small chicken?

You answered my question. My manual e series did the exact same thing.

Roll pin gave, spider pin slid out, bam.

I would call it's a final drive issue. Not a gearbox specific issue.

Also partly answered my question regarding if autos have same final guts, I would say yes.


Edit, always add tranny coolers. Delete oem circuit to avoid hot radiator water temps in summer. Hang a fatty in front of radiator on its own circuit.. My preference is condenser coils from old a/c sleeve units. Fat 5/8" tubing, no flow restrictions , multiple pass. Perfect. Free.

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[old yellow]

Everything I've heard says they are stronger than the manual transmissions.

festiva autos, 90 and before where not so good... but the 91 and later... alot better! all in all anything is better then the Aspire 5 speeds! I have always had a problem with loosing 4th gear in (all 3 trannys now 4) my Aspire trannys

[jason_]

festiva autos, 90 and before where not so good... but the 91 and later... alot better! all in all anything is better then the Aspire 5 speeds! I have always had a problem with loosing 4th gear in (all 3 trannys now 4) my Aspire trannys

I've heard that too. Any reason? Anyone who's mentioned it failed to post a picture or explain what actually has gone wrong. I'm over 350k miles on this gearbox after the roll pin disaster. Same synchs and dog gears, just new bearings.

I do have a habit of double clutching so synchs don't take such a brute.

All autos will fail. Something has to slip to get a non snappy spongy shift. Fluid gets dark for a reason, lining/disc floaties.... One pack releases while another engages, all while your foot is still feeding torque to input shaft....


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