oil leak, brakes, and front axles

[johnnyd]

Hi, new to the forum. Thanks for having me. A 91 festiva for sale down the street has my full interest. These cars are so cool. But this one has some issues I'd normally run from. It has @130K. 5spd. When I test drove it the brakes were grinding on the first brake then no grinding. Seemed like you have to go hard on the pedal to get it stop. Is that normal?
Are the front axles called CV joints? On a right turn after a stop I heard the all too familiar clicking. Are these things expensive to replace?
Lastly, the thing leaks oil pretty bad (2 -3 drips after a highway run) from what looks like a seal on the side (near fan belt) of the motor and bottom -oil pan I guess. Thanks for any advice on things I should look out for. -John

[Spike]

Depends on if it's a $300 car or a $1300 car. If the CVs are clicking, it's likely the rest of the suspension is nearing the end of its life, too.

CVs both sides: $100
Ball joints: $80
Tie-rods: $60
Brakes: Up to $200 depending on all that's involved (just bought full rear-brakes at RockAuto, cost me $97)
Rear bearings: $60

Grab all each tire at the top-right, and bottom-left (same time) and give them a good shake. If there's excessive free-play, it's likely it needs a good amount of suspension work. If the rears have a lot of play, you'll be doing wheel bearings soon, too.

Check everything, tally up, see how cheap you can get it. 130k miles is pretty low for a Festiva, if it's been taken care of.

Also, welcome to the site, John! Add your location to your profile, someone local might be able to help.

-Joe

[Spike]

And those are the prices of doing it all yourself, not having a shop do it. These are easy cars to work on, but if their rusty, they can sometimes be a bit more difficult.

Also! Get under the car and look for floor rust holes, excessive rust by rear axle mounts, the body support under the radiator. These are the main issues with Festivas.

-Joe

[johnnyd]

Thanks Joe, I'll check for rust and the suspension stuff. It felt amazingly solid on the road. My biggest worry is the oil leak. Are there common gaskets that go? What is the worst case oil leak? BTW, its $1600 -maybe..if I can talk him into actually selling the thing.

[Safety Guy]

John, if you really have to push on the brake pedal to stop, you may have a nonfunctioning brake booster. Might want to check the vac lines from booster to intake plenum in case some are missing or rotted. Or the booster itself is bad. To check that, drive the car normally, then turn engine off and apply brakes three or four times in a row to use up all the vacuum behind the check valve. If the brakes get harder to work, you still have vacuum and the booster should be good.

Karl

[wirebrain]

Oil leak from that end is usually the crank or cam seal...might as well do them both while you have it apart...and maybe the timing belt...nice thing about these engines...if the timing belt breaks there is no chance of engine damage...just stick another one on and go.

[zoom zoom]

If the brakes stopped making a noise the car probably just sat for a little while and you cleaned the rust off them. It will probably get better and might be fine after you drive for a few hundred miles.

[Bert]

$1600 is out of the question (unless of course this is a dedicated hobby project and a perfect shell is what you're looking for, and you've already secretly laid-in the Aspire/Rio brake/suspension stuff as well a BPT drivetrain). An OEM Festy with problems such as you describe usually make them 'tow away free' or $300 tax credit retire-your-ride' projects or at very most $500 enticements to nut cases like us. Lo ball the seller and wait him out.

By the way one of the Festys I bought relatively cheap ($500) had brakes that required 2 men and boy to stop. With that one it was mostly the caliper slides that were completely corroded and seized within the boots. Couldn't save or clean them and had to buy new calipers...and pads/bearings/rotors.... I think you understand what I'm saying. $1600 will likely also get you a little old lady owned, dealer-serviced and mechanical fitness certified Toyota Tercel that will be trouble free for quite a while. But Festys are fun, no doubt about that.

By the way; where are you located? I have 3 running Festys at the moment and if you were to sweet talk me for sure you've have one for much less than $1600.

[Gomez]

Also If the car has much rust it is possible that the calipers are stuck. Had it happen to 1 front and both rears my brothers Festiva. Only had one wheel brake for a while. He was amazed at the braking power on the car after that. LOL. Had to get a caliper from the parts car. But they are cheap and easy to do. Same with the rears too.

[bravekozak]

Tell the seller that service parts have been discontinued from Ford since September 2004.

[johnnyd]

John, if you really have to push on the brake pedal to stop, you may have a nonfunctioning brake booster. Might want to check the vac lines from booster to intake plenum in case some are missing or rotted. Or the booster itself is bad. To check that, drive the car normally, then turn engine off and apply brakes three or four times in a row to use up all the vacuum behind the check valve. If the brakes get harder to work, you still have vacuum and the booster should be good.

Karl

Thank you, I'll give that a shot it I get a chance to retest drive.

[johnnyd]

Tell the seller that service parts have been discontinued from Ford since September 2004.

Oh No! Is that true? -No parts at all at any parts stores...really?

[johnnyd]

$1600 is out of the question (unless of course this is a dedicated hobby project and a perfect shell is what you're looking for, and you've already secretly laid-in the Aspire/Rio brake/suspension stuff as well a BPT drivetrain). An OEM Festy with problems such as you describe usually make them 'tow away free' or $300 tax credit retire-your-ride' projects or at very most $500 enticements to nut cases like us. Lo ball the seller and wait him out.

By the way one of the Festys I bought relatively cheap ($500) had brakes that required 2 men and boy to stop. With that one it was mostly the caliper slides that were completely corroded and seized within the boots. Couldn't save or clean them and had to buy new calipers...and pads/bearings/rotors.... I think you understand what I'm saying. $1600 will likely also get you a little old lady owned, dealer-serviced and mechanical fitness certified Toyota Tercel that will be trouble free for quite a while. But Festys are fun, no doubt about that.

By the way; where are you located? I have 3 running Festys at the moment and if you were to sweet talk me for sure you've have one for much less than $1600.

Too bad Bert, we couldnt be farther away from each other..I'm in central California.

[johnnyd]

Oil leak from that end is usually the crank or cam seal...might as well do them both while you have it apart...and maybe the timing belt...nice thing about these engines...if the timing belt breaks there is no chance of engine damage...just stick another one on and go.

Is there a link to this process or a photographic breakdown on here somewhere

[Bert]

Tell the seller that service parts have been discontinued from Ford since September 2004.

Good comment! Likely the owner is aware of this and likely why the car hasn't seen much service in past 9 years, but it is very good to be reminded of that fact by a potential buyer.