rear wheele berrings into brake job?

[old yellow]

so, I just found out that while trying to change my rear wheel bearings, the brake calipers needed to be replaced along with the "pads" as I call them.... the rotors needed to be turned also... hey while i'm at it, does anybody have 2 crimp nuts, the ones for the center that holds the rotors on? The PO screwed the nuts up pretty bad but not to mention the real awful brake job and the 5+ pounds of greese the PO had done and/or used....

[htchbck]

RockAuto and Oreilly's used to sell the crimp nuts, but its been a while since I've bought any. If you are talking about the rears then this terminology guide may help you out when ordering parts.

Calipers = wheel cylinders

Pads = shoes

Rotors = drums

It may be worth it to buy new drums instead of having the old ones turned. Last set of drums I bought were $16.85ea, and having them turned was going to be $15ea.

[Spike]

RockAuto! I just got a full rear-job for $97 total buying up their 'wholesale closeouts'.

2 Drums ($10/ea)
Shoes
2 Wheel Cylinders
2 sets (inner and outer) Timken Bearings
2 Wheel Seals
Brake Hardware

and something else I forget.

Included shipping. Cheapest I could get anywhere else was about $140 shipped from Advance Auto (with $40 off $110 coupon code).

-Joe

[old yellow]

sorry for my mistake but I know more about 21st century brakes then 20th century brakes.... lol! It does not cost anything for me to turn brake drums because I work at a place (just when he has work) that lets me do it for next to nothing.... i have known the owner for years.... i think new wheele cylanders and shoes was only about $45 @ Napa

[old yellow]

only $20 for the inner and outer barings with bolth seals

[TorqueEffect]

Speaking of brake parts, and wheel bearings, I keep putting off getting the grease seal installed on my passenger side.

Have ran over 10k miles without that seal. lol I know this isn't good though since all the brake dust can get into the grease and screw up the bearings.
I also made the mistake of not matching the races to the Timkin bearings, somehow I installed the Valucraft bearing races, but used the Timkin bearings, I didn't even realize this until I found the races in a box of parts with Timkin written on the sides of em. The reason for the mixup was I bought the Valucraft bearings at first, but decided to upgrade to Timkins but never returned the Valucraft ones, and the parts got mixed up.

But has been running good so far.

[htchbck]

The rears are much more forgiving of the cheaper bearings than the front.

[old yellow]

Ya and I just had the car aligned.... it is now as straight as it can get but 90% of the problem is Radial Pull from my tires

[mystro]

how long do wheel bearings usually last for you guys? I was originally told they should last around 100k but Ive got one going out that I put on about 10,000 miles ago, any thoughts?

[FestYboy]

initial pre-load and type of grease used has a factor... plus maintinance. 50k+ on my bearings (i replace them as soon as i get a new (to me) car). i use SKF or Timkin and Moly grease, pack the bearing heavily and coat the area between the bearings (inner and outer) just to fill the air gap a little (you need some air gap, but not much). then i load the bearings very firmly, rotate the drum a few times, unload, re-load, rotate, unload and then set the tension i want (all by feel, but i've been doing this for many years).

the important thing to remember is to clean and repack your bearings regularly (i'm on a 2 year cycle, or there abouts).