Stilko toilet paper oil filters; an update on availability...

[Rocketman]

Hmm, did a quick google of the Oberg units. Looks like the newer ones are machined from billet, which will make them expensive. I'm not sure what else comes with the kit. I'm not sure what is involved with making a bypass type system either.

I can make a canister to hold a roll of TP, with a lid that bolts down on top. Inlet at the top, outlet in the bottom housing. drilled & tapped for 1/4" NPT, so you could thread in hose barbs or AN fittings of your choice. O-rings to seal everything, no gaskets. Not really sure on cost, though, I doubt it would be any cheaper than the Oberg units I'm seeing listed

[sketchman]

I see. Well, that's what I get for assuming.

I'll hack something together, ...eventually.

[jawbraeka]

Hmm, did a quick google of the Oberg units. Looks like the newer ones are machined from billet, which will make them expensive. I'm not sure what else comes with the kit. I'm not sure what is involved with making a bypass type system either.

I can make a canister to hold a roll of TP, with a lid that bolts down on top. Inlet at the top, outlet in the bottom housing. drilled & tapped for 1/4" NPT, so you could thread in hose barbs or AN fittings of your choice. O-rings to seal everything, no gaskets. Not really sure on cost, though, I doubt it would be any cheaper than the Oberg units I'm seeing listed

I'd happily pay for a unit that is a screw or bolt together, screw on filter that would replace any normal filter now, with the guts that can be replaced with a roll of tp. Sounds like the ultimate oil maintenance upgrade.

[db2u]

Seems pretty risky to go about making your own filter that completely replaces the spin on. I guess if you guys have some spare engines laying around as a testbed then go for it. As someone mentioned, for it to replace the spin on, it has to have a bypass of some sort. You cant push oil through a roll of TP as fast as you can through a couple ply of fiber material in a spin on. If your system does not include a bypass, you are going to starve yourself of oil. If your homemade bypass breaks, well, same issue I guess. Interested to see if anyone gets a cost effective system home brewed though.

[sketchman]

Cost effective is relative, though. An aftermarket bypass system is hundreds plus your time to install it, and then that's just the bypass part. I'm just throwing around parts on eBay to get an idea, and so far I'm up to about $220 to replace everything. That's an oberg for the main filter and a TP filter for the bypass. With the oberg you don't need a pressure bypass. It's just a screen to catch the "big" stuff. Then the TP does the real work.

You could save about $80 if you didn't replace the spin-on with the oberg and just used the stock spin-on with the bypass, but I'm OCD like that, and again it just further reduces throwaway stuff you have to buy down the road. Say it costs you $20 to change the oil. Then you do the whole conversion with the TP bypass and the oberg and you're down to a roll of TP and around 1qt of oil AND longer service intervals on top of it, not having to crawl under the car to drain the oil, etc. It pays for itself literally in time, and it's just nice to have.

There is a mod-able canister that I like well enough that I'm going to try out when I can, and the rest is "off the shelf" stuff. A remote filter mount kit, some barb to NPT fittings, an oberg, a restricting plug(carb jet), and time.

[getnpsi]

A homemade system cannot be that hard to make don't you just T off the pressure line like you're doing a turbo and it goes To tp instead of a turbo? That is still very difficult to comprehend on a car I just saw someone buy on here which indicates three hundred forty thousand miles on it.

I plan to add an oil cooler and remote mount, use a much larger size spin on. I think the super capacity will do me good and I will probably get an oil analysis.

With OP's investment I suggest you do oil analysis along the way before and after completion and with some miles on her after new supplemental oil system

[sketchman]

The problem with a DIY system is the canister. It needs to be a weird size to fit the TP roll tight and compress it when screwed together. The purpose built ones available are expensive, but there is a holdover design that isn't used for its original purpose any longer that can be made to work easily.

Cost comes from the 2 filters and the little bits and pieces. It adds up quick. It would be even more, but I'm looking at a NOS oberg instead of the new models.

[getnpsi]

Once complete youll get savings back. Addons like these can go right onto another vehicle in the future. Im interested in your parts list on completion.

[sketchman]

I've worked on it some more this morning. After some more research I've decided I'll do away with the crude filter completely and just use a bypass on its own.

This not only simplifies things, but it also brings the total down to just under $200 and should include everything needed to install the system. That doesn't include the mods needed to the canister to make it work for oil instead of what it's now sold to do, but that part is tiny.

So far it looks pretty much bolt-on too, which is awesome. I'll get a parts list together when I have it in. If I can remember to get enough pics I'll even do a write-up.

Also you could do this even cheaper than what I'm looking at. Just tap into a pressurized oil source like previously mentioned turbo oiling, and leave the stock stuff as it is. That would get you out of the $50 remote filter mount kit, but I'm going for mostly bolt-on and go. The only thing to be done to the car with the way I want to do it is to fit a drain for the bypass filter and mount the canister wherever. Other than that it all bolts on.

[db2u]

This stuff seems to be pretty resonable for a bypass system, is this kind of similar to what you are building? http://www.frantzoil.com/catalog.html

[sketchman]

Sort of, but if you look at the "Current News" page, they lost their manufacturer last year. I don't know how much of that is available or what the kits come with. Their design also doesn't compress the TP like the one I want to use does, nor is it completely bolt-on.

The cheapest (only I think) full kit I see on there is a NOS one, and takes some doing to install, if they still have any of them.

[sketchman]

I worked some more on this. TONS of eBay searching and Googleing later it's at $176.63 for a bypass only install. This does not include modding the canister or things like hose clamps, teflon tape, and other things I considered consumables. Just the bare hardware. Also, you might be able to do this cheaper if you have local suppliers for the fittings and hose. I have to do everything through the internet. So, here we go.

1. 1 - Motorguard M-60 "Compressed Air Filter" Canister - eBay - WARNING: do not use as-is. Needs modded to work for oil.
2. 1 - 1/2" npt all female T fitting - eBay
3. 2 - 5/8" barb x 1/2" npt straight adapter - eBay
4. 2 - 5/8" barb x 1/2" npt 90 degree adapter - eBay
5. 3 - 1/4" barb x 1/2" npt straight adapter - eBay
6. 1 - 0.065" nitrous flare jet - eBay
7. 1 - 1/2" npt check valve - eBay
8. 1 - 1/2" npt male to male union - eBay
9. 1 - 1/4" check valve - eBay
10. 1ft - 5/8" silicone heater hose - rated for high heat and 300psi burst pressure - eBay
11. 10ft(depends on where you want to mount the canister) - 1/4" silicone hose - eBay
12. 1 - Spin-on filter adapter - Jegs.com

Some things to remember if one happens to want to do this before I write it up. There is a reason the thing is called Motorguard and not tankguard or toolguard. It was originally designed to do exactly what I'm going to do with it. With 2 changes it can do it again no problem. It needs a metal center tube and an oil resistant gasket. Both easy to do. I had originally intended to use a whole remote filter kit. I found I could save $15 and not have leftover parts(you don't need the filter end of the kit, just the block end) by just getting the block adapter, barb adapters, and hose separately. This also gives you a free-er flowing main loop than the full adapter kit does. 5/8" hose and barbs instead of 1/2" that comes with the full kit. Because remember 1/2" barb inner diameter is smaller than 1/2" npt ID. Lastly, the check valves are to simulate the anti-drainback valve in a stock spin-on filter. Leave them out if you want, but I wouldn't.

Separate thread to come with details and pics.

[Rocketman]

I'd look for something other than heater hose even if it is rated for high heat and 300psi... if that pops there goes your engine. done. Some AN lines with proper fittings or if you want to be cheap get some flare adapters and bend up some large diameter brake line. I'd trust metal more than rubber here

[sketchman]

I thought about that, but after searching a good bit, decided to try it. The stuff that comes with the full remote mount filter kits is smaller but basically the same stuff, and searching seems to suggest that it'll be fine.

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Derale/D15700.html

If you feel particularly careful you could use lengths of metal pipe split lengthwise slid over the hose and clamped in place so the hose isn't taking any pressure and stays rigid. I don't think I'll do that, though.

[getnpsi]

I always thought that the systems that have two filters in line via bulhead will work as a regular filter and a bypass some of them use the Ford Motorcraft fl1a frampha8 size and if you make one as your regular filter and one your bypass in line that would work fine that kit s about $110 by itself.

since I have owned about 15 cars in my life and have added lots of extra parts I only need things here and there to make a system for my festiv.l I want to add an air to air oil cooler and remote now I don't have to start from scratch but this good info for a bypass just for filtering but I want to do both. the generic ebay honda oil cooler kits have most of what you need you just need that bypass thing to restrict flow and I think that would work just fine