How to make steering easier?!

[Advancedynamix]

Done right the difference should be very noticeable. I suspect that you have omitted to install the Rio top hats, or else neglected to place strategic 'contact' washers on top of the strut. If said strut rides on both inner and outer of the Rio bearing then you've defeated the purpose. This whole business is otherwise a no-brainer; Rio/Aspire/Festy/Capri/Escort etc struts are much the same in use and function but it is only Rio 'hats' that have a real bearing inside. Instead of relying on 'maybe lubricated' bushings, metal and nylon washers tightly rubbing against another to provide 'least friction', when turning the wheel.
Two years into this I wouldn't trade Rio hats for any sort of OEM set up.

CAPRI and Escort/protege both have ball bearings as well, but the Rio is the only direct replacement. I have Capri innards in stock Festiva shells, because I didn't know about the Rio mounts when I built my suspension The Capri/ Festiva hybrid mount sits up in the body higher, so it allows me to run the car lower with the same suspension travel. Also I bonded them with the suspension set the way I like it, so they aren't in a bind at all.

[rockin86ranger]

I learned to drive on a ranger with no power steering, I never had a problem with the steering on the festiva once you are rolling even a little bit the steering gets easy. Of course I once had a power steering line blow on my international at work, talk about difficult, try shifting a ten speed right at the splitter on the way into the parking lot and needing two hands to steer it was an interesting ordeal.

[db2u]

So basically the answer to the question is to do a rio strut and mount swap, but this may not be applicable to the OP since he is not automotive inclined. You have to:
1) cut the springs in the swap, AND
2) swap the rear to aspire,

otherwise you have a lifted front with incorrect camber, and two diff bolt patterns.

[nitrofarm]

^ Basically-When I installed the Rio Hats on my car the front when down and the back went up and the steering effort seemed the same. Then when I lowered the rear with Coil-overs and made the car "Level". Thats when the steering effort got stupid easy. You def dont want to use the RIO springs The stocker fit fine in the Rio hats. PS I didnt want to cut coils I didn't want that much spring rate I'm waiting to do a true coil-over in the front.

[lessersivad]

So basically the answer to the question is to do a rio strut and mount swap, but this may not be applicable to the OP since he is not automotive inclined. You have to:
1) cut the springs in the swap, AND
2) swap the rear to aspire,

otherwise you have a lifted front with incorrect camber, and two diff bolt patterns.

Maybe I missed it, but i don't recall reading anything in this particular posting about swapping the knuckles.

Only the struts with "top hats".

Thus no wheel bolt pattern change.

[Matthew Ring]

Okay, so to answer a few questions. The car is Automatic (Have no idea how to drive stick, awful of me right?!) But does one of you mind PMing me with how to swap the Rio Topmounts with the Festiva mounts and if I will need to change the whole strut or I can just change the mount? If this proves to be to difficult I do know there are some Fellow forum members that live in my general vicinity so I can PM them and ask them if they can help me out with this! This is probably the greatest community for cars I've seen on the internet, I love it!

[TorqueEffect]

Done right the difference should be very noticeable. I suspect that you have omitted to install the Rio top hats, or else neglected to place strategic 'contact' washers on top of the strut. If said strut rides on both inner and outer of the Rio bearing then you've defeated the purpose. This whole business is otherwise a no-brainer; Rio/Aspire/Festy/Capri/Escort etc struts are much the same in use and function but it is only Rio 'hats' that have a real bearing inside. Instead of relying on 'maybe lubricated' bushings, metal and nylon washers tightly rubbing against another to provide 'least friction', when turning the wheel.
Two years into this I wouldn't trade Rio hats for any sort of OEM set up.

The struts are straight off a Rio, with no modifications. So bearing and all. Made no noticeable steering effort changes

But yeah, you won't have camber issues, but you will have toe issues unless you get it realigned. At least this is the case for me with them uncut.

Sent from my SPH-M950 using Tapatalk

[db2u]

Honestly if the tires are inflated properly, these cars should not be THAT hard to steer. Once you learn how to drive a car with no power steering, you learn that any amount of movement forward or backward makes them very easy to steer. The times that you get in a place where you HAVE to move the wheel with no vehicle movement are few and far between, and really, my smallish ex wife didnt have any issue driving our old 323 with no PS, and that is a heavier car. I wouldn't get into that swap JUST to make steering easier.

[db2u]

Maybe I missed it, but i don't recall reading anything in this particular posting about swapping the knuckles.

Only the struts with "top hats".

Thus no wheel bolt pattern change.

Good point, for some reason was thinking the whole swap would be done. but spring cuts do still apply, from what I was reading, it was a pretty noticeable lift if you didn't cut them.

[TorqueEffect]

Good point, for some reason was thinking the whole swap would be done. but spring cuts do still apply, from what I was reading, it was a pretty noticeable lift if you didn't cut them.

Yeah I really need to cut mine before I chew up the tires anymore. But I just need to get a hold of a grinder with a cutoff disc.

[Team Lightning]

On my Rio struts, before I decided to build my coil-overs, I cut 1.75 coils from the Rio springs. On a stock Festiva, I would start by removing 1.25 coils and see if I liked that height.

[getnpsi]

Oh good news. I did rios cut 1.5 but they still arent on the car happy dance

[F3BZ]

part of your problem. just the auto trans is over 50LB. heavier than the manual. now you know why festy drivers are such upper-body strength monsters.

[jawbraeka]

part of your problem. just the auto trans is over 50LB. heavier than the manual. now you know why festy drivers are such upper-body strength monsters.

I'm trying to leave you a pm and can't leave you a private.. Says you've exceeded your limit.

sent from the depths of hell.

[David88]

So basically the answer to the question is to do a rio strut and mount swap, but this may not be applicable to the OP since he is not automotive inclined. You have to:
1) cut the springs in the swap, AND
2) swap the rear to aspire,

otherwise you have a lifted front with incorrect camber, and two diff bolt patterns.

No. Have a good alignment shop check to see that the alignment is in tolerance and everything is as it should be. Get the best quality tire you can find or afford. Maintain proper tire pressure preferably in that order. This time of year tire problems spike. People haven't had to worry about tires through the warmer months. A fully inflated tire at 75 degrees will lose significant pressure when the temperature drops 75 -80 degrees. Your tire may seem nearly flat. No air needs to escape it just shrinks! The smaller the tire the bigger the effect.