New (to me) '89 Fi auto Festiva

[Corycarlo]

New to the forum here. Also new to a Ford Festiva. I bought this car a week ago, delivered from 3 hrs away, for $680. There is no rust on it and the engine has 90k on it. I bought it not running (wasn't getting spark) and after a new distributor it was up and running. I also put a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires on as a quick tune up. It now starts right up, however it does leak oil. It appears to be leaking from the front left side of the motor at the oil pan. I don't see any oil on the timing belt, so I'm hoping a new oil pan gasket will do the trick. Hoping its not the crank seal. Does this sound likely? Also if it is a crank seal what should be a good price for a garage to fix it as I work 14hr days and just recently bought a new house without a garage ? Secondly I have let it sit and idle for up to 15 mins and the engine temp does not seem to go up. Does the car have to be driven to really heat up to optimal running temp or does it seem like something else is going on? Thanks in advance for any info and I looking forward to driving this fun little car!

[TominMO]

More likely that it's the crank seal than the pan gasket. Also check the cam seal and valve cover seal. Do the cam seal yourself when it gets warm enough. You will pay a lot to have the shop do it. Plus that would be a good time (no extra labor time involved) to install new timing belt and accessory belt, or at least inspect them.

Engine temp could be no thermostat/stuck open T-stat, or a 180 degree T-stat. Or your temp sensor could be bad, or even the gauge (how is heat out the defrost and floor vents? There is no heat out the center dash vents.)

Where are you located? Might be forum members near you.

[Team Lightning]

To add to Tom's comments, I have a policy of changing the water pump anytime the timing belt is changed. It's cheap insurance and you already have the front of the motor taken apart.

[Corycarlo]

Next time I start it I will check the heat situation. Looks like I will order the valve cover gasket, cam seal, crank seal, timing belt and water pump. The accessory belt does look to be new. Just got done ordering some new 155/80r12s. Hopefully after these parts are put on it runs good for a good long time. Also the auto trans was down a quart. Any areas to check for a leak that these are prone to or could it just be due to useage and prior owner maybe not checking on it as he should have?

[Team Lightning]

I'd just keep an eye out for leaks in general. Also it could be as you said, PO just didn't keep up with it as they should have.

[Twistiva]

........ I bought this car a week ago, delivered from 3 hrs away, for $680. There is no rust on it and the engine has 90k on it.

90K miles for $680?

Nice score!! Even with it not running when you bought it that is a nice find!

[Corycarlo]

Thanks! Not quite sure how to post pics but I'll figure it out and get one up here. Pretty funny sticker came one the back hatch that ive sinced razored off but it read "Dont laugh, your daughter may be in here".ha Also should I get just the timing belt or also the tensioner with it?

[william]

Get the kit, tensioner and belt I like to do the water pump while I'm in there.

[Corycarlo]

Ok

[Corycarlo]

Also, on the air intake there is a hose that comes out the right and left sides. The hose that's suppose to come out the left side is missing as well as the black canister it goes to. Can I just cap this off and what was its originally purpose?
Thanks again

[william]

That is for intake noise reduction. I think?
Your intake from afm to throttle Body must have no leaks so yes you will have to cap it. Your car will not run very well if at all if there is a leak in the intake tube.

[Corycarlo]

Ok. I will cap it off. It runs good with it open bu I can tell it will run better capped.