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  • Another wheel question

    I had my compressor going today so I took the bolts out of one wheel. That IR impact had to really work @150#. Now what is the best way to get the wheel off? It's aluminum.
    Bernie in MA

  • #2
    You have feet, yes? Get stompy. You want to hit the top shoulder of the tire with the arch of your foot but towards the heel, and your foot should be moving close to perpendicular to the face of the wheel. Wear work boots if you have them, otherwise the potential for a foot/ankle injury is high. Master this technique and the only wheels that won't come off first kick are BMWs and some Toyotas.

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    • #3
      Spray the center hole with PB blaster or similar penetrating oil and use a large rubber mallet on the rim both front and backside....if there is room you could also try putting a pry bar between the rim and brake disc and work it back and forth. When you put it back on use anti-seze or grease on the contact surfaces and on the lug bolts.... been there dun that....lol Aluminum wheels have a way of doing that if they are left on for years....

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      • #4
        Different metals in contact, like aluminum and steel, produce a mild electrochemical change that causes both to adhere to one another. As noted, anti-seize or grease should keep it from getting too bad.

        Karl
        '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
        '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
        '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
        '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
        '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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        • #5
          Once the wheel is off clean up the hub and the wheel hole with sandpaper or wire brush until everything fits smooth and then brush on some grease or antiseize. Galvanic action will ruin alloys (and seixe them on to the hub!) so it may be a good idea to look for a set of steelies for the winter.
          Really having to whack the tire to get it off takes some getting used to. I used the flat of a sledge hammer until I relinquished my vanity and sought out steel wheels instead. GD alloys are really prone to leaks and overnight flats during the salty winter months.

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          • #6
            The only caveat with the stomping/kicking method is to ensure your jack-stands are solid. If you're paranoid, you can try using a small sledge hammer or mallet on the side-wall first.
            1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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            • #7
              I walk with a cane now because of naropthy in my upper legs so the kicking ain't gonna happen, lol. I've put the pene oil to it twice today and already got steel wheels.
              Bernie in MA

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              • #8
                when you go to hit that wheel with a hammer or anything else, put one lug nut back on about half way, then hammer away. One way to ensure that your wheel will come off easily next time is to use anti seize, clean the back of the wheel and clean the brake drum or hub, apply anti seize, re-mount the wheel and tire, torque the nuts and your done.
                An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

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                • #9
                  Thanks Bert, for the term "galvanic action." I shoulda used it.

                  Karl
                  '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                  '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                  '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                  '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                  '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

                  Comment

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