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Just curious because I don't want to have to go to the yard tomorrow and take time off work...
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1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed
daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T -
Nevermind, found my answer in an old thread. Yes they are, but you can drill out the holes a bit to make them fit. I'll just go get a festy one.1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed
daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T -
you might want to consider these differences. the aspire one might be a little longer. this might account for the increased track someone mentioned awhile back. i think you need the aspire dust caps also because of this.
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The Aspire stub bolt pattern is different as well. I have an Aspire rear beam with Aspire stubs on it, but with that dinggleberry cut off because it has Festy backing plates (hole slotted to fit) and Festy drums. Had to use the Aspire cap for it to fit.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DDComment
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How on earth do I get these stupid things off? I know the nuts are in the back, but good lord is this difficult...
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
Scrapped
1991 Blue L 5-speed
daily driver, intermittent project
1993 rustless wonder
A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6TComment
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