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  • This is near the end

    My daughter came to me and told me the passenger door was clicking when she opened it. Turns out it was hitting the front fender.. Upon further inspection, the frame at the front has rotted and it looks like the nose on the passenger side has dipped a bit. Well, this got me to looking over the whole car. Turns out most of the drivers floor is gone, about half of the passenger floor is gone. My kid's feet were only off the ground because of the carpet!!!!... Fan belt was squeeling (Again after putting on the new belt)..
    Retightened the belt so that's ok. Bought some sheet metal and am going to pull the carpet and set up a new floor pan coming this next weekend, but nothing to be done about the frame, so as long as it is stable, it stays until it is done

  • #2
    you could part it out once its done for.

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    • #3
      Part it out its done . The car is not safe for the road .
      New build on the way .

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by shadetree View Post
        Part it out its done . The car is not safe for the road .
        I have to agree with Shadetree on this!
        If the front end has collapsed enough to bind the door it is done.
        Might consider this for its frame/body to get you back online:



        Price reduced to $300.
        Last edited by Pu241; 09-22-2014, 04:24 PM.
        '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
        '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
        '92 Aqua parts Car
        '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
        '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

        "Your God of repentance will not save you.
        Your holy ghost will not save you.
        Your God plutonium will not save you.
        In fact...
        ...You will not be saved!"

        Prince of Darkness -1987

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        • #5
          Man, I'd give up on that. You're currently a small step away
          from driving like Fred Flintstone. Swapping your stuff into another
          car sounds like a great idea though
          1993 Festiva - White/Black - 5 speed

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          • #6
            I would not put any work into that at all. There's plenty more out there.
            91GL BP/F3A with boost
            13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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            • #7
              time to part it out!
              Doug's Daily Driver (Dad): '91 Ford Festiva L Manual "Old Yellow" got with 40,xxx mi... about 52,xxx mi. give or take now

              Austin's Daily Driver (mine) : '91 Ford Festiva GL Automatic "Whitie III" W/ 0.40 over aspire engine from '94 Aspire "New Blue" rebuilt 92,xxx mi. then... about 96,xxx mi. or more now (on body)

              Doug's work car: '95 Ford Aspire Manual "Whitie II" w/ swapped stock aspire engine from '95 Silver Aspire and has
              it's 5th transmission! 75,xxx mi... now with about 130,xxx mi.

              Sold! '89 Ford Festiva Manual "Gaystiva" (sold to my Uncle) - got with 163,xxx..... now 163,xxx Sold!

              TRANSFERRED! '89 Ford Festiva Automatic EFI "one hit wonder" Given to
              bolokid - got with 210,xxx ...... now with 210,xxx miles TRANSFERRED!

              '94 Ford Aspire SE Manual "Assfire" - got with at least 350,000 mi

              SOLD! '90 Ford Festiva L Manual look for Narion (or click the username) it's new owner on the forum! - got with 193,xxx miles... now has 193,xxx miles give or take SOLD!

              R.I.P '91 Ford Escort GT w/ bad engine..... stripping for parts then off to the scrapper!

              R.I.P '91 Ford Festiva Manual "Lil Red Rocket" bought brand new in 1991 with ~120 mi... ended with 227,xxx mi.


              R.I.P '97 Ford Aspire 4 Door Automatic "Ford Metro" parts car - got with about 144,xxx mi.... ended with 144,xxx mi

              R.I.P '95 Ford Aspire Manual Silver (one owner and one family car) got with about 50,000 miles ended with about 90,000 miles

              R.I.P '94 Ford Aspire Manual "New Blue" got with 150,xxx.... ended with about 200,xxx (it's engine is the .40 engine in my GL)

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              • #8
                I have to agree with the above I'm doing the same to mine and it's not nearly as bad as that.
                Mines around the rear beam mounts

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                • #9
                  these cars were never bank vaults when new. add 20+ yrs. of metal fatigue and rust and the proliferation of SUVs weighing 3 times as much sharing the road. as an adult, do what you want but maybe consider not letting your daughter drive or ride in it.

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                  • #10
                    I would get a good Festy shell and swap parts.
                    Shadow, my dd, is severely rusted as well, but seems like a solid frame and body still. I have a parts car right now that has a much better rust free frame & if I don't get a 1st generation B6 in it first I will use the parts car to do the switch when & if it comes time!
                    Last edited by muleskinner; 09-22-2014, 04:46 PM.
                    1993 Ford Festiva L blue 170,000 miles
                    1990 Ford Festiva L Plus white 190,000 Auto, currently waiting to have another engine put in.
                    1995 Ford F150 XLT black 203,000 miles
                    2002 Honda CRV silver 180,000 miles
                    2003 Toyota Rav4 Sport black 94,000 miles
                    2008 Sym Rv250 dark grey 30,000 miles. My scooter.
                    1989 Ford Festiva LX black 233,000 miles. Sold to my better half's son.

                    Mike

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                    • #11
                      Agree, too dangerous to drive. If you can't find a good enough shell up there, I could sell you Matthew as a roller (basically everything but motor/tranny/axles/exhaust) to flat-tow back there. Matthew is EFI, but is your car EFI or carby?

                      Possibly we could meet in Bloomington or Springfield, IL, but first I have to get another car set up for towing (ironically Matthew has a strong 1.25" hitch welded in, but will have no motor, so I can't tow with it). Matthew would have a rust-free hood, door and wiper/washer hatch, all of them white like the car itself is. All Matthew's rust issues were superficial, and I have dealt with them.

                      I was planning on stripping the car and getting rid of the empty shell, but it would be nice to keep him on the road. We could discuss price depending on features (i.e. do you want the radio, seats, etc.). All brake and suspension parts are in good shape. He's still a beater IMO, but a solid one. Festy brakes, new Aspire Monroe rear struts, good used KYBs on the front. Blue/grey GL door cards w/pockets. Side windows tinted ~50%. Windshield badly cracked, but good-used replacement one included in the deal.

                      Edit: Here's some pics: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?51458-Matthew/page2

                      That is not the hatch on it currently BTW. I haven't installed the good hood yet, due to clearance issues with Matthew's custom intake. Nor have I installed the rust-free driver's door, but will do it this week. He would come with four 155/80x13s (cheap but good tread) on Metro steelies, plus a 12" spare. I will want the console stuff, but might find good replacements.
                      Last edited by TominMO; 09-22-2014, 05:44 PM.
                      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                      Disaster preparedness

                      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Also in agreement. There's cosmetic rust (which doesn't hurt anything) and there's structural rust. My suzuki sidekick I use for adventuring has loads of cosmetic rust (which I've cut and fab'ed a few places) but the important stuff is solid. I have a 5 year old and as much as I'll risk my own safety (safety 3rd!) I won't risk his safety.

                        Just my 2 cents.

                        FX
                        Last edited by festyxfi; 09-22-2014, 05:55 PM.
                        Because....45 MPG.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm glad to hear that folks here are not blinded in worship of become-old unibody cars. Like you I live in the rust belt and oiled the 'feces' out of my Festys every chance I got during the past 10 years. Despite that the floors got soft and rust holes slowly appeared in the firewall/hatch etc etc. When trailing arms, spring pockets and brake backing plates start developing holes then you know for certain the car is getting near the end. If you're serious about a long-term relationship with a Festy then obtaining a southern body is an absolute must as is hiding the car away during the winter months.
                          Pretend you own an MGB, Fiat 128 or a Llada; those cars literally dissolved withing 3-4 Ontario winters whereas the average Festy toughed it out for about 10-11!

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                          • #14
                            Bert - do you hate life or something? You're always so negative.... Not all cliffs have protective fences, just saying

                            1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                            1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                            2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                            1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                            If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Damkid View Post
                              Bert - do you hate life or something? You're always so negative.... Not all cliffs have protective fences, just saying
                              No. Being entirely realistic. Vintage and Classic cars (and Festys are darn near there!) you see on the road are sourced in the south and/or have not been wintered as daily drivers for 2 decades in the north. Unibody vehicles are unlike body on frame designs in that any holes, creases or corrosion compromise the structural integrity of the vehicle. Over the past 10 years I have been thoroughly impressed with the longevity and quality of steel that was used in Festys but no amount of effort can overcome the long term effect of O2 and moisture. I've always been a believer in using vehicles to full advantage and Festys are especially good in snow but as a consequence have had to retire all three of mine last spring, despite their having been routinely oil-sprayed. Having said that 21 years is pretty amazing; cars my parents owned all during the 50s, 60s and 70s only ever averaged 8-10 years before they got hauled off for scrap.

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