What oil do you use?

[TWFodor]

I searched on the forums through 26 pages of mind numbing material, but was unable to find a thread that gave the best option of oil for our Festivas.

I have a standard B3 with 219,000 on the clock. Normally I just take it to Sears and get a standard $18 oil change, but I'm going to change my oil myself this weekend.

What oil should I use?

[sketchman]

The thin runny kind.

[ryanprins13]

I presume the manufacturers recommendation of 5w30 when its cold and 10w30 when its hot isn't good enough for you so are you asking about weight or brand name?
Where do you live?
Whats your driving like, how many km/yr, do you race it/beat on it/ haul trailers/ drive only gravel roads/drive on salt flats...


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[harpon]

Straight 40 weight detergent- it won't break down.

A lot of people are of the opinion that multigrade oils don't really alter that much with conditions, but really tend to be somewhere below the middle of their viscosity ratings.

P.S.- never use Dollar General oil- if you ever look at any, you can see it isn't very well refined. Wal-mart is the best place for cheap oil- unless it's onsale somewhere else-

and generally the best place for a low cost filter, outside of ebay
The best part of a Festiva or Aspire is having almost a half court of oil after an oil change.

The Aspire is almost up to 116,000, and I still NEVER have to add any between changes.

[william]

Personally I just get what ever is on sale at my local walmart. 3 quarts of 10-30 and a pourolatar filter and a bottle of stp with zddp? It's in a blue bottle. This make a perfect oil change (amount wise). And the stp helps with ticking lifters.

[bhazard]

Rotella

[jaketlong11]

Valvoline racing vr1 cant remember the weight and a k&n race filter completely worth it.

[TWFodor]

Mainly asking brand name. Many people prefer certain brands for various reasons. I should have clarified.

I live in a mainly flat area, I baby my car 95% of the time to maximize MPG, never haul, I live on a half-mile gravel road. Roughly 15k miles/yr.

[TorqueEffect]

Currently running 10w-30 vr1 racing Valvoline with Purolator PureOne filter. I wouldn't recommend the oil unless you can get it cheap like I did.

I will say I haven't heard a single lifter tick with high zddp oils. since these engines were designed when oils had far higher zddp content, they run beautifully with racing oils, or zddp additives.

I say though, brand doesn't matter, the only reason there are so many different brands, is because of ignorant brand loyalty. At least it helps keep prices down some.

Buy the cheapest, proper weight oil that has the API label on the back. Like someone said before, avoid Dollar General oil, that stuff isn't certified at all and should be illegal to sell.

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[Stinsin63]

Valvoline Dura-Blend 5-W30 with a Motorcraft FL-810 filter. My engine seems to run little quieter and the oil lasts a bit longer.

[navdoc101]

Castrol High Mileage 5W30 with K&N filter
ALL oil is the same at temp., the difference is at start up.
Read www.bobistheoilguy.com

[ryanprins13]

Well for brand recommendations you would still have to say if you have decided on synthetic or conventional.*
And how long are your trips in time and miles generally?
If its shorter than 20 minutes regularly your probably not burning all the water/condensation out and would want a slightly better oil.*
Then it depens how often you want to change it. Get amsoil or mobile 1 synthetic and an amsoil or royal purple filter and you can change your oil once a year. Or Get the cheapest full synthetic there is and any premium filter and do 2 oil changes a year. Or go with a really good conventional and do 3 oil changes a year. Or get the cheapest conventiontional oil when its on sale (other than house brands!) and do 5 oil changes a year.*
Any brand of oil on the shelf now is better than what was available when these cars were new and will be fine. Some additives like zddp will be missing but have been replaced with others. But for cheap to be fine the lower quality oils need to be changed more often.*
Your driving habits sound super easy on the oil if your commute burns off the water.*
Oil temp on my civic with highway driving takes 20min to reach 212f at 25c ambient. Thats the boiling point of water. Temps at the mains and big ends is generally 20-30f hotter but only momentarily and water just begins to boil at 212f so i still think your oil has to get that hot.*
These festivas are not hard on oil so they do not require a particular brand or special property. ANY brand will be fine as long as its the proper viscosity and you change it at the appropriate time for that oil. Some oils may have less or more lifter tick on these cars but i believe thats more due to viscosity.*
If you want to go with the best conventional oil there is or want to know more about oil head over to bobistheoilguy.com *
There is years worth of reading about oils there so make good use of the search function to find what you want to know. Lots of used oil analysises there.*
I use castrol gtx conventional because it goes on sale real cheap quite often. 427k and i didnt burn oil until last year when my spark plug porcelin fell into the cylinder and scored up the walls i think. I race, drive it hard, start in down to -40c temps in winter (we have long winters and -25c mornings are normal) tow, haul heavy stuff in the back whenever i can because its fun. I have always used cheap conventional oils and change them every 6-7000km (3500-4500miles)*


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[ryanprins13]

And can someone tell me why i always get these stupid asterix?


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[ryanprins13]

Castrol High Mileage 5W30 with K&N filter
ALL oil is the same at temp., the difference is at start up.
Read www.bobistheoilguy.com

Would you mind clarifying what you said so people aren't confused?
Wouldn't want people thinking 50weight and 0w16 are the same at 212f or that the additives are all the same in any oil.


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[TWFodor]

Well for brand recommendations you would still have to say if you have decided on synthetic or conventional.*
And how long are your trips in time and miles generally?
If its shorter than 20 minutes regularly your probably not burning all the water/condensation out and would want a slightly better oil.*
Then it depens how often you want to change it. Get amsoil or mobile 1 synthetic and an amsoil or royal purple filter and you can change your oil once a year. Or Get the cheapest full synthetic there is and any premium filter and do 2 oil changes a year. Or go with a really good conventional and do 3 oil changes a year. Or get the cheapest conventiontional oil when its on sale (other than house brands!) and do 5 oil changes a year.*
Any brand of oil on the shelf now is better than what was available when these cars were new and will be fine. Some additives like zddp will be missing but have been replaced with others. But for cheap to be fine the lower quality oils need to be changed more often.*
Your driving habits sound super easy on the oil if your commute burns off the water.*
Oil temp on my civic with highway driving takes 20min to reach 212f at 25c ambient. Thats the boiling point of water. Temps at the mains and big ends is generally 20-30f hotter but only momentarily and water just begins to boil at 212f so i still think your oil has to get that hot.*
These festivas are not hard on oil so they do not require a particular brand or special property. ANY brand will be fine as long as its the proper viscosity and you change it at the appropriate time for that oil. Some oils may have less or more lifter tick on these cars but i believe thats more due to viscosity.*
If you want to go with the best conventional oil there is or want to know more about oil head over to bobistheoilguy.com *
There is years worth of reading about oils there so make good use of the search function to find what you want to know. Lots of used oil analysises there.*
I use castrol gtx conventional because it goes on sale real cheap quite often. 427k and i didnt burn oil until last year when my spark plug porcelin fell into the cylinder and scored up the walls i think. I race, drive it hard, start in down to -40c temps in winter (we have long winters and -25c mornings are normal) tow, haul heavy stuff in the back whenever i can because its fun. I have always used cheap conventional oils and change them every 6-7000km (3500-4500miles)*


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Conventional or synthetic, either one, doesn't matter to me.

I'm split with trip distance. Half of my trips are about 6 miles. 55mph almost the whole trip. On the other hand, I have plenty of trips that are a good 20 miles, or about 25 minutes of driving, mostly highway.

I'll check out that website you included.

Couldn't tell ya about the asterisks.