Couple of questions

[Jeffs89festiva]

1. 0227161600_HDR.jpg
This is the carb breather on the underside, I believe it connects to the intake manifold, what is the piece that connects to it and where might I find one?
2. I had a vacuum line in the carb off I've put it back on but it hasn't changed the status of it idling high, it does so when I start it up and will continually increase, also does it when heat is on. Suggestions? Also car revs a bit when changing gears? Seems to want to keep going even though the gas is not being pushed in?
Where might I find interior or any other parts for this car online?
Thanks for your help!

[lessersivad]

As I do NOT own a carbed festiva I'm going to simply take a guess on the air filter assembly connection.

By rights I would say there should be a corrugated tube that runs from the connection you've shown to a same sized tube connection just over the EXHAUST manifold. Actually I would think there should be a heat shroud around the exhaust manifold.
This tube allows warm air to be 'inhaled' by the carb when it's cold. This helps prevent frosting the carb and aids in warm up.

As i said, I don't own a carbed Festy and I'm sure someone else with more expertise will chime in.

[ryanprins13]

As I do NOT own a carbed festiva I'm going to simply take a guess on the air filter assembly connection.

By rights I would say there should be a corrugated tube that runs from the connection you've shown to a same sized tube connection just over the EXHAUST manifold. Actually I would think there should be a heat shroud around the exhaust manifold.
This tube allows warm air to be 'inhaled' by the carb when it's cold. This helps prevent frosting the carb and aids in warm up.

As i said, I don't own a carbed Festy and I'm sure someone else with more expertise will chime in.

I have a carbed parts car and thats how it was.


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[F3BZ]

hopefully you still have the heat shield on the exhaust manifold since this has the nipple for the tube. here's the exact part

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-NOS-OEM-Tracer-Festiva-Air-Cleaner-Duct-Tube-Part-E7GZ-9652-A-/161925473417?hash=item25b382a489:g:AnYAAOSwNyFWeYTA&vxp=mtr

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

One of my LXs was missing this part, so I ordered one -- $13.99 incl USPS shipping -- off ebay. Hopefully this fixes my fast idle!

I did check the local Ford dealer first; as expected, they laughed at me.

[Jeffs89festiva]

0312161711_HDR.jpg
Ok thanks guys I appreciate it. While I was underneath car today I found a vacuum line that was not hooked up, anyone tell me what it's called, it's missing the other nipple preventing it from connecting. It looks like it's a bolt that screws into bottom of carburetor with 2 nipples, it's right above the oil filter.

[tooldude]

Those are thermal vacuum valves which control vacuum by opening & closing at appropriate temperatures. Both of them are screwed into a coolant passage in the manifold. Possibly the broken-off nipple is still in the loose vacuum hose. Depending on how it's broken, & with it cleaned up, it may be possible to carefully reattach it to the valve. The problem is, it's a brass base with a plastic end & the plastic is going to be expanding & contracting. Epoxy may work and/or possibly silicone rubber could hold it. I've never tried it. That valve is supposed to apply vacuum to the Fast Idle Cam Breaker diaphragm on the carb, as coolant warms to 122*F, which then forces the throttle shaft lever off the high step on the fast idle cam (below the choke), & the engine idles down (the function you've lost). With the engine more warmed up & the choke open, you may be able to idle it down by tapping on the throttle. The hose that broke off should be the one that goes to the FICB diaphragm. So, if the valve is still operating & not stuck, as it opens you will have a vacuum leak to the manifold & the engine will idle higher. Therefore, the other vacuum hose needs to be plugged for now. Be careful with the nipple - maybe snip the hose with wire cutters & cap the metal vacuum tube where it's attached. The vacuum valves can be really stuck tight & trying to remove them can collapse the brass base & break the plastic. It's best to heat the area around them some & use a 6 point line wrench if you want to remove them. I believe the engine flare between shifts is programmed in because the carb has no dashpot and would allow RPM's to drop too quickly, causing a jerk on acceleration. It's normal for the engine to be idled up with electrical loads: headlights, heater fan, radiator fan, A/C. There are adjustments for this as well as the engine idle screw on the right rear of the carb which may need adjusting. Check the linkage & cable for binding also. Then, if the racing continues, you will have to check for other vacuum leaks.

[Jeffs89festiva]

Very thorough detailed explanation. Do you happen to know the part number, or where I might find one. I've looked for the last couple of hours online and can't seem to find a match

[Jeffs89festiva]

I somewhat found a match on partsgeek.com but instead of it being a 2 nipple piece it's a 3 piece nipple, can I just cap the other off and call it good. Like I said partsgeek.com list it as a match for my particular vehicle.
Here's the link to the part, it lists it as a vacuum switch in guessing this is the same thing.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog

[Jeffs89festiva]

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1989/ford/festiva/body_electrical/ported_vacuum_switch.html

[bravekozak]

They sell those heat riser adapter tubing at most speed shops. They sell the flex tube with an adapter to attach onto a single header tube.

[Jeffs89festiva]

Yeah I've found that part it's on the way, thanks