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  • Car Wonders After Alignment

    I got the car aligned friday. Now it wonders! I checked and replaced the rear bearings. one was bad. Now the tires all feel tight and no play at all. The car still has some wonder tho. It feels like im in high wind.

    I know the camber is not set perfect in the front. The rear is all stock camber wise. The camber in the front is the same it has been for a couple weeks now. Why would the alignment cause it to wonder? If i adjust the camber to be even would that help much?

    I just dont get why its doing it now and not before the alignment.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

  • #2
    I have had alignments "professionally" done that were way off.
    Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
    Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
    "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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    • #3
      A car with deep thinking, how interesting. What is your car wondering about? (Sorry, couldn't resist. When read the way it is written, it is funny.) Wander is the word you are looking for.

      The suspension gurus will chime in, but I am guessing a non seasoned alignment tech did your work. The only factory adjustment is toe in the front. Nothing else can be adjusted.
      Last edited by nonamekid; 04-25-2016, 11:48 AM.
      The Festiva Store
      Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

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      • #4
        I checked it with my toe plates. I was seeing 0 toe with my plates. I gave each tie rod just a touch of toe inward to try and fix the issue. It seemed to help a touch. So i might have 0 - 1/32 toe total. Ill be looking at it in a minute to double check things.
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • #5
          Uneven camber will cause the car to pull, especially with zero toe.
          Also, the zero toe setup feels a bit wandery until you get used to it. The steering wheel won't return to straight as quickly as it does with toe. It will also try to follow abnormalities in the road surface (crowns, ruts ect.)
          Negative camber helps this condition a lot. If you try running zero toe with stock camber the car will be difficult to drive, however if you run zero toe with -3 degrees of camber the car will just feel a little weird at first until you get used to it. To me, the wander feeling is easy to get used to and it's worth the benefits that this setup yields (extended tire life, better fuel mileage, more HP to the ground without spinning, quicker turn in response, more stability in corners.)
          When your camber is not even, your contact patch will be different from side to side. This will cause the pull that you may be feeling. Toe in will help the car to track straight, but it's just a bandaid to the problem. You'll also see more tire wear with toe.
          You may also want to check all your bushings. Worn or damaged front suspension bushings cause these cars to do funny things under acceleration and deceleration.
          Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-25-2016, 12:11 PM.
          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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          • #6
            I think im going to widen the bottom bolt hole on my coilovers to allow better -camber. As of now its hard to get -2.5. If i could push the bottom out a hair ill be able to run 3°.

            I have my shims for the rear to run -3° total. Just gotta spend the time to adjust it all.
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
              I think im going to widen the bottom bolt hole on my coilovers to allow better -camber. As of now its hard to get -2.5. If i could push the bottom out a hair ill be able to run 3°.

              I have my shims for the rear to run -3° total. Just gotta spend the time to adjust it all.

              that would be assuming you started with 0 camber first, correct?
              Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
              Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
              "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

              Comment


              • #8
                My rear should be 0 or stock. If i use my shims to hit 3 thats all i can do. Im not good enough to fine tune past using a shim pack. The front i can only stick a digital angle gauge on it. I cant get super crazy on the numbers tho. I wont be able to drive like Charlie can so getting crazy with it is not for me. I just want to have fun with it.
                1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                Comment


                • #9
                  All I use is a digital level I bought from home Depot to set my camber. Nothing crazy about that.
                  Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    They sell a magnetic digital gauge on ebay for around 20 bucks. Just need to make sure your on a level surface basically. These are old cars. You may not be at zero camber.
                    Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                    Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                    "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If this is a complete stock setup with stock struts on the front, there is a slight bit of camber adjustment in the top mount.

                      If you look closely at the mount studs across the center rod bolt, they are not perfectly aligned but slightly offset. Use some sort of straight edge to confirm both sides are offset the same direction either towards the outside or inside.

                      If they're not, you can simply jack up the front and loosen the 2 mounting nuts, spin the top 180° and reinstall the nuts.

                      I'm not sure of the degree gain, it won't be much but it's there.

                      Probably about as clear as mud so sorry if it's not clear what I'm trying to explain.
                      Last edited by lessersivad; 04-25-2016, 06:56 PM.

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                      • #12
                        That's the factory adjustment point, and it's good for .5*
                        If you adjust the camber, the toe will also change. In this case if you add negative camber, you will toe in and visa versa.
                        Trees aren't kind to me...

                        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                          That's the factory adjustment point, and it's good for .5*
                          If you adjust the camber, the toe will also change. In this case if you add negative camber, you will toe in and visa versa.
                          Man, Arty, it is SO good to have you back on here!
                          Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                          Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                          "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by scitzz View Post
                            They sell a magnetic digital gauge on ebay for around 20 bucks. Just need to make sure your on a level surface basically. These are old cars. You may not be at zero camber.
                            I have a digital magnetic gauge! Thats how i set my camber now. The holes i opened up in the coilovers were done in a very bad way. Once i got the propper tool i was almost done. I got the camber close to the same when i 1st did the suspension. I didnt have time to really fine tune it on the red car yet. So who knows what the camber is right now!
                            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by lessersivad View Post
                              If this is a complete stock setup with stock struts on the front, there is a slight bit of camber adjustment in the top mount.

                              If you look closely at the mount studs across the center rod bolt, they are not perfectly aligned but slightly offset. Use some sort of straight edge to confirm both sides are offset the same direction either towards the outside or inside.

                              If they're not, you can simply jack up the front and loosen the 2 mounting nuts, spin the top 180° and reinstall the nuts.

                              I'm not sure of the degree gain, it won't be much but it's there.

                              Probably about as clear as mud so sorry if it's not clear what I'm trying to explain.
                              Car is not stock! I run the setup from charlie. SO i have the rio top hats with the bearing in them. I have the mounting holes on the coilover bodies opened up to allow more -camber. However i need to open the bottom hole up in the oppsite direction to allow even more camber angle. Then i need to take the time to adjust each side to be the same. As of now the coilover are just on the car. I didnt even get the angle gauge out to check what they were set to.
                              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                              Comment

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