New Guy...Just picked up a 93 Ford Festiva 5sp

[bhearts]

that is what I am thinking but then you have the guys on here that also have a similar pedal as mine which contradicts having a worn clutch disk. Guess i'm going to cross my fingers and hope I can put some miles on the car before having to do a new clutch replacement. which looks to be a nightmare

You can manhandle an e series transmission. That makes it alot easier.

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[firebush357]

Wouldn't tightening that nut make the Clutch disengage sooner? If you said it disengages at the very top of the pedal and then you tightened it it would be like holding your foot on the clutch while trying to drive. These clutch pedals in these cars don't travel very far to get them to disengage in my experience. Are you used to driving cars with Hydraulic Clutches?

[william]

^ +1
YES it would . That's why it was slip after the adjustment.
You had it adjusted where the throw out bearing was pushing on the pressure plate .

[Joeyman]

Wouldn't tightening that nut make the Clutch disengage sooner? If you said it disengages at the very top of the pedal and then you tightened it it would be like holding your foot on the clutch while trying to drive. These clutch pedals in these cars don't travel very far to get them to disengage in my experience. Are you used to driving cars with Hydraulic Clutches?

My Suzuki swift I believe has a hydraulic clutch and it isn't anything like the festiva is

I have a 89 Mustang GT foxbody. it has a clutch cable but has a self adjusting deal on it or you can lift up on the pedal to make it adjust.

[Eaglefreek]

My car has a brand new clutch and pressure plate. I only put it in because I replaced the engine. I have no idea how old the clutch that came out was, but the pedal feel is exactly the same between the two except that the new clutch is a little grabbier. Don't worry about the clutch. Just get used to it and enjoy the car. You may want to change out the timing belt since it has been sitting so long. However, these are non interference engines, so if it does break, it will just cost you a tow.

[Joeyman]

how about making adjustments here?

[firebush357]

Hydraulic Clutches seam to allow for more play in the pedal in my opinion, it takes a little while getting used to the cable clutch but once you start driving it for a little while it will fell normal. I have never adjusted it using the pedal as there is plenty of room for adjustment using that nut that you previously moved. You basically want to tighten that nut just enough where there is very little slack in it when the pedal is not depressed. With that low of miles on the car the Clutch should not need to be replace for a long while.

[TominMO]

Hydraulic Clutches seam to allow for more play in the pedal in my opinion, it takes a little while getting used to the cable clutch but once you start driving it for a little while it will fell normal. I have never adjusted it using the pedal as there is plenty of room for adjustment using that nut that you previously moved. You basically want to tighten that nut just enough where there is very little slack in it when the pedal is not depressed. With that low of miles on the car the Clutch should not need to be replace for a long while.

Theoretically yes, but I have known of people who had to have new clutches installed annually, because they didn't know to not keep the pedal pushed in while stopped at a light.

[Greywolf]

From the picture of the adjuster nut - it's in the middle of the range of adjustment. There's lots of room left to adjust it if the clutch disc wears some more over time.

To me it looks like it has plenty of life left in it.


*When the clutch disc wears down, it will begin to slip or you'll have to push the pedal farther. That's when you re-adjust it like you did after the test run. What you want (see the manual diagrams a few posts up) is to have about an inch or so of pedal freeplay (IE; from where it is when it is all the way let off, there should be about an inch of movement before you feel it begin to engage)

You can adjust it looser, but you really don't want a lot of slop in the cable.

DON'T confuse adjusting the cable with adjusting the clutch pedal switch. The clutch pedal switch is what prevents starting the engine when the clutch is not pressed down. It's a safety interlock, and will save you from trashing your wheels if your ride is left in gear when you park it.

[Joeyman]

I loosed the nut at the cable under the hood several more turns. it didn't make a difference. I took it around the block a few times I'll get use to it. I then had to go to the store in my Suzuki swift and killed the car right off the bat..lol because with the swift I have to press all the way to the floorboard and the car will start moving about an inch off the floorboard. total opposite the festiva.

[Joeyman]

I spent 3 hours last night trying to detail it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WiKZrxaucE&feature=youtu.be

[firebush357]

Looks good. I have yet to Vacuum mine since I picked it up about 9 months ago but it is getting about that time now that everything is mechanically sound and stopping well.

[TominMO]

Easy/cheap upgrade: Aspire front seats.

[Joeyman]

I'd like to put different wheels on it eventually.

Anyone else annoyed by the door buzzer. HOW ANNOYING! lol

[firebush357]

Might want to start looking before you buy tires so you don't have to buy two sets of tires.

There was a complete Aspire in my local junkyard that I wanted to get Seats and do the brake upgrade from but that Junkyard charges so much money. They charge you for every single piece that they possibly can, I think it would have come up to around 300-400 dollars for me to pull all the brake stuff and some seats.... Might as well just buy an Aspire from someone for that price so then I can have a spare engine and Trans etc...