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  • need help dailt car died

    I was driving down the road and it started to cut out like a lose battery cable. About 3 miles later it shut off but wouldnt come back on. It cranks for days but no spark. I have a new dissy, coil, wires, igniter. rotor is spinning. timing belt is still together. just zero spark.

    since i git the car it sometimes would have to be in neutral to start up.

    I have volts on the black wire with white strip going into the coil. just nothing comes out of the coil.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

  • #2
    How are you checking to see if the Coil is putting out power? Maybe the Plug Wire that goes from the Coil to the Dissy is malfunctioning for some reason? Or just got ahold of a bad coil?
    "The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
    sigpic
    "The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)

    "Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
    "Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
    "Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
    "Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car

    "El Flama Blanca" 1993 Festiva 104k miles. (Lil Brothers Car)
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzM...ew?usp=sharing

    Comment


    • #3
      Also, Have you checked the ground to the Coil? I'm not an expert of these matters just trying to throw out some troubleshooting... It might not even have a ground for all I know.
      Last edited by firebush357; 09-17-2016, 01:11 PM.
      "The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
      sigpic
      "The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)

      "Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
      "Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
      "Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
      "Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car

      "El Flama Blanca" 1993 Festiva 104k miles. (Lil Brothers Car)
      https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzM...ew?usp=sharing

      Comment


      • #4
        I have a test light that plugs into the coil. I have coils. one from a working car one that brand new. same with dissy and igniter.
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • #5
          Is this the b6t car?
          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

          Comment


          • #6
            no its the daily stock auto
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              It had the weird no start issue sometimes. But dropping down to netural and it would start each time. Also it would not go into reverse unless you went to park 1st.

              I have no clue what the issue is right now.
              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

              Comment


              • #8
                Check inside the coil, where the coil wire plugs into it, for corrosion.
                90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                Disaster preparedness

                Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                • #9
                  He's got power to the coil and has even swapped out a disty that I sent him from a running car. So would this be a power to the disty issue?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Temporarily jump B+ directly from the battery to the coil positive. If there is no spark then, the coil is probably not being grounded through the ICM.
                    When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Another thing that could kill spark would be a continuous ground at the coil negative (ground) side. That could be a short or improper wire connection. Also, a very high resistance in the circuit (such as burned Ignition Switch contacts) will allow voltage to be there but not proper or sufficient current (such as the coil needs). This can cause a low secondary voltage that will not jump a spark tester. A voltage check on a non-operating (open) circuit has limited meaning and mainly shows whether or not voltage is completely missing, not what voltage is during operation.
                      When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        So what should i check and how to do it?
                        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The guys here are knowledgeable & helpful. Try anything. What counts is finding your problem, not credit, ego, or being first. From my chair, I don't know your knowledge or tools. I can't depend on your spark checker to positively verify the spark issue. Acquire 2 jumper wires w/alligator clips & a remote starter switch or a helper for cranking. Jumper wire gauge should equal or exceed coil wires. (1) Secure the coil wire well, (as was previously suggested), no moving, 1/4"-3/8" from a clean ground, no paint. We want to verify if No Spark exists. Check without bright light or block it out, be sure you can verify. Crank engine. If spark exists, other problems must be pursued. (2) Still No spark: leave coil wire secured. You can bypass half the Ign circuit at a time. Connect a jumper wire with clips from battery positive to coil positive. This bypasses any problem in wiring & Ign Switch up to the coil. Crank & verify spark. Sparking indicates problems with Ign Switch, main fuse link, or wiring. Remove jumper. (3) Still No spark: bypass ground control circuit as follows: Remove all wires from coil negative terminal. Turn on ignition & connect a jumper to coil negative terminal. (Keep wire boot on coil tower & maybe use insulated pliers). Tap jumper end to a good ground and you should be making the coil spark. If spark exists, the coil is not being grounded by the ICM or there is a continuous ground from a short - problem is with wiring or module. Turn off Ignition & remove jumper. (4) Still no spark: connect positive side jumper as before. Connect negative side jumper & tap to ground. Coil is now definitely getting B+ & ground. There should be a good spark. No spark means the coil or coil wire is bad. Remove jumpers. ***This is all just a way that you can verify a spark or isolate the problem area fairly quickly & easily with minimal tools. This not the only way you could approach the problem.
                          When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

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                          • #14
                            Park safety switch.
                            1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

                            1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

                            1996 Ford F-150

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                            • #15
                              I think thats all it might be! any idea where this is and how i can bypass
                              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                              Comment

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