Alot of oil burning smoke when engine is cold

[Festiver]

So I'm thinking head gasket I did have a coolant problem a week or two ago where the engine much hotter than I'd like to admit didnt seize but got the guage almost to the red ever since has smoke shows when the engine is cold but when it heats up its all good but till then the engine has a serious problem it's drivable though just gotta make sure my plugs aren't fouled and my oil is still in the case lol

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[FestYboy]

Check your compression. Also you can pull the exhaust manifold and check the runners for excessive residue to help locate the issue.

[Festiver]

Check your compression. Also you can pull the exhaust manifold and check the runners for excessive residue to help locate the issue.

Thank you I did a dry and wet test it's rings rip this engine it's ok I just need to get another engine and rebuild it while I drive with this engine

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[FestYboy]

Where abouts in PA are you?

[Festiver]

Where abouts in PA are you?

Bangor PA

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[Advancedynamix]

Sorry to hear this man. You may want you try a seafoam treatment to free up those rings. I've seen it bring a smoker back a few times.

[Festiver]

Sorry to hear this man. You may want you try a seafoam treatment to free up those rings. I've seen it bring a smoker back a few times.

Thank you I'll give the seafoam a try but she's still my daily and I'm still gonna try to do the 8 1/2 hr to madness she runs well after shes warm just getting there is a smoke screen lol just gotta give her 10 min in the morning

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[Festiver]

saw this looking for what a good engine reads in a test and I was getting 75 psi across all cylinders lol this bp needs a rebuild bad Ill probably just get another block clean it, regasket, bearings, guides, and shave

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[Greywolf]

Whatcha wanna do is build a stand-by engine out of the original one once you swap it out. And just think: It HASTA be bigger once it's been bored out, right?

But if you're shopping mills - think B6T, or B6. :tm:

[FestYboy]

If it's 75 across the board, you may have the cam timing off. Did you do a wet test?

[Festiver]

If it's 75 across the board, you may have the cam timing off. Did you do a wet test?

Oh maybe I did redo it but and yeah it was 125 pretty even with some oil

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[ryanprins13]

Oh maybe I did redo it but and yeah it was 125 pretty even with some oil

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If its rings i think it should be higher than 125 with oil. Sounds like timing. Mine was roughly 115,100,110,120 but when i added oil they all went up to like 225.

[Festiver]

If its rings i think it should be higher than 125 with oil. Sounds like timing. Mine was roughly 115,100,110,120 but when i added oil they all went up to like 225.

Hmm that's a good point I'll definitely have to check timing and the oil could be explained by a very slight warped head I'll play with the timing tomorrow see if anything gets happier

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[Greywolf]

If it got hot enough to warp the head - but it didn't crack it, you may be able to pull the head, have it checked and decked, and see if the top of the block is straight using a straight edge. It may only be a bad head gasket - but since you'd have to pull the head anyway it's a good chance to have it checked and maybe look at the valves at the same time.

As far back as the mid seventies I was working at a Japanese car specialty shop, and iron blocks with alloy heads had a wikkid tendancy to warp the heads but spare the block. The good news is that even if the gasket surface has to be milled - that isn't a very expensive operation to have done. Any good machine shop should be able to handle it

*NOTE: Because cast iron and aluminum alloys have different heat expansion properties, the heads were usually the victim. It is very rare that a block would warp too.

[Festiver]

If it got hot enough to warp the head - but it didn't crack it, you may be able to pull the head, have it checked and decked, and see if the top of the block is straight using a straight edge. It may only be a bad head gasket - but since you'd have to pull the head anyway it's a good chance to have it checked and maybe look at the valves at the same time.

As far back as the mid seventies I was working at a Japanese car specialty shop, and iron blocks with alloy heads had a wikkid tendancy to warp the heads but spare the block. The good news is that even if the gasket surface has to be milled - that isn't a very expensive operation to have done. Any good machine shop should be able to handle it

*NOTE: Because cast iron and aluminum alloys have different heat expansion properties, the heads were usually the victim. It is very rare that a block would warp too.

Sadly I did have a radiator hose blow and the engine got hot not seizing overheating but hot it was in the upper 3/4 of the temp guage and I don't remember it really smoking before hand so the more I think the more it points to bad timing and the head next weekend I'll pull it off see what's what

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