Purchasing a 1989 Ford Festiva. Information?

[MichaelBrown86]

Hello, everyone. New to this forum, first time posting. I'd like to ask a few questions about purchasing a Ford Festiva.

I've owned many cars in my life and always enjoy finding something quirky. The Festiva with its ~1700 pound curb weight and great gas mileage seems like a car that could be both, a great commuter and something fun on the backroads.

I found one that seems to be in good overall condition: 150,000 miles, minimal rust, needs a windshield, rear wheel bearing, and driver side axle boot.

Is there anything else I should be looking for? Any problem areas or issues I should know about when I'm inspecting the car?

I believe it has the carbureted B3 engine with manual transmission. I would be interested in a straight forward swap that would update the drivetrain a bit. It'd be nice to find something didn't require a lot of headaches or downtime (again, I want to drive this thing, not look at it in my garage).

Do you have any recommendations? I see that the B6 engines from the Miata's, Protege's, and apparently even Kia's will bolt in without too much work (and pretty much double its horse power).


Thank you for your input.

[firebush357]

What kind of price are you looking at? I don't know about up there but the past two I bought in FL I paid under $600 for and they were 1993's. They had some body damage though so that helped keep the price down a little. Some people on Craigslist will list them for $1800+ but I would personally never pay that amount. If the car you are looking at is in Great body condition with no rust I would try to get it for less than $1200 personally. Just my thoughts though, don't let it stop you from buying an awesome car.

[MichaelBrown86]

What kind of price are you looking at? I don't know about up there but the past two I bought in FL I paid under $600 for and they were 1993's. They had some body damage though so that helped keep the price down a little. Some people on Craigslist will list them for $1800+ but I would personally never pay that amount. If the car you are looking at is in Great body condition with no rust I would try to get it for less than $1200 personally. Just my thoughts though, don't let it stop you from buying an awesome car.

The guy is selling it for $1,000 in its current condition. Considering no body damage, and depending on rust, I think it's a good deal. I've just never looked into these vehicles before, nor do I know their market value.

[Team Lightning]

Under side rust places are, axle mount points in the rear, underneath the doors, I'd check the complete underside of the car for rust.

[TominMO]

No rust is key for $1K, I'd say. If it's a manual 4-speed, that is highly preferable to an automatic for mileage. Also, 89 automatics were unique, so some parts for them are more difficult to find.

The ideal layout IMO is a 90 and later manual trans car. EFI and a 5-speed; less problematic than the carby, better fuel mileage and 5 more HP.

If you do want to get this car, offer him less than $1K and see what he will go for. And always assume a used car will have more wrong with it than you noticed beforehand. Luckily, overall they are pretty easy to work on.

[MichaelBrown86]

No rust is key for $1K, I'd say. If it's a manual 4-speed, that is highly preferable to an automatic for mileage. Also, 89 automatics were unique, so some parts for them are more difficult to find.

The ideal layout IMO is a 90 and later manual trans car. EFI and a 5-speed; less problematic than the carby, better fuel mileage and 5 more HP.

If you do want to get this car, offer him less than $1K and see what he will go for. And always assume a used car will have more wrong with it than you noticed beforehand. Luckily, overall they are pretty easy to work on.

I don't mind the stock engine and trans because my plan is to eventually swap in a B6, but I guess I should look for one with a 5-speed transmission as well.

I've seen a couple of swap threads on here and seems pretty straight forward, but when they say there is a need to "modify the mounts", Is that something I need fabbed up, or do I just need to notch the stock mounts, or something I can just throw in metal spacer and call it a day?

[FestYboy]

Festiva manual trans can be swapped willie nillie, so getting a 4 speed to start isn't a big deal. As for an engine swap in the 89, you'll want a plain jane b6. Then add an escort carb. No mounts needed.

[MichaelBrown86]

Festiva manual trans can be swapped willie nillie, so getting a 4 speed to start isn't a big deal. As for an engine swap in the 89, you'll want a plain jane b6. Then add an escort carb. No mounts needed.

Not a big fan of carbs. Don't have any experience with them. I also like the idea of a dohc efi.

[350freak]

Festiva manual trans can be swapped willie nillie, so getting a 4 speed to start isn't a big deal. As for an engine swap in the 89, you'll want a plain jane b6. Then add an escort carb. No mounts needed.

let me know how this goes, would love a small upgrade later on.

[1990new]

Another thing to consider for switch to efi is the wiring. 90-93's have wiring in place that would be missing in the 88-89.
The 88-89 interior arrangement, without passive restraint system and the molding that goes with it, is preferred by most people, and the interior rear seat, cargo area plastic panels are of superior quality. The seat foam is thicker and seat covers higher quality in the 88-89 LX and also in the 90-93 L Plus and GL models than in the L models.
Look for rust in the beam that goes across the front of the engine bay that the radiator feet rest in, under the battery carrier and where the lower control arms bolt to the body as well. Here in the South our Festivas rarely have problems with rust but those area are some areas where it can show up first, along with unpainted parts (especially if the car resided close to the coast).

[Studebaker]

You will be much happier with a 90 to 93 with a 5 speed. Get the best body you can find. Dont be afraid to travel for the right car.