Ultimate festiva discussion

[Festiver]

After many many hours reading forums and threads, there is a lot of information in my head and it's kinda confusing to say this is best this is not. So let's discuss what is the best upgrades or mods for a festiva now
let's set rules

1 at the top of each post the user should write if it's an idea or experience this will thin out questions of experience

2 if you have an idea give an explanation of why you believe it's a good idea and how itll work

3 no hate or passive aggression even if an idea is a bit obviously/silly this is one of the kindest car communities I've ever seen but people will sometimes get snappy

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[Festiver]

Now I think we all will agree that the advanced suspension that Charlie figured out is a must spring rates really very on how much weight you carry but let's say for a race car with no back seat and a b6t 150 front 105-120 rear (anyone agree disagree?)

Now debate aspire rear beam

Is the more ridged beam better for the track? I saw Charlie was talking about swapping one in tweak idk if it helped or hindered

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[Festiver]

Also debate Bg LCA swap or bf? Or just stick to single point mount

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[FestYboy]

Experience

More power... Above 100 HP.

[Sleeper]

I personally belive the B6T swap is the "best" engine choice.

BPT's are the better choice for ultimate power and that has been proven in drag times on this fourm, but the cons are much tighter fit, more complex swap. And as great as bpt power is the b6t is more managable power plant as a daily driver.

I also belive the b6t is the "best bang for the buck" swap wise.

Just a straight BP swap is the best value for simplicity... but you wont squeeze much more HP out of it... where as the b6t is very easy to get power gains with.

That's my personal opinion.

[Advancedynamix]

The ultimate build really depends on the end users goals.

If you want a reliable autocross or road track toy then a stock b6t on a g15mr with properly set up suspension will really deliver. If quarter mile times are your thing, a well tuned BPT with properly set up suspension and a set of wrinkle wall slicks.
If fuel mileage is your goal then upgrade to a zmde with the obd2 management and retain the FESTIVA 5 speed gear box. Run some tall and skinny tires like a 155/60-15 and lower The car 3 inches with properly tuned suspension and a good alignment.
If utility is your goal, a B8 swap on the stock gear box will turn your Festiva into a nice tow rig that still sips fuel and is reliable.
If I you want to win the Global Time attack world championship, I'd suggest a custom b6ze based engine built by dragonhealer on a g series or KIA Rio trans. Strip the car of everything not needed and dial in the suspension to soak up track imperfections with ease while rebounding reliably from apexes. Then spend a couple hundred thousand track miles learning how to drive it. Lol
If car shows are your thing, get a carb’d Festy and swap in a miata 1.6 with twin webers, shave the bay, have a nice custom header built and spend months getting the car to ride nicely while trimming the weeds. You can't be too low for show.
There definitely is not a one size fits all solution, but there are lots of great options.

[Sleeper]

^^^ Exactly! That's why i say the b6t is the best "allround" engine... it really depends on what your looking to do...

[Festiver]

My bad sorry guys forgot the topic I see the majority of people are looking to do a street friendly autox/ course car b6t is definitely the weapon of choice

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[Festiver]

If drag guys want a thread we can definitely do that too

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[Festiver]

The ultimate build really depends on the end users goals.

If you want a reliable autocross or road track toy then a stock b6t on a g15mr with properly set up suspension will really deliver. If quarter mile times are your thing, a well tuned BPT with properly set up suspension and a set of wrinkle wall slicks.
If fuel mileage is your goal then upgrade to a zmde with the obd2 management and retain the FESTIVA 5 speed gear box. Run some tall and skinny tires like a 155/60-15 and lower The car 3 inches with properly tuned suspension and a good alignment.
If utility is your goal, a B8 swap on the stock gear box will turn your Festiva into a nice tow rig that still sips fuel and is reliable.
If I you want to win the Global Time attack world championship, I'd suggest a custom b6ze based engine built by dragonhealer on a g series or KIA Rio trans. Strip the car of everything not needed and dial in the suspension to soak up track imperfections with ease while rebounding reliably from apexes. Then spend a couple hundred thousand track miles learning how to drive it. Lol
If car shows are your thing, get a carb’d Festy and swap in a miata 1.6 with twin webers, shave the bay, have a nice custom header built and spend months getting the car to ride nicely while trimming the weeds. You can't be too low for show.
There definitely is not a one size fits all solution, but there are lots of great options.

Sorry about that street car/ autox beast ok b6t g15mr say 220 hp? What about suspension anything like bf over Bg LCA festiva lca? Rio top hats are usual choice but didn't you make yours 3/4" lowering? Any benefit from that also you shortened your strut travel how? Cut and retap? Sorry for all the questions youre the festiva racing wizard lol and I don't know alot I'm trying though

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[Advancedynamix]

No worries. It's a good topic.

The problem with BF/BG control arms is that you are changing one of the best parts of a Festiva. The trailing link MacPherson strut is a very very good design.
That's like saying, “I want to swap my Porsche 911 suspension for 1982 VW rabbit parts because it looks stronger. Lol.
The trailing link design follows the road surface much better than a 3 point control arm. Some of the most iconic race cars in history have used this design, and it's a very functional part of the Festiva chassis.
For years I tuned MK1/2/3 VWs for road and rally racing. The Festiva out handles any VW I've ever built with ease. The the vw cars have a front suspension much like a BF or BG chassis Mazda.
It's no mistake that my cars use the original front suspension design with simple bolt on mods.

Also, to address the Aspire rear beam question. The Aspire beam mounts hang lower that the Festiva and don't allow as low of a ride height before the optimal beam angle is exceeded. I never did that mod on my cars because I like the feel of the stock beam and I'd prefer a lower ride height over a more rigid trailing beam.

[Advancedynamix]

Sorry about that street car/ autox beast ok b6t g15mr say 220 hp? What about suspension anything like bf over Bg LCA festiva lca? Rio top hats are usual choice but didn't you make yours 3/4" lowering? Any benefit from that also you shortened your strut travel how? Cut and retap? Sorry for all the questions youre the festiva racing wizard lol and I don't know alot I'm trying though

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The problem with making 220hp from a B6t that is easy to use is that it requires a totally different intake and exhaust manifold design. The USDM b6t intake manifold is topped out at about 190hp. It'll support more than that, but engine does weird things and is not user friendly. 180-190whp was the sweet spot when I was doing my testing. Though this doesn't seem like much, it'll chase down a zo6 corvette on a long straight. That's no slouch.
The JDM b6t is a much better design, but it uses the same sized throttle valve as the USDM manifold, and is only good for around 200whp.
The best way to make usable HP in a lightweight car is with extended RPM. A wider, smooth TQ curve will be easier to drive than an abrupt hit of TQ. To achieve this type of TQ curve in a b6t, you'll need a more efficient turbo, different cam profiles and matching intake and exhaust tuning.
This information was achieved through first hand expiramentation, it was verified with lap times and blown engines. A stock b6t with stock tune and a free flowing exhaust will be easier to drive than a modified engine. When you're sliding the car around a corner right next to other cars at over 100mph, you'll want the power to be consistent and smooth.
In short, a Festiva enthusiast who wants to have the ultimate track Festiva should keep things simple, and get the car on the track. Practice and sticky tires are much more effective than an extra 50hp.

[Festiver]

The problem with making 220hp from a B6t that is easy to use is that it requires a totally different intake and exhaust manifold design. The USDM b6t intake manifold is topped out at about 190hp. It'll support more than that, but engine does weird things and is not user friendly. 180-190whp was the sweet spot when I was doing my testing. Though this doesn't seem like much, it'll chase down a zo6 corvette on a long straight. That's no slouch.
The JDM b6t is a much better design, but it uses the same sized throttle valve as the USDM manifold, and is only good for around 200whp.
The best way to make usable HP in a lightweight car is with extended RPM. A wider, smooth TQ curve will be easier to drive than an abrupt hit of TQ. To achieve this type of TQ curve in a b6t, you'll need a more efficient turbo, different cam profiles and matching intake and exhaust tuning.
This information was achieved through first hand expiramentation, it was verified with lap times and blown engines. A stock b6t with stock tune and a free flowing exhaust will be easier to drive than a modified engine. When you're sliding the car around a corner right next to other cars at over 100mph, you'll want the power to be consistent and smooth.
In short, a Festiva enthusiast who wants to have the ultimate track Festiva should keep things simple, and get the car on the track. Practice and sticky tires are much more effective than an extra 50hp.

Lol you got a good point on the front suspension so how about trailing links for a sway bar delete? Yay or nay? You got a point how about doing a higher rpm build? Like some chromoly I beam rods and arp Cr bolts and the holy grail of engine balancing lol those mods plus a rpm limit increase would that be a better option vs more boost? Or is that bad idea too idk if the b6 will hold a good band that high while maintaining a decent low end and ok stock beam brake upgrade?

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[Advancedynamix]

The rod ratio is more of a problem than the strength of the rod. Look to the DOHC 1.3 in the Festiva GTX for your holy grail.
I have been toying with trailing links like what the Rio uses since my first build. The problem is getting the flex matched to the vehicle weight and TQ. The factory sway bar is pretty amazing, but it would probably be better if it wasn't connected in the middle.
The factory sway bar is an arc made of spring steel. It flexes under driving torque and allows these little cars to hook up like they do.
At 181hp, Tweak will still hook up in the rain under full throttle. This is amazing! 3 times the factory TQ rating and no TQ steer or traction issues.

[bhearts]

The problem with making 220hp from a B6t that is easy to use is that it requires a totally different intake and exhaust manifold design. The USDM b6t intake manifold is topped out at about 190hp. It'll support more than that, but engine does weird things and is not user friendly. 180-190whp was the sweet spot when I was doing my testing. Though this doesn't seem like much, it'll chase down a zo6 corvette on a long straight. That's no slouch.
The JDM b6t is a much better design, but it uses the same sized throttle valve as the USDM manifold, and is only good for around 200whp.
The best way to make usable HP in a lightweight car is with extended RPM. A wider, smooth TQ curve will be easier to drive than an abrupt hit of TQ. To achieve this type of TQ curve in a b6t, you'll need a more efficient turbo, different cam profiles and matching intake and exhaust tuning.
This information was achieved through first hand expiramentation, it was verified with lap times and blown engines. A stock b6t with stock tune and a free flowing exhaust will be easier to drive than a modified engine. When you're sliding the car around a corner right next to other cars at over 100mph, you'll want the power to be consistent and smooth.
In short, a Festiva enthusiast who wants to have the ultimate track Festiva should keep things simple, and get the car on the track. Practice and sticky tires are much more effective than an extra 50hp.

I was in process of getting my modified miata intake with intercooler welded up, but then one stormy nights morning Zeph and my tig welder said no more. It's currently en route to repair shop under 5 year warranty. That miata intake really is a piece of work. I've had at least 2 cut apart by now. The plenum is better than the bp vics mess to say the least.

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