has anyone used a generic MAF off of eBay? stuck axles + stripped hole crossmember

[Rick the Quick]

I'm in the process of swapping in the B6T in my '93 and I am wanting to take my time and do it right. Since it is my only car I was looking for a back up vehicle and what do I find? A '91 Festiva sitting in a yard that looks like it had been sitting for a long time. I knock on the door and a gal tells me she had a problem with the battery not staying charged so she bought another car. I offer her $200 and she accepts it. I go home and get the battery out of the '93 and install it in the '91. It fires right up. The only problem it has a major rod knock. I drive it the couple of miles home and now I have two Festivas needing engines and a nice 2016 Hyundai that I am renting for $150 a week. The next day I hear a local junk yard is having a going out of business sale. All engines are $250 and I find out he has 3 B6ME's. I go down and look at them and one stands out as being very clean even though it obviously was not pressure washed. It came out of a '95 Kia. I buy it for $250 and couldn't resist asking if he would sell me a second motor for $50. He said I could take any motor I wanted for another $100. I took a nice looking BP out of a Kia. I figure when I get #1 and #2 running I will have a BP for #3. Today I gave #2 a quick pressure wash in the gravel area near the driveway where I will pull the engine. As I start it to drive it the twenty feet or so, I could not resist putting the pedal to the metal. It ran for about 10 seconds when I heard a loud bang. I shut it off for a moment and to my surprise it started right up. It was actually quieter. I drive it over to the driveway and I noticed it's leaking lots of oil. I park it in the drive and walk back to the gravel area where I find a mangled connecting rod and what looks to be part of an oil scraper ring. Now I officially have 2 blown B3'S, a B6ME and a BP that are unknown and 1 known to be good B6T. I get to work pulling the B3 that I blowed up (a little New Mexico jargon) and am making good progress. At this point I still can't see a hole in the block or the pan. The last thing I do before unbolting the mounts is pull the axles. They were a bitch. I have the adapter that goes on a slide hammer. The one that goes behind the inner joint. The drivers side took a few minutes of hammering. The passenger side took more like a couple of hours (a little exaggeration) and is still not out. I also tried to split the axle at the inner joint. That would allow me to pull the engine and trans. and then reinstall everything including the axle with a new band on the inner boot. The only problem I can not get the inner joint separated. The only thing holding it together is the boot with the band around it, bothe the band and the boot were pulled back from the onner joint, yet I still can not seperate the axle from the joint. Tomorrow I will take a grinder with a cut-off wheel and cut the axle so I can pull the engine and trans. With the trans. out of the car I can probably get the inner joint free from the trans or I can use the E trans out of the '93. One other problem is that one of the bolts that holds the crossmember to the body is missing. It is on the drivers side /rear of the crossmember. I pulled one off of the "93 to get a look at the thread pitch and dimensions and to my surprise when I went to put it place of the missing bolt I find there is only a hole. No threads of any sort. It looks like there must have been a bolt welded on to the plate from the inside. I don't see any way to access this area as it looks like it is boxed in from the factory. It was getting dark so maybe I missed something. I think there is a possibility that if I pull the carpet back on the drivers side there may be access to the missing nut? I will look in the morning. One more thing is will this B6ME run with the stock Festiva ECU, MAF and distributor? Lots of opinions and speculations on here. I guess I will bolt it in and find out. Speaking of MAF's I don't want to relocate mine and I did see a guy on here that did a little bit of re-routing the intake ducting, allowing for the use of the MAF in the stock location. As for all the comments on here that say the stock MAF will not work with the B6ME, there may be that possibility. Looking on eBay for MAF's to fit a Kia I find that according to the application charts they (any given number) fit Festiva, Mazda and Kia. Anywhere from SOHC 1.3 to DOHC 1.8. Same on the distributors. I'll find out soon enough. I did notice the aftermarket MAF's look very compact. I wondering what the possibilities are of running one on the battery side with out moving the battery. That would allow for a more direct, straighter air flow. On the down side the after market units are probably Chinese made and I would imagine suffer from quality control issues at a fair rate. Any thoughts, opinions or better yet any actual experience with these units?

[Eaglefreek]

There is a circlip that holds the joint in. It's a small diameter wire and hard to see with all the grease. You have to get in there with a scribe or awl and try to find the end and then peel out the circlip. Blowed up is not just a New Mexico saying, I've heard it quite a few times here in the south.

[FestYboy]

You can use the b3 electronics to run the b6-me, it just won't run like a factory b6-me. There are several members here who run the second gen -me with the PVC intake tube setup.

As for the crossmember captured nut, you'll have to cut into the floor to get to it from the cabin side.

And for the axle, pull the outer joint from the knuckle and then lift everything out in one shot. No need for cutting the axle.

[Rick the Quick]

You can use the b3 electronics to run the b6-me, it just won't run like a factory b6-me. There are several members here who run the second gen -me with the PVC intake tube setup.

As for the crossmember captured nut, you'll have to cut into the floor to get to it from the cabin side.

And for the axle, pull the outer joint from the knuckle and then lift everything out in one shot. No need for cutting the axle.

Of course I have the outer joint out at the hub. The inboard joint does not want to come out. As for the circlip, there is none holding the axle to the cup that goes into the transmission. It is held on by the boot and band only. If you have an old axle laying around pry the boot off and you will see the axle is secured to the inner joint only by the boot/band, no circlip. And yes I know you can pound an axle out from the opposite side if necessary but limited access with the trans in the car makes it difficult, not to mention the risk of damaging the internals of the trans. Off to Lowes for a cut off wheel. Does anyone offhand know the part number for the output / axle seal on the E transmission?

[william]

I assume that b6 will run just fine with all b3 stuff . Guys are running b6ds on festiva electronics . So why not?
I think you could even run the bp on stock stuff with a fuel pressure bump . But I've never Tryed.
The tripod type are (drivers side) but tge ball type (passenger side ) are indeed held in by a wire clip trust me.

[Dragonhealer]

Rick, your junkyard score is epic !
I took FestYboy's advice and drop out the whole drive line out the bottom axles, subframe and all. Much easier to get to the axles that way too.

[FestYboy]

Of course I have the outer joint out at the hub. The inboard joint does not want to come out. As for the circlip, there is none holding the axle to the cup that goes into the transmission. It is held on by the boot and band only. If you have an old axle laying around pry the boot off and you will see the axle is secured to the inner joint only by the boot/band, no circlip. And yes I know you can pound an axle out from the opposite side if necessary but limited access with the trans in the car makes it difficult, not to mention the risk of damaging the internals of the trans. Off to Lowes for a cut off wheel. Does anyone offhand know the part number for the output / axle seal on the E transmission?

I'm confused then, if the boot is off the tri-pot cup, what's keeping the tri-pot from falling out?

[Eaglefreek]

My driver's side CV is stuck in my transmission. I had to pull the engine out and took the CV apart. I'm pretty sure mine had a circlip or snap ring holding it in. But maybe I'm confusing it with my Isuzu Trooper as seen here.

https://youtu.be/rPvpAFSU4TE?t=115

[rickbz28]

The circlip everyone is referring to is on the end of the inner cv joint inside of the transmission.You can't see it with the joint in the trans. Go to AutoZone and in their loan a tool program they have a slide hammer axle puller that has a fork that goes between the joint and the trans case.That usuallly works to get the stubborn shaft out for me. The part numbers are slide hammer-27033 and the FWD axle puller adapter-27058.You can see pics on autozone.com .

[bhazard]

Universal MAF? I'm gonna go ahead and say stay away from such things.

[FestYboy]

My driver's side CV is stuck in my transmission. I had to pull the engine out and took the CV apart. I'm pretty sure mine had a circlip or snap ring holding it in. But maybe I'm confusing it with my Isuzu Trooper as seen here.
https://youtu.be/rPvpAFSU4TE?t=115

Ok, I have yet to run into that retention system on a tri-pot. Though now I see that it exists, I prefer that. I've seen too many tri-pots pulled out of the cups by inexperienced mechanics.

[Eaglefreek]

The circlip everyone is referring to is on the end of the inner cv joint inside of the transmission..

That's not the one I'm referring to. But as mentioned, my feeble mind could be confusing it with my Isuzu.

[Rick the Quick]

Thanks for all your help. When I encountered trouble removing the passenger side axle I looked at the old axles that were out of the '93. They had the ball type inners with no circlips holding the axle to the inner joint, just the boot/band. The tri-pot (tri-pod?) type is what is on the '91 that I am working on and it does have a thin easily removed circlip that holds the axle to the inner joint. With the axle free from the hub removing the band from the boot and pushing the boot back from the joint does (Thank you Eaglefreek and William) reveal the circlip under lots of grease BTW. Pry the circlip off and now you can remove the axle while leaving the stubborn inner joint in the transmission. One more observation : when putting the transmission back onto the engine the inner joint that was left in the transmission will catch on the metal plate that goes between the engine and transmission. I'm talking about the piece that goes under the flywheel that seals the clutch/flywheel from the elements. I used a cut off wheel and trimmed a little from this plate and it allowed the inner joint to clear it. And BTW aligning the transmission (stabbing) to the engine was a real PIA. I ended up using some long 12 mm bolts and cutting the heads off. I threaded 3 into the engine and used them to guide the transmission on squarely. Even using this method it was tricky. I almost resorted to grinding a steeper taper on the input shaft. Now I need to repair the Missing caged nut for the subframe/crossmember (thank you Festboy) then put it all back in and see what happens. Looks like a sensor or two on the B6ME will not connect to the B3 harness. The B6ME came out of am automatic car. I will post pictures soon. Actually I went to post pictures a few days ago and have not been able to get back on the Forum since, until now of course.

[william]

Your welcome and with the backing plate I always trim mine as well. I used tin snips in the past as well as a grinder. For alinement of the engine it's kind of a pain but pushing on the back of the transmission with my foot helps with the steep angle of the input shaft.
Glad you got it in there ,post up how you got to that captured nut when you get it. I'm curious.

[Rick the Quick]

Fixing the captured nut was easy. From inside the car I pulled back the carpet on the drivers side foot well. From below I drilled straight up through the hole in the cross member. You will be drilling into an angled surface. Its where the firewall makes its transition into the floor board. After I drilled the hole I took a tapered punch and a hammer and pushed the punch securely into the hole. Back inside I found the punch coming through the floor behind the brake / clutch pedals. I used a hole saw (2"?) to open up the hole and right there, easily accessible was the cross member hole. Could not have been easier. As for installing the engine/trans. they went in easily. Unfortunately the intake of the B6ME is touching the firewall. I couldn't imagine making the BP fit. As I mentioned, I bought a B6ME and a BP at a junkyard having a going out of business sale. when the two engines were side by side the B6ME was dwarfed by the BP. Time to yank 'er out and get the hammer. BTW this '91 was in a minor front end collision at one time and some of the dimensions may be off. I would post pictures, however trying to attach them directly from my computer causes the red exclamation point to come up when I hit "download files". At that point I can not access the Forum for 24-48 hours. It happened twice now. Time for me to figure out how to use my Photobucket account to post pictures.