Oil in VAF Tube

[milehighbear]

Ok, I was replacing the 02 sensor in new 92 I bought and when I took the rubber flex tube off the MAF it had oil in it. I can only speculate that its coming from the throttle body but where would it leak into there. Any thoughts.

[TorqueEffect]

If I am not mistaken, this is from excessive blow-by caused by worn piston rings, and the only place that make physical sense to me as to where it comes from is the valve cover vent.

[shorestiva]

Plugged pcv valve/system can also cause this.

[milehighbear]

I checked the pcv valve and it is good. The grommet is new so its been changed.

[ryanprins13]

Comes through the vent on the valve cover that goes to the intake tubing

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[milehighbear]

TY all, I will check the tube. Im going to do a good clean out of engine and get sludge out and then change the valve cover gasket also.

[ryanprins13]

TY all, I will check the tube. Im going to do a good clean out of engine and get sludge out and then change the valve cover gasket also.

How do you plan to clean it? I noticed on the weekend i have a lot of varnish buildup in mine but havent thought of a safe way to clean it yet.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[milehighbear]

I went to Walmart and they have cleaner, Gunk engine Oil Cleaner, that you put in with oil and run car for about 5-10 minutes idleing. Then you change oil. I will then add a quart of lucas , Stop Oil Leaks, and try that. I've used the Gunk engine oil cleaner before and it works pretty good. On my 93 I cleaned its engine using Sea Foam. I add bottle and run the engine for about 10 minutes and drain oil and add oil. I then put in 8 oz's with new oil and leave it till next oil change. This took longer to clean motor but it does work. Everytime you change oil put 8oz of seafoam in. Gunk cleaner works faster and also cleans slime and gunk out of your oil pump pretty good. Or you can do like we did in old days. Put a quart of diesel fuel in and let it run for about 10-15 minutes and let it set for abut hour and then change oil and filter. This actually works great but I don't like the smell of diesel much. Let us know how you end up doing it and how it works. Im going to change my valve cover gasket first before I do any of these cause it leaks pretty bad and I don't want bad stuff leaking out onto engine and parts.

[firebush357]

I just put in a quart of ATF and let it idle for about 10-15 minutes before an oil change. It made my Valve tick almost go away and seemed to clean everything out pretty well.

[milehighbear]

Cool, ill keep that in mind. I also talked with another person on FordFestiva.com and he told me about a catch can which seems might just take care of my problem after I clean engine out. In my 93 I have been using seafoam and it worked good and took the ticking away from that motor. TY all for your input. Will let you know about the catch can and how it works.

[ryanprins13]

I see, im a bit scared of the oil flush products, would have to read more about them. I may try the atf though.
Why the lucas and stop leak? Are you burning oil as well as blowing it out? The cleaner may free up a stuck ring or something and lessen your blowby. I think a 15w40 or 50 motor oil would be just as good as lucas or stop leak and way cheaper. Thats all they really are anyway.
If your just blowing out oil and leaking it out seals and not so much burning it then hook your catch can drain back to the pan and recycle your blow by oil

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[milehighbear]

Yes it is smoking a little. I've used the gunk flush couple times on other vehicles and it works like the ATF does. I may try the heavier oil if the oil flush turns out good. I may try the flush first before I change the gasket so I can see how it looks after I use flush. If it doesn't do job, I will put new gasket and cover on and then try the ATF. I can only try Thanks for info.

[milehighbear]

Has anyone else ever used the Gunk engine flush and or the lucas oil stop leak in their engines. Just curious.

[firebush357]

Has anyone else ever used the Gunk engine flush and or the lucas oil stop leak in their engines. Just curious.

I used Motor Medic when I first got my Festiva but it didn't seem to do as much as the ATF. I have used a couple different Stop Leak products for my Nissan that burns a good bit of oil and it didn't seem to help at all. It might help with Seals that are leaking but it doesn't seem to do much for blowing past the rings. Like stated above I just run a 15w40 now because I had leftover from my F250 and it seems to work just as well.

[Rick the Quick]

I would be careful with any so called engine flush or engine cleaner product. If your engine is full of sludge you stand a good chance of plugging the screen on the oil pump pick up tube. In my opinion the best way to clean 'er up is to run it hard, in other words get it up to operating temperature and keep it there as often as possible. Keep on changing your oil and filter on a pretty regular basis, maybe every 2,000 -2,500 miles. Use a good quality dinosaur oil and a good Ford, Mazda or Wix filter. Short trip driving and also lack of maintenance were the contributing factors to the sludge build up. You may also want to check your thermostat to make sure it is the correct Mazda type and also verify that it is working properly. If the engine is in decent mechanical condition there should be a point where the oil begins to stay clean for longer periods. On the flipside these are old cars and sometimes there is no magic wand that will restore the engine back to it's original condition. As for Lucas stop leak, if your leaks are bad enough the only thing that will work is replacing the offending gaskets and seals. Then again the Lucas product may swell a hardened seal just enough to make it seal again. Keep in mind it may also swell all the seals to the point that they will all leak. Rear main seals are a big job not to mention when they leak they can render the car inoperable. If you keep driving with a main seal leak it definitely will be inoperable when you blow all 4 quarts out and blow 'er up. In my opinion if she's not blowing huge blue smoke clouds out the tail pipe and the oil light does not come on while you are driving just keep driving it. Valve cover gaskets are easy to replace, bad rings and worn valve guides are not. My '88 could go 3,000 miles and not consume any oil. My '93 could not go 300 miles without using a quart of oil. Putting in a quart of oil a week is not my preference but when you think about it when you take the 35-40 MPG into consideration it still makes for an economical car to drive. As long as you keep oil and water levels up the 1.3's can still go a lot of miles with a less then ideal mechanical condition. I would not have been afraid to drive the '93 across country, fortunately I didn't have to. When the 1.3 engine is too tired she will let you know and at that time do as I am and swap in any of the 1.6 variants in. Now would be a good time to start looking. When you need to find one at a moments notice it's tough.... Good luck!
:tm: