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Early B6 Oil Pan Issues/Leaks/Gaskets/Bolts

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  • Early B6 Oil Pan Issues/Leaks/Gaskets/Bolts

    Hey friends. I know it's not wholly relevant to the B3 necessarily, but I'm curious to know whether there might be common ground between an issue I'm having with my 323. The original oil pan gasket is evidently still hanging in there, but had considerable leak/drip problems from multiple corners. I was successfully able to remove the 16 or so standard M6x1.25 10mm head bolts that keep it in place... on 3 of the sides that don't overlap/touch/mesh with the transmission. An oil buildup near the exhaust manifold was mysteriously solved by redoing the exhaust manifold gasket as well - some of those bolts were very lightly torqued... anyway, my particular B6 is mated to a three-speed automatic. There seem to be two nuts/bolts (maybe more) that are discretely tucked in where the oil pan meets the transmission, and it was literally impossible to figure out how a wrench or socket might be able to actually get a grip on it... and needle-nose pliers/vice grips accomplished nothing at all.

    With the 16 standard bolts, the oil pan did sag an inch or two - enough to get some oil-resistant high temp RTV on there, the original gasket cleaned/trimmed, and the new valley insert on the water pump side replaced. I torqued all those to the proper spec, let the RTV bond, and it seems to have seriously improved the oil pressure within the system. However, it only managed to alleviate 3/4 of the leaks I was experiencing... and now the one from the transmission side is prohibitively strong, preventing me from even moving/starting the car without a drip tray underneath. Though there's certainly a chance the oil level is slightly overfilled, the sagging of the pan tells me that there's probably a bow/bend on that as-of-yet impossible to reach side.

    I'm wondering if anybody's encountered and solved anything similar in their Mazda/Ford-ventures over the past couple of decades. Some pointers would be most appreciated, because I'm exceedingly frustrated with this problem to the point where I'm just biking and walking everywhere. Thanks much for the help/support!
    1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

  • #2
    Yeah, the two last ones have to come off too, AND the early engines gasketed the rear main seal carrier to the block, these leak! When you reseal the rear seal carrier, use Ultra grey or some other RTV silicone like the later engines.
    No car too fast !

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    • #3
      Fair enough! How on earth do you get to them though without bending/breaking something?
      1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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      • #4
        Um..... the trans has to come off I think
        Please get confirmation first from someone who has done this recently.
        If it is the seal carrier as I suspect, the trans, clutch and flywheel will have to come off.
        And to be clear on the seal carrier, No gasket, just sealant.
        Last edited by Dragonhealer; 05-04-2017, 08:59 PM.
        No car too fast !

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        • #5
          Remove the dust plate from the trans, then use a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket and extension to remove the 2 nuts.
          Trees aren't kind to me...

          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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          • #6
            Gonna finally get around to getting this fixed over the weekend, I think. The vehicle's parked across town... how is that dust cover secured? Have a brand new oil pan, gasket, and some RTV ready to rock and roll. Hopefully it's pretty straight forward - will get some aforementioned sealant too. Wish I still had the PDF service manual...
            1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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            • #7
              10mm bolts, and it slips out to give access to the torque converter bolts. The pan nuts are just behind it.
              Trees aren't kind to me...

              currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
              94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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              • #8
                Perfect - thanks much. I'll bring a headlamp or flashlight in case I can't find it. Must have missed those last time.
                1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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                • #9
                  Sure enough, the transmission side half-pipe/lip is severely bent. Even one of the 10mm studs was bent... this was 100% the cause of the leak. Clearly I wasn't the first person to struggle with those bolts. Removing the transmission shield wasn't too bad - there was just so much grime and oil build-up, that I didn't see all of the bolts. As soon as it came off, there was a pool of oil and it was coating basically everything. What little integrity was left of the gasket clearly was causing issues. New pan has yet to go in, but I'm excited to have this part of the car's troubles buttoned up next weekend!
                  1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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